1972 Duster, 340/4, black on black (the endgame)

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Had a break this week from making guitars so I got some progress going on here. Front clip & rallye dash frame, blasted:
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Other than some surface spotting on the outside, those Valiant parts have no rust issues whatsoever :thumbsup: Nice & clean.

Can't say the same for the dash frame...:

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Being out of a '68 Barracuda I have to fill the lower dash pad holes anyway so I'll fill the rust holes and pits as well. It's an interior part so I won't have issues with it being exposed to the elements. And it seems I need to find an ashtray from a '67 or a '69 as this one only fits with the lower dash pad on, and the Duster one doesn't fit at all.

Things are moving along again. I'll need to get myself one of those nice little household welders to cover the ignition switch hole and the side marker light holes on the fenders and I have a line on a glovebox trim piece for a Duster rallye dash so I shouldn't have to wreck the Barracuda part. Meanwhile, I still have some filler work to do to the fenders and there's still the hood to deal with.

Ken
 
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Slugging it out with the bondo work. The left fender is in real nice shape for 47 year old steel. My own-very-own welder is supposed to be here Wednesday so I can cover the side marker light openings and fill the Valiant emblem holes:

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The right one, on the other hand...:

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I still need to close up the ignition switch opening on the dash but the rest of it cleaned up pretty well. Of course, the dash cluster needs a lot of work. I'll delete the flasher switch opening-I had considered modifying it for a fog light switch location but I think I'll forego fog lights. And I scored the glove box trim piece as well so I don't have to wreck the original Barracuda piece:

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The plan is to go with wood grain inserts on the top half, and since the dash is black I'll go with silver on the bottom. I'm also planning to do away with the thumbwheel radio. A PO did a hack job fitting it in this dash and I'll need a little more than AM radio in this car anyway-it's a driver, not a concours show car. And with my own-very-own welder I can weld in some support brackets to the back of the dash so the install won't be a cobbled up mess.

Off to slug it out with that right fender.

Ken
 
Looking fantastic! I cant wait to see more updates. That will be one awesome car when you are done with it. Glad you saved it. I bet Bob would like to see it now!
 
Bob's a motor guy. He doesn't really care what the car looks like so long as it has a 600HP motor in it. And since that's his thing, it's hard to bash him for it. Still, I think he'll be pleasantly surprised to see this when it's done.

Welder came Wednesday and I went on a sidetrip Saturday and made a little cart for it. Follows me around quite nicely and everything welder related fits in the bottom:

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I was picking up wheels and casters and the little bits to make it at Lowes, where I found these welders on the shelf for a whopping $ 0.27 more than I paid for this one shipped...

So with that done, the welding is done:

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The air grinder I have can't keep up with grinding welds so I'll pick up a cheap electric one to knock these out. And I'll still have to cut the correct holes for side marker lights. I have an OEM fender for a '73-'76 Duster/Dart Sport that I can use for a template, since it isn't doing me any good any other way.

Ken
 
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The last step that was holding up filler work on the dash was the stereo. As I mentioned, I had no intentions of using the Barracuda thumbwheel AM radio in this since it's a daily driver and I'll need more than that. And since someone trashed the dash to make the AM radio fit, the place to start was the plastic dash panel.

I picked up a 1/8" sheet of styrene to fill the void:

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Then to figure out how much damage I was going to repair:
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Then I had to get the stereo. I went with a Sony that has the jack for my mp3 player and SirriusXM. With that dry fitted I determined what needed to be filled and glued the pieces in with JB Weld:

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I also embedded a wire across the bottom to give some really brittle plastic some strength.

With this done I was able to make some brackets, fit the stereo and weld the brackets to the steel frame:

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And with that done the filler work finished right up:

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Now back to the fenders.

Ken
 
Got the filler work on the worst of the 2 fenders done so I took a break from sanding bondo today to do some welding. Since I beefed up the shell with US Car Tool subframe connectors, I thought I might as well beef up the front end while I was at it:

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Both sides are done. The big bracket fit different on the other side-don't know if that was an anomaly with the parts or if the front subframe is still tweaked. It wasn't bad, so I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. Of course I'll have to repaint the engine compartment, but since the overall repaint will be basecoat/clearcoat I've been leaning toward repainting it anyway.

Nice to have this done.

Ken
 
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Got the filler work on the worst of the 2 fenders done so I took a break from sanding bondo today to do some welding. Since I beefed up the shell with US Car Tool subframe connectors, I thought I might as well beef up the front end while I was at it:

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Both sides are done. The big bracket fit different on the other side-don't know if that was an anomaly with the parts or if the front subframe is still tweaked. It wasn't bad, so I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. Of course I'll have to repaint the engine compartment, but since the overall repaint will be basecoat/clearcoat I've been leaning toward repainting it anyway.

Nice to have this done.

Ken
Thanks for the update! Keep the pics coming!
 
Long overdue update here. Been working on it; just haven't been talking about it.

Fenders primed (Featherfill), tail light panel reprimed:

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Cut down the original ashtray to fit in the '68 Barracuda dash:

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Finished the rear axle. Replaced the carrier gasket and bolted it in and replaced the axles with a pair of custom Dutchman's. All sealed, lubed and ready to go. Still need leaf springs & shocks but it rolls a lot easier now:
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Found a replacement K Frame on ebay, so the front suspension is done. New tie rod & ball joints, idler & Pitman arm, torsion bars, control arm bushings and sway bar mounts:

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Also rebuilt the left door hinges so it's nice and tight now:

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More bushings for the right door should be along next week. I'll prime the hood and dash tomorrow. Then I'll focus on getting the dash painted and in the car. It'll be one more piece I won't have to kick around.

Then, wetsanding...:BangHead:
 
Hood, dash and bumper filler primed. No damage on the filler but I wanted to get a coating on it to offer some protection from the elements:

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(fade to black...)
 
Nice work! Cars lookin good! 72 is definitely the best year of the Duster! I, like you, fell in love with the 72s because of the tail panel.

Btw, pictures in post #54 still aren’t showing up.
 
Nice work! Cars lookin good! 72 is definitely the best year of the Duster! I, like you, fell in love with the 72s because of the tail panel.

Btw, pictures in post #54 still aren’t showing up.

Yeah, editing the thread got a little buggy right about then. Got it figured out now.
 
I didn't know the "340" went below the body line like that.

Dry fitting sheet metal:

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Not happy with the hood gap. The doors are as far back as they can go and so are the fenders, because if they're not the fenders stick out past the hood on the front. The hood gap is better than 3/8" and I was hoping for something shy of 1/4". But. Other than the straps that hold the lower fender fronts to the bumper mounts (buried in a box in the trunk) everything is bolted down tight and the width of the rest of the gaps is pretty acceptable.

When the time comes I'll start blocking these out while they're on the car.That will catch any anomalies where the fenders meet the hood and doors. I haven't noted much yet but it would be foolish not to when I have the chance. Meanwhile, I'm looking at reconditioning the tail lights and grill.
 
Gibson Brands is shut down this week for End Of Fiscal Year Inventory & Plant Maintenance so I get a few days of relatively uninterrupted work on the Duster. Monday was about moving out the last of the trash the previous owners left in the workshop and while I was making trips to the dump ("Waste Management" they call it these days) I dropped the front wheels off at the tire shop for new rubber. Nice to see all 4 wheels back on the car:

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Restored the taillights. That left one is trash but since they're getting scarce, I'll run with it until I find a better one:

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Got the shifter linkage straightened out, sized for this shifter and working. Still need the proper clips, but not right now:
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Dash & valance are blocked out and ready for final prime. The valance was bent but the worst of it was under the front bumper. Hard to tell, but it did make the openings a bit wonky so I straightened it out:

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And started sanding down the shell. Started with the taillight panel. Again...:BangHead:

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Those high spots are pretty minor. I really don't want to pound on this panel with a hammer any more and the white vinyl will hide them anyway.

Doctor's appointment for myself tomorrow and Little Dog on Friday but we're expecting 10-16" of snow here by Friday noon so since I'll be camped out for the weekend it's probably time to start sanding the rest of the shell for repaint. Still haven't found a place to spray paint but the longer I look at it, the more I find to fine tune. Not unusual for a black car, I suppose.

Ken
 
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Back to the grind-started final sanding with the trunk lid today 'cause I thought it would have the fewest issues and it's pretty easy to get at. Blocked out with 180 and finish sanded with 500. A bit of a high spot up by the back glass but since I never noticed it under the glossy black paint I'm not going to sweat it. Life's short-I want this thing done.

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BAM!!!

Found a motor...



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Blurry photo of a 7*10*69 340-4. Stamp on the front says FW340P 3006 0193. 3006=Monday, 20 October 1969. Everything but cam & lifters, intake, carb, windage tray and the sleeve for the dip stick. And the best part?

STANDARD BORE!

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A real live, honest-to-god unmolested 1970 340.

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Story goes, it was in a '70 Duster that the original owner wrecked. Before he sent it to the scrapyard the guy I bought this from pulled the motor for a project Challenger he wanted to build. Now that he's retired and working on '67 Chevelle and '72 Camaro projects he's passed on starting a Challenger project and let this go. On Craigslist. Not 20 minutes from where I work in Bozeman.

Original valve covers. Original air cleaner. Pilot bushing in the crank so that '70 Duster had a stick. I don't think I could've found a better starting point for a 340 build for this car if I had stole it from a museum. STANDARD BORE!!! There is NO ridge in those cylinders :thumbsup: If there's a downside to it the heads are 1.88s (edit-nope, they're 2.02). But 2.02 heads are a helluva lot easier to find than a low mileage '70 340-IF I care to go that way.


Thirty five years later and after dragging this car to everywhere I lived in Wisconsin, out to NoCal and here to Montana the Duster finally has a motor. I gotta go back downstairs and look at it again...
 
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Patience of a saint... Or so all the women have told me over the years just before they conveniently disappeared after I dumped the woman they were talking about.

:wtf:
 
There. Now don't PUSH ON IT!

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Wow just finished reading this thread, awesome story and workmanship.

I know what you mean when it comes to the tail panel, definitely an area susceptible to damage. I have had many occasions where I have had to remind people to not push on it while jockeying my 72 around. This especially with the tow service drivers.
 
Believe me-I'm grateful to have it. I have the Duster and the Harley as active projects right now and since we're shutting down for 4th of July week to do inventory I'll spend that long weekend replacing the sound system in the Lexus. And I'll have plenty of room.

As I posted earlier I have been working on the Duster, just not posting boring updates about wetsanding. And there have been other projects going on so the wetsanding isn't going quickly. Quite honestly I've burned out on body work but I know eventually I'll have to slug it out and get it done. Moreso now that I finally have a motor-which is strapped down in the back of the truck and ready to go to the machine shop next week.

But I haven't just been wetsanding and while Gibson Brands was shut down for the month of April I took advantage of the opportunity to tackle the dash cluster. When we last saw the dash I was prepping the frame for paint (wetsanding...). I decided to take the time to get the gauge cluster ready. It was my intent to simply send it out for rechrome, but... I contacted a place to get it done and he couldn't do it. The repair I did on the section under the radio opening would've dissolved out when he soaked it for his prep procedure so I had to look for an alternative. I found commercially available spray paints unsatisfactory-they looked like paint, to put it plainly. However, I am a scale modeler and one of the tools I have in that toolbox is Alclad II, Bright Chrome. I used it to repaint some wheels for an old Revell '57 Nomad and while the build itself is giving me fits the wheels look great.

So I went that route with this.

I started with cleanup. I put the plastic in the tub and wetsanded it through the stages finishing with 1500 grit.

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Next was to redo the flat black inside the bezel openings. Here I went with some flat black spraypaint I had kicking around:

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Note I also removed the flasher switch from the '68 Barracuda part. This was followed by a top coat of Krylon flat clear.

While I was waiting for this to dry for masking I dealt with the little bits. I polished the lenses with a Dremel and some 3M Finishing Compound. Big difference:

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I also flipped the plastic cluster over and sprayed the backside with some of the "experiment" chrome, just to brighten things up back there:

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I also took care of the retaining rings for the lenses:

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Once the rest was ready and masked I sprayed everything that was to be chrome with gloss black. This is the part of the step that you cannot be low budget with. The black gives the chrome depth and one of the biggest issues with Alclad is when people use a cheap base. If it doesn't dry properly or thoroughly it will crack over time. Here we are in gloss black:

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After plenty of dry time (2 or 3 days as I recall), I hit it with the Bright Chrome. Another issue is users who spray too much on. There's a tipping point with this stuff where it turns from chrome into silver paint. The first coat was a transparent mist, and while spraying the second coat you can see it turn to chrome:

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Alclad II is around $8/1 oz. bottle and I only used about half the bottle on this. Considering my options under the circumstances I think this was about the best way to get it done.

Next was the gauge cluster itself. I was surfing ebay one day when I found yet another dash. The plastic was hammered but the gauges themselves were nice and clean, and the speedometer had the trip meter on it. When it showed up I used the best of both clusters and put one together. The other bonus-the "new" cluster had the Performance Indicator in it which is selling on the 'bay for about what I paid for the whole cluster:

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I resprayed the inside of the metal frame gloss white and while I was at it, I replaced the hi beam lens with blue gels leftover from my stage lighting days. All the rest of the colored lenses got cleaned up before they went back in there. I also broke out the flat black model paint, thinned it and painted inside the heater controls and the lights/wiper controls. Get it thin enough and capillary action fills in around the letters.

I also picked up the insert set from DMT. I went with black on the bottom instead of silver, just to make the chromed plastic pop a little more. I made the mistake of ordering the set for the Duster, which doesn't have the opening for the lighter to the right of the radio. I plan to use that as a USB charging port which is on it's way right now from the bay:
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I have since replaced the offending trim piece with one that's correct for a Barracuda. And of course I had to cut that part up for the stereo opening.

Which has become the new bug-a-boo. The CD player I was going to put in this is now slated to go in the Lexus. Over the winter I found a Mini-Disc player for this car which is what I wanted to begin with. However, the front drops down to replace the disc and when it's mounted the front doesn't drop nearly enough. The plastic dash under the stereo is stopping it. The CD player was set up centered in the opening and I'll have to redo the mounts I made so it'll be as high as possible and a bit further out.

I glued the wood grain parts and the black above the steering column today. Still mulling over a way to have the rest of the black parts in place and still be able to get to the mounting screws...
 
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