1972 Plymouth Valiant 4 door Auto Slant 6

[ESMSpartanGarage]

The manifold I now have doesn’t have it.

So am I screwed? I put a reman carb on!

 

[MDchanic]

The manifold I now have doesn’t have it.

So am I screwed? I put a reman carb on!

So you're saying that the circled part is missing from your manifold?

You could get this electric choke kit from eBay, but it requires the screw holes in the manifold to fasten it, if not the actual well.

Or do you mean something else?


Why did you put on a reman carb.? What was wrong with the old one?

You didn't send the old one back, did you?


– Eric

 

[ESMSpartanGarage]

I could swear on my old manifold that was OPEN. I have that fitting and the other stuff that was in that hole was rotted out.

I thought the carb was a potential issue. The old one has a core charge but I have NOT sent yet.

 

[MDchanic]

I could swear on my old manifold that was OPEN.

Shouldn't be. It's just a cast-in bowl.

I have that fitting and the other stuff that was in that hole was rotted out.

So you need the proper choke spring assembly. They vary by year, so make sure you get the right one. Or get the electric choke linked above.

I thought the carb was a potential issue. The old one has a core charge but I have NOT sent yet.

The carb is always a potential issue, and a carb that hasn't been run since 1985 definitely needs a rebuild, but a rebuild kit is a lot cheaper than buying a new carburetor, and if you rebuild it yourself, you know it's done right.

If the carb that was on it is original, then you should keep it because it is set up correctly for your engine. If you install a rebuilt carb, you are essentially guaranteeing that there will be at least one thing wrong with it, as they are assembled from bins of used parts, with minimal tolerances and standards.

The original carburetor should have a little stamped aluminum tag on one airhorn screw with a number, and that number should correspond to the appropriate number in the service or parts manual.

– Eric

 

[RustyRatRod]

I could swear on my old manifold that was OPEN. I have that fitting and the other stuff that was in that hole was rotted out.

I thought the carb was a potential issue. The old one has a core charge but I have NOT sent yet.

Some of the early 70s model choke stoves WERE open to the exhaust. @slantsixdan was just confirming this recently. Just use an appropriate choke stove for that recess and your choke will work fine.

 

[slantsixdan]

I could swear on my old manifold that was OPEN.

The '70-'72 exhaust manifolds did have an open hole at the top of the choke tower on № 5 runner. That setup is problematic (exhaust leaks from a no-longer-available gasket, etc). All the new manifolds have the '73-up style of cast-in pocket at the top of the choke tower. Put on a № 1231 electric choke kit and you'll be all set with a better-than-factory, fully-adjustable choke.

Wise of you not to send in your original carb as a core; "remanufactured" carburetors are notoriously bad, but there's not much in the way of viable alternatives any more, so you're kind of stuck hoping and praying…and holding onto the original carburetor in case you will have to send it to someone qualified (such as Jon Hargrove at The Carburetor Shop) for a full refurbishment—the kind that goes well beyond what you can do at home with a carb kit.

 

[MDchanic]

Shouldn't be. It's just a cast-in bowl.

Wow. I wasn't aware that they had two years of a giant open exhaust leak closed by a flimsy piece of sheetmetal that is pretty much guaranteed to rust away – sounds like a "Better Idea™" worthy of Dearborn.

Sorry for telling you the wrong thing.

– Eric