1973 Dart 340 Sport Project

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Finally fired up the engine! Nothing like that to get your interest in the project back up where it needs to be. Started up right away, ran it for 30 minutes at 2500 - 3000 RPMs per the Comp Cam break in instructions. Sounded really good. Had a short video but can't figure out how to post it. The Dakota Digital fan controller worked flawlessly, temp got to a max of 205. Fans cycled on and off just as programmed.
After the break in I went to my machine shop guy, George at CAMS Racing Engines here in Gloucester. Planned on getting some more Brad Penn break in oil and the Comp Cams additive and doing an oil change. Probably get varying comments on this part. George suggested no oil change yet. He asked how long it would be before I drove the car, I told him 4-6 months. He said before I change the oil, I should get the car up on jack stands several times and run it, going through the gears, to get some load on the engine. I've always heard to change the oil after the initial break in but he says the break in will be more successful with a load on the engine after the initial start up. He builds many late model engines, hot street engines, plus every Monster Truck engine so he knows his stuff. I'll follow his instructions.
 
I bought the Summit Racing exhaust kit. Pretty straight forward except for the area from headers to past the trans. Since I'm running Schumacher tri-y headers with ball socket collectors, the 200-4R trans, and a custom crossmember, I had to cut and weld 4 exhaust joints to get the clearance I needed. Photo shows part of the custom crossmember and what I did to get the pipe to clear. The Summit exhaust sounds pretty decent, and the Comp Cams solid lifters add some good sounds, too.
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A couple of pics of the Summit dual exhaust kit. Since I had to customise the front end, as mentioned above, I started from the rear and worked forward. This is a nice kit, but installation is a pain if you're working alone. Could have saved a bunch of rework if I'd built the trans cross member with the allowance for exhaust clearance built in.

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Installed the Cal-tracs a couple weeks ago. A high quality piece. Installation was straight forward and they give you
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easy to follow directions.
 
Since the car was on blocks and engine final installed, figured I'd double check the pinion angle. Good thing. The rear is 5 degrees up and the trans is 3 degrees down. What tees me off is that I had to relocate the spring perches 1/2 inch inboard, last year, to account for the spring relocation kit. To do that, I put the rear end on my work table, leveled the spring perches, cut them off, moved them, and rewelded them. I took my measurements and marked the housing to be sure I did not change the original angle of the perches. Don't know if they were originally 5 degrees up or what. But what it means is now I have to relocate them again. A real pain in the *** since everything, including the rear sway bar, is installed.
 
Just completed the installation of the Summit dual exhaust kit. I won't be adding the stock exhaust tips until all body / paint is done and the bumpers are back in place. thought I'd post a sound bite.
 
supertruck said:
Just completed the installation of the Summit dual exhaust kit. I won't be adding the stock exhaust tips until all body / paint is done and the bumpers are back in place. thought I'd post a sound bite.
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You're winning Bill.... Sounds good....

How did you like the quality of the kit? 2.5"?

JW
 
Quality was top notch, especially compared to the prices of some other kits. All the hangers came with the kit, plus illustrated directions, and each piece is marked for location. If not for the 200-4R and the Schumacher headers, it would have fit with no problems at all. I went with the 2.5" pipes. A tight fit between the rear rails and gas tank, but still cleared enough that I won't have rattle issues.
 
Pulled the rear end out today to cut and replace my spring perches to get the pinion angle where it needs it be. Took 45 minutes to get the rear end out and dropped down, including the sway bar and Cal Tracs. Took another 60 minutes to get the E-brake cables out, and had to just about disassemble the drum brakes to do it. There's gotta be a quick way to get those things out, but I don't know what it is. I'll post some pics of what I'm doing to change the angle and reweld the perches.
 
I used the Jegs kit but I'm gonna assume they're the same. I'm happy with it.
 
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Since my Sport came with the factory scoop and cutouts, figured I'd try for a ram air set up. Copied Demon408's excellent post, using some different parts. Did use the 17 inch cake pan. Also, since most of what I've learned came from FABO, I decided to use my Gold decal as a call out on the fixture.
 
Ever since I installed the Hughes deep pan on the 200-4R, I've had a small drip. And I'm not driving it yet, just doing engine break-in. Wasn't leaving a puddle on the floor but every time I went under the car, there was fluid on the pan, coming from the gasket area. After reading about Lube Locker gaskets on another thread, I bought one. Went on easy and so far no leaks. I've taken the engine to operating temp and run thru the gears and so far so good.
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After a couple of years of mostly unseen work, the Dart was loaded on the trailer and hauled to Bay City Classics in Norfolk, VA, for paint and body work. Body work is major - both quarters and tail panel replaced, entire car blasted and then comes the rest. Final will be black with white side and tail panel stripes - just like the one I bought new in 1973. Of course, I never thought back then that I'd spend nearly 10 times what I paid for that one to restore this one.
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A link to a short video of body work progress so far. Driver side quarter, outer wheel well, and trunk extension are in. NOS tail panel is in. Working on the passenger side quarter, outer wheel well, and trunk extension.
 
Looking good. It's humorous how a couple of the builds on here are nearing completion and I was ahead of them from the start. Like sands through the hour glass, these are the days of our lives lol...

You may be wheeling g it by summer Bill.

JW
 
Hope so. Once back from paint, all I have left is interior, glass front and rear, and wheels and tires. Can't wait, feel like I'm in the home stretch.
 
Took a trip to Bay City Classics last week to check on the Dart. Both quarters, the trunk extensions, outer wheel houses, tail panel, and trunk rails are in. Getting the car ready to go to the body and paint side of the shop. With luck I'll have it back around Christmas. Would be a nice Christmas present!
 
SLOPAR72 said:
Wow, a body shop actually doing the work within a reasonable amount of time. Nice.......

JW
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They're top-notch all the way. I get a detailed summary each Monday of all the work done the previous week, even give the name of the mechanics and what they worked on.
 
Took a trip to Bay City Classics yesterday to check on progress on the Dart. It's getting closer to paint. Here it is with the first of 3 guide coats. They use PPG paints, and not water borne. The primer is a PPG epoxy.
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Took another trip to Bay City Classics today to check on progress on the Dart. Guide coat work is almost done. Was told the car may be in paint shortly after Christmas. Can't wait to see it. Also, found out that FABO member dartfreak75 works at the shop, talked to him for a bit about our projects.
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Nice work so far. I don't want to de-rail your thread to much but what does the geometry correction kit do exactly?
 
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