1974 Duster Fuse Box Identification

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Drake

Drake

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My '74 Duster's fuse box doesn't have any names beside the fuses, it only has numbers. Is there a chart or something identifying the numbers on the fuse block? I need to know what fuse goes to what, but I don't know what the numbers mean.

Thanks.

-- Drake
 
#1 - 3 amp
Dashboard lights

#2 - 20 amp
radio
heater blower
backup lamps
turnsignals

#3 - 20 amp
AC compressor clutch
rear window defogger

#4 - 20 amp
AC blower

#5 empty

#6 - 3 amp
seatbelt interlock
gas gauge
oil/brake warning lights

#7 - 20 amp
ignition switch light
cigar lighter
buzzer
hazard blinkers
brake lights
dome light
glove box light
map light
trunk light

#8 - 20 amp
horn
instument cluster
tailights/parking lights/side markers/license plate light

#9 & 10 empty
 
Thanks a million. :)

A question for you: Will a missing light (say the dome light) disrupt the workings of other lights (as in blinkers, etc)?

I guess what I am trying to say is, are all of the lights required for the others to work? The fuses are all good, yet my blinkers wont work, nor will my reverse lights. The passenger's side brake light is also stuck and is bright all of the time, so I was wondering if a missing bulb somewhere else could cause this as all are connected to the same terminal. (It could also be a wire, which will be fun to find) :p
 
A missing bulb will not affect other circuits from working properly except for the blinkers. All blinker bulbs need to be working in order for them to blink on the stock wiring system.
 
Must be a wire then, because all of blinker bulbs have been replaced.

Thanks Jim.
 
Lots of things to check, but one weird brake light and no blinkers sounds like the turn signal switch to me.

Make sure the sockets are grounded properly. The dim tailight filament and the bright brake/turn filament share a ground connection. If the socket isn't grounded, that shared ground can cause some weird problems.
 
There is a tab (where the reverse light hooks up) that is broken off on the Passenger's side. Could that disrupt the circuit?
 
Drake said:
.......... my blinkers wont work, nor will my reverse lights. The passenger's side brake light is also stuck and is bright all of the time,
Click to expand...

OK, calm down LOL

Get yourself a factory service manual. FACTORY Not Haynes, and not Chilton. You can buy reprints or "on CD" various places

The newest online free one you can download is 73, from MyMopar. THERE ARE differences, though, between 73 and 74, one being the seat belt interlock system

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Also from MyMopar, are NON factory wiring diagrams, which are not always correct or complete, but sometimes easier to follow and can be quite useful

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams 1972 to 1976



EXPLAIN what you mean "one brake light is stuck on all of the time?"

All of the time WHEN? With the car just sitting, shut down? This will run the battery down. That could be a stuck brake light switch added to "other problems" or it could be a wiring short.

You need to figure out what works and when...........

You have two FLASHER units, they are not "blinkers." One FLASHER operates the turn signals, the other one operates the HAZARD flashers, some times called "4 way" or emergency

Sometimes you can switch the two around, if one is bad, it might work as the hazard one sees little use.

Don't just "look" at fuses, check VOLTAGE. Use a 12V test lamp minimum, or a meter. Check for voltage at the fuse clips on both ends. Keep in mind, that a few of them are "hot" with the key off, the others must have the key in "run" or "accessory."

=============================================

A few "things."

Pull ALL of your brake / signal lamps and check them, clean the sockets, check the lamps are correct numbers AND THAT THEY WORK. Lamps can have, EG, the filaments can "weld across" making the turn and park circuits interconnect which can be fun. A wrong lamp can cause "fun"

Next, check with your lamp/ meter on both sides of the brake light switch. One terminal should be hot at all times. The other should be hot when you press the brake

THE BRAKE POWER goes from the switch TO the TURN SIGNAL SWITCH. The switch then routes the power to the two rear lamps. If both turn signals work but only one brake, or none, you might have a bad turn switch

WIGGLE TEST the hazard switch on the column. Those give trouble. Turn sig switches can "break apart" internally causing "fun."
 
Last edited:
Drake said:
There is a tab (where the reverse light hooks up) that is broken off on the Passenger's side. Could that disrupt the circuit?
Click to expand...
That bulb is not going to work without it's ground, but won't affect anything else.
 
zkx14 said:
That bulb is not going to work without it's ground, but won't affect anything else.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure he was talking about a ground. Without a specific description, "a guess"
 
Drake said:
There is a tab (where the reverse light hooks up) that is broken off on the Passenger's side. Could that disrupt the circuit?
Click to expand...

zkx14 said:
That bulb is not going to work without it's ground, but won't affect anything else.
Click to expand...

67Dart273 said:
I'm not sure he was talking about a ground. Without a specific description, "a guess"
Click to expand...

Well, I suppose nothing is 100%, but it's a bit more than a guess...
Since the harness comes to the rear from the drivers side, the only connections on the passenger side are those to the side marker and tail light assembly. He specifically said "where the reverse light hooks up". That narrows it down to this (see pic).
The gray wire on the tab is in fact the ground for that bulb. Ref. 1974 FSM
Notes-Pictured is backup lamp assembly on 1975 Duster (same as 1974). There is one other tab on the tail light for the ground wire connection to the stop/turn lamp.

2016-07-24 03 55 11.jpg
 
Last edited:
Another revived 6 year old thread from what appears to be a banned member.
 
67Dart273 said:
OK, calm down LOL

Get yourself a factory service manual. FACTORY Not Haynes, and not Chilton. You can buy reprints or "on CD" various places

The newest online free one you can download is 73, from MyMopar. THERE ARE differences, though, between 73 and 74, one being the seat belt interlock system

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - MyMopar Tools/Reference

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Service Manuals

Also from MyMopar, are NON factory wiring diagrams, which are not always correct or complete, but sometimes easier to follow and can be quite useful

MyMopar - Mopar Forums & Information - Mopar Wiring Diagrams 1972 to 1976



EXPLAIN what you mean "one brake light is stuck on all of the time?"

All of the time WHEN? With the car just sitting, shut down? This will run the battery down. That could be a stuck brake light switch added to "other problems" or it could be a wiring short.

You need to figure out what works and when...........

You have two FLASHER units, they are not "blinkers." One FLASHER operates the turn signals, the other one operates the HAZARD flashers, some times called "4 way" or emergency

Sometimes you can switch the two around, if one is bad, it might work as the hazard one sees little use.

Don't just "look" at fuses, check VOLTAGE. Use a 12V test lamp minimum, or a meter. Check for voltage at the fuse clips on both ends. Keep in mind, that a few of them are "hot" with the key off, the others must have the key in "run" or "accessory."

=============================================

A few "things."

Pull ALL of your brake / signal lamps and check them, clean the sockets, check the lamps are correct numbers AND THAT THEY WORK. Lamps can have, EG, the filaments can "weld across" making the turn and park circuits interconnect which can be fun. A wrong lamp can cause "fun"

Next, check with your lamp/ meter on both sides of the brake light switch. One terminal should be hot at all times. The other should be hot when you press the brake

THE BRAKE POWER goes from the switch TO the TURN SIGNAL SWITCH. The switch then routes the power to the two rear lamps. If both turn signals work but only one brake, or none, you might have a bad turn switch

WIGGLE TEST the hazard switch on the column. Those give trouble. Turn sig switches can "break apart" internally causing "fun."
Click to expand...
!"fun"aka pulling you're hair out and being frustrated. Lol love it. But dont like much ' fun's ". I do however appreciate all of you guys has advice as I stalk all your older posts to relearn some of the stuff that I should already know
 
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