1974 duster starting issue

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Stone340

Stone340

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Only starts when holding the key in start position for 5-10 seconds. There is no crank during this time. I do hear an electrical noise or click when I turn key. Also noticed that the radio doesn’t come on when key is in accessory/run position. When car is running the radio keeps turning on and off. Don’t know if that has anything to do with it not cranking. The neutral safety switch is new. Battery is good. Starter relay is new. Ballast is new. Car will start when bypassing the terminals on relay every time. I’m thinking something wrong with key switch. Is that behind the steering wheel?
(wanted to know before pulling wheel off). Been scratching my head for couple of weeks now. Checked ground and all wires to bulkhead. I’ve had this car since 1999 and this my first electrical issue. Any suggestions helpful. Thanks in advanced.
 
Go to MyMopar and get a FSM and research the wiring on the ignition switch.
 
Stone340 said:
Only starts when holding the key in start position for 5-10 seconds. There is no crank during this time. I do hear an electrical noise or click when I turn key. Also noticed that the radio doesn’t come on when key is in accessory/run position. When car is running the radio keeps turning on and off. Don’t know if that has anything to do with it not cranking. The neutral safety switch is new. Battery is good. Starter relay is new. Ballast is new. Car will start when bypassing the terminals on relay every time. I’m thinking something wrong with key switch. Is that behind the steering wheel?
(wanted to know before pulling wheel off). Been scratching my head for couple of weeks now. Checked ground and all wires to bulkhead. I’ve had this car since 1999 and this my first electrical issue. Any suggestions helpful. Thanks in advanced.
Click to expand...

If it’s a ‘74 it will have seat belt interlock garbage on it. There’s a relay out in the engine bay and a few other components, kinda sounds like you may have a relay going bad and it’s taking more juice to energize it.

There’s been a few different threads on the seat belt interlock lately, just search seat belt interlock or seat belt relay. You can bypass it entirely, if nothing else you can bypass it and that way you can eliminate it as a possibility.

It may also just be a bad ignition switch, they can develop some play in them and when they do they don’t always make all the circuits they need to.
Demonracer said:
Go to MyMopar and get a FSM and research the wiring on the ignition switch.
Click to expand...

There is no FSM for a ‘74 at mymopar. In fact, there’s no free manual that covers the seat belt interlock wiring at all. The ‘74 up wiring is different enough that the free ‘73 manual isn’t much help if it’s that seat belt interlock system.
 
This is a bit hard to figure. Typical problems are (in no order)
Bad or loose/ worn ignition switch
Bad ignition switch connector
Bad connection(s) in the bulkhead/ firewall connnector
Bad connections at the ammeter or trouble in the ammeter
Iffy intermittent start relay
Iffy intermittent neutral switch or connector

AND THEN THERE IS

The seat belt interlock, which was 74 only, and I've heard some early 75 models

www.forabodiesonly.com

bypassing interlock system

hi, i need help on bypassing of removing the interlock system in my 74 slant six duster. it has been acting up lately and i will occasionally have to pop the hood and bypass the starter relay which can get annoying at times. any help would be great! thanks
www.forabodiesonly.com www.forabodiesonly.com

16kx4d2-jpg.jpg


This is a small box like a horn relay over on the driver side fender apron, and has a red reset button out of the top of the box. What you need to do is take the two yellow/ yellow-black stripe wires and splice them together.

Also as a quick check, hold the key in start while cycling the shift lever from park to neutral. If you hear a click or buzz, you are on the right track, either bad NSS or connections/ wiring, or just linkage out of adjustment.
 
Find the ignition switch connector then unplug it from the dash harness. Inspect for burned terminals.
 
67Dart273 said:
This is a bit hard to figure. Typical problems are (in no order)
Bad or loose/ worn ignition switch
Bad ignition switch connector
Bad connection(s) in the bulkhead/ firewall connnector
Bad connections at the ammeter or trouble in the ammeter
Iffy intermittent start relay
Iffy intermittent neutral switch or connector

AND THEN THERE IS

The seat belt interlock, which was 74 only, and I've heard some early 75 models

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View attachment 1716174151

This is a small box like a horn relay over on the driver side fender apron, and has a red reset button out of the top of the box. What you need to do is take the two yellow/ yellow-black stripe wires and splice them together.

Also as a quick check, hold the key in start while cycling the shift lever from park to neutral. If you hear a click or buzz, you are on the right track, either bad NSS or connections/ wiring, or just linkage out of adjustment.
Click to expand...
I believe mine is attached behind kick panel under dash. I don’t have that on the fender. I have heard about the seatbelt relay but I thought it was already bypassed because the wiring under the seat isn’t connected. Will check it out and reply with results.
 
Stone340 said:
I believe mine is attached behind kick panel under dash. I don’t have that on the fender. I have heard about the seatbelt relay but I thought it was already bypassed because the wiring under the seat isn’t connected. Will check it out and reply with results.
Click to expand...
It should be on the fender apron. If not either you maybe ?? have a very early model 74 that skipped by without it, or someone has bypassed it
 
I would:

1...Rig yourself with a test light and alligator clips, or enlist a friend. Rig the light to ground and to the start wire at the start relay. This will be the yellow of the two wires. Verify that as you turn the key and hold to start, that you get a nice bright light.

If not, check the routing of the yellow wire. If someone bypassed that interlock, maybe they didn't make a good connection at the two yellows. I would unwrap some of the harness over on the fender. Look for suspicious bulk, re-wrapped area, etc.

You can find the bulkhead terminal where the start wire comes into the bay, probe that with your light and check again, with the key in start

If you just cannot get a "solid" light, move into the interior, and acess the ignition switch connector coming off the column. It is a long slender inline connector. Check there with your light to see if you have start voltage. Check the connector for heat damage, loose, corrosion, etc. If you have a light there,, you are still looking at that wire, goes through the bulkhead terminal, to where the reset used to be (bypassed) and onwards to the start relay

2...If you do get a good light in (1) above, now move your light to the other "push on" connector on the start relay. It should NOT light. If not, put the shifter in D, 2, or 1 and twist the key again. NOW it should light, which shows the relay coil is getting power through it, and that the NSS is opening up.

3...If not maybe the relay coil is intermittent or bad. Remove both push on connectors. Ground either terminal with a alligator clip wire, and jumper 12V to the other. Engine should crank. If not, relay should click. If not, replace the relay.

4...Could be intermittent / loose wire from the relay to the solenoid. This is the large about no12 or no19 wire from the "square" screw terminal of the relay, down to the starter. With everything reconnected "normal," and the shifter in park, move your light to the big square screw. Any time the key is in start, it should light. If it does, and the starter does not operate, move your light down to the small solenoid terminal on the starter and recheck.

5..You say the starter operates when jumpered, if this seems "solid" and every time, the starter is good I would say
 
This is a simple circuit, the path is: Key in "start" yellow "start" wire should be hot---------to the switch connector at the column---through the bulkhead connector---to the seat belt reset / or bypassed---to the start relay---through the relay coil--out on the neutral start switch terminal of the start relay----down the firewall to the center terminal of the NSS--and to ground when the shifter is P or N

The relay activates..........

The big "stud" is always hot from battery--through the relay contacts--out on the "square" screw terminal of the relay---down to the starter solenoid on the no12 or no10 wire coming off that terminal
 
The relay in your photo was used from 1971 thru 1973.
Check the build date of your car on the metal tag on the left inner fender.
To find out the purpose of the relay search eBay #3579205.
 
townsend said:
The relay in your photo was used from 1971 thru 1973.
Check the build date of your car on the metal tag on the left inner fender.
To find out the purpose of the relay search eBay #3579205.
Click to expand...
Figured out that it’s just the buzzer. That’s only thing on the car that resembles the other interlock picture. I gonna have to retrace some wires and to some checking.
 
The key feature about the interlock box is the reset button. So far as I know the connector was red, just like in the post I made earlier
 
Stone340 said:
Also noticed that the radio doesn’t come on when key is in accessory/run position. When car is running the radio keeps turning on and off. Don’t know if that has anything to do with it not cranking.
Click to expand...
Radio circuit on '73 and '74 are similar. A lot more than just radio.
See this for an example.
www.forabodiesonly.com

Turn signals not working, blowing fuse

Don't concentrate on the turn signals!!! Find out what all is on that fuse, someone posted a chart earlier......... Radio Back up lights Dash mounted reverse indicator (if used) Stop lamps Turn signals. 1...Pull the flasher 2...Remove left kick panel and separate the connector to the rear...
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