So the K member is bent,it was originally a 6 cylinder and previous owner put a 318 with conversion mounts. Should have mentioned I just bought the car. My question is should I go back with a stock 6 cylinder K member or get a stock small block one? Not sure what kind of can of worms I'm opening here
1975 duster K member
- Thread starter William R Allvord
- Start date
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
All you need to do to get the 318 to fit a V8 K is buy the proper 318 factory mounts/ brackets. You can actually use any K from 68-75........72 and earlier, you will have to use the old style "pillow" mounts, and 73/ later you will use the "spool" mounts. Everything else will bolt right up. You cannot use a 67 K because it had the oddball idler arm.
If your conversion mounts are OK, you can do the same with a /6 K ---except you will need to determine what your conversion mounts are, year-wise, and match them to the K
If your conversion mounts are OK, you can do the same with a /6 K ---except you will need to determine what your conversion mounts are, year-wise, and match them to the K
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Since you already have the conversion mounts, you'll be fine with another '73-'76 slant 6 K member. If you find a V8 K member, make sure you get the factory engine brackets with it to save yourself the trouble of hunting them down. It all comes down to where you find the best deal. Either way, you're replacing a K frame, same amount of work with either one.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Not if he's got the late anti-sway bar- it goes through the K frame instead of around it like on the '67-'72 Ks.
The sway bar is the bar from the K member going back to the lower control arm. I know that sounds dumb to say but I'm not familiar with these torsion bar front ends.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Two options there- the strut rod (green) and the sway bar (red) both attach to the K frame and the lower control arm. You may or may not have a sway bar- they were optional.
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
The "Parts Wanted" section of this forum. Make sure you specify a '73-'76 K frame.
Ok thank you very much.
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
How bent is it? I have successfully straightened a really bad one, but it was a lot of work (I did it just because I could). Slightly bent ones are pretty easy on my jig.
I probably could but it's bent and split
I probably could but it's bent and split
Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
Split is not a problem. That might actually help in the straightening process.
cudamark
Well-Known Member
Whichever K-member you get, check it over very carefully for cracks and bad welds. They were notorious for that. Other trouble prone areas are the strut rod holes in the front, and the lower control arm sockets. Just about every '73-6 K-member I've seen could use some extra welding as some factory welds are not much more than a tack weld.
Thanks for the heads up.
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