1976 Dart - ignition switch

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DionR said:
That is off.

Here is mine in ACC.

View attachment 1716293518

Note that it is stiff and I had to wiggle the key to get it there. But that's where ACC is.

I meant to check, but my bet is that the "position" you are feeling between off and run isn't a position at all.
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You have 4_positions: ACC, OFF (key out), RUN, START. I have 4-positions: ACC (key out), OFF, RUN, START. What you see in my photo is the full CCW rotation. It would seem my lockset is indexed one position CW...
 
townsend said:
Sometimes there is wear on the tumblers in the lock cylinder or in the key.
Key will turn the lock cylinder one way but not the other.
Click to expand...
Here's a flyer...the keys were made by a locksmith but that doesn't explain how the lockset could be indexed CW.
 
Can the lockset be removed without tearing the steering column apart?
 
DionR said:
Yep, just checked my car a sure enough there is a "position" between off and run. But it isn't anything but a long sweep in the switch, doesn't connect to anything. Even feels like a detent, but I think it is just coming out of the off detent that makes it feel that way.

Wiggle the key and turn it back, that's where your ACC position is.
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I've not been able to move it. I'll try again in the morning.
 
Tool.Man said:
Can the lockset be removed without tearing the steering column apart?
Click to expand...

You have to pull the steering wheel, but then you can get the lockset out. There should be a button you push so you can pull it out, but you might have to turn it back to the ACC position to be able to push the button. Don't remember for sure, but that point kind of sticks in my head.

Maybe shoot some lube in there and keep wiggling it?
 
Try some 3-in-One Lock Dry Lube.
To remove lock cylinder:
Place cylinder in lock or off position and remove key.
Insert a small diameter screwdriver or similar tool into lock cylinder release hole and push in to release spring loaded lock retainer. At the same time pull the lock cylinder out of housing bore. Then you'll probably have to take the lock cylinder and and key to a locksmith.
 
The key switch has been changed and is clocked wrong. Or maybe the rod is in the wrong spot on the column mounted switch that’s on the left side. Take the plastic cover off the bottom of the dash and have a look. Take a pic if u can. Pics will help a lot.its a pretty crude drawing but u should get the just of it. Kim Kim

image.jpg
 
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The problem was in the lockset. I’ve changed that and am now piecing it back together. Look in the photo and tell me if you think I have a broken steering wheel lock.

IMG_4648.jpeg
 
Yes, your steering wheel lock pawl is broken.

When I did this job on my '71, A dozen knocks with a hammer and punch drove out the roll pin, and off came the lockplate. Unlike some GM columns, this lockplate clearly served no purpose other than to lock the steering wheel when the ignition is turned off; it didn’t act as a crucial spacer or anything, so I decided it wasn’t going back on. That meant no more need for the pawl arm that engaged the lockplate; I removed two screws and the pawl arm, spring, and retainer came right out. I noticed the pawl arm had a central pivot point and a wear polish on both ends, and quickly discovered it served not only to lock the steering wheel, but also to lock the gearshift. No qualm losing the shift lock; my ’65 didn’t have it and the era of 4-door Darts being common theft targets ended decades ago. Plus, if someone is gonna steal it, I rather they do as little damage as possible so repairs, assuming I get it back, are less extensive.
 
Agree its broken.
You can punch out the steel pin holding the lock plate to the steering wheel and remove the entire mechanism.
Like Dan said if anyone wants to steal it, they will take a hammer a destroy that part of the column.
Also do you now have one key for the ignition lock and one for the doors.
 
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