1979 360 engine

[R0K3_B3aRd]

i just got a 1979 360 4bbl stock engine from a truck i don't know what kind it is so i need some help i forgot to get the numbers from the block. less than 80,000 miles oon it. I have a 273 right now in the 65 cuda so i was wondering what do i need in order to fit it in my cuda?? is it bolt on? can i still use some stuff from the 273?? thanks

 

[BadAss71]

Pretty much a bolt in being your car is already a small block. You will need to source an oil pan and pick up for a 340/360 car, and will also need to run a spacer on the drivers side motor mount boss on the block when you swap the mounts over. Other then that swap away!

 

[krazykuda]

There's a couple number oil pans that will work in the early a-body, do a search to find out which ones are best.

Take the original 273 timing chain cover and cast iron water pump and install it on the
360.

Keep the original 360 harmonic balancer and make new marks for the different timing mark locations from the old timing chain cover to the new one. (the marks moved to the opposite side in 1970.

this way, you can keep all of your original alternator mounting and power steering mounting (if applicable), and radiator hoses will all fit properly.

I would also recommend changing the timing chain while you are in there. Here's a nice chain..

http://www.manciniracing.com/edelbrock4.html

 

[R0K3_B3aRd]

There's a couple number oil pans that will work in the early a-body, do a search to find out which ones are best.

Take the original 273 timing chain cover and cast iron water pump and install it on the
360.

Keep the original 360 harmonic balancer and make new marks for the different timing mark locations from the old timing chain cover to the new one. (the marks moved to the opposite side in 1970.

this way, you can keep all of your original alternator mounting and power steering mounting (if applicable), and radiator hoses will all fit properly.

I would also recommend changing the timing chain while you are in there. Here's a nice chain..

http://www.manciniracing.com/edelbrock4.html

what do you mean by timing marks? and the one you showed me was for the v6. I was wondering how do i know if its a small block or big? and last so the radiator will fit right and should i just get a 727 ? thanks

 

[krazykuda]

The early style LA engine from 64 to 69 had the timing marks on the pass side of the engine and a cast iron water pump housing.

In 70 they changed the timing marks and water pump lower radiator outlet to the opposite side (approx 90°).

If you don't use the same water pump for that period with the correct timing chain cover, then the timing marks will be approx 90° off and will be hidden by the water pump radiator outlet.

Use the damper for the engine that you are putting in the car. In this case use the original 360 damper, install the old 273 timing chain cover and marker tab if seperate, then put the engine at TDC, and make a mark on the damper to match up with the TDC mark for the old 273.... Look at each vibration damper and notice the location of the timing mark to the key way slot, they are oriented differently, you just have to correct for this with a new mark...

 

[krazykuda]

what do you mean by timing marks? and the one you showed me was for the v6. I was wondering how do i know if its a small block or big? and last so the radiator will fit right and should i just get a 727 ? thanks

Read the description for the timing chain closely, it states v-6 and Small Block.

The 3.9 L v-6 was literally a 318 with two cylinders removed. It takes the same timing chain as a small block as it was derived off of a small block. That is the correct timing chain for a small block 273-318-340-360 AND the 3.9 L v-6....

 

[krazykuda]

I was wondering how do i know if its a small block or big? and last so the radiator will fit right and should i just get a 727 ? thanks

All small block LA engines have the distributor in the rear of the block.

All mopar big block engines have the distributor in the front of the block and it turns in the opposite direction.

 

[RustyRatRod]

It's an LA Chrysler 360. That's what kind it is.

 

[krazykuda]

should i just get a 727 ? thanks

You need to do some research on the trans.

The 273 came with a 904 trans. The early years (I think 66 and earlier) transmissions have a smaller pilot on the torque converter than the later ones, so you have to get the proper torque converter with the right diameter nose.

You can install the 727 in the car, it will bolt right in, and the linkages are also in the same location and will work. The 727 is a few inches longer (2'-4') than the 904, so you will have to get the drive shaft shortened and balanced to compensate.

You also have to get the proper torque converter and flex plate set up.

360's are externally balanced, 340's were internally balanced. The torque converters are balanced differently for each one. 360's had balancing weights on the torque converter. 340's were internally balanced also and had no weights on the torque converter. So to tell the difference in a 340 converter compared to a 360 converter, look for the balancing weights. If the converter has balancing weights, then it is for the 360, if it doesn't have the balancing weights, it is for a 340.

B&M makes a special flex plate that is balanced to put the 340 torque converter on the 360. If you find a 340 converter, you can use it with the special B&M flex plate on the 360.

http://www.manciniracing.com/bm1.html


The 65 drive shaft and trans use the trunion, where the 66 and later transmissions use the slip yoke. You may want to consider converting over to the slip yoke with the 727.

However a 904 can be built with heavy duty parts and be able to handle the 360 also, you can decide which way that you want to go. The 904 is lighter, has less drag, and can have a lower first gear ratio to get you off the line faster than the 727. However 727's are a bit stronger with the extra clutch pack over the 904...

 

[Abodybomber]

You need to do some research on the trans.

The 273 came with a 904 trans. The early years (I think 66 and earlier) transmissions have a smaller pilot on the torque converter than the later ones, so you have to get the proper torque converter with the right diameter nose.

You can install the 727 in the car, it will bolt right in, and the linkages are also in the same location and will work. The 727 is a few inches longer (2'-4') than the 904, so you will have to get the drive shaft shortened and balanced to compensate.

You also have to get the proper torque converter and flex plate set up.

360's are externally balanced, 340's were internally balanced. The torque converters are balanced differently for each one. 360's had balancing weights on the torque converter. 340's were internally balanced also and had no weights on the torque converter. So to tell the difference in a 340 converter compared to a 360 converter, look for the balancing weights. If the converter has balancing weights, then it is for the 360, if it doesn't have the balancing weights, it is for a 340.

B&M makes a special flex plate that is balanced to put the 340 torque converter on the 360. If you find a 340 converter, you can use it with the special B&M flex plate on the 360.

http://www.manciniracing.com/bm1.html


The 65 drive shaft and trans use the trunion, where the 66 and later transmissions use the slip yoke. You may want to consider converting over to the slip yoke with the 727.

However a 904 can be built with heavy duty parts and be able to handle the 360 also, you can decide which way that you want to go. The 904 is lighter, has less drag, and can have a lower first gear ratio to get you off the line faster than the 727. However 727's are a bit stronger with the extra clutch pack over the 904...

Karl, I have heard the 727 housing is tight, on the 63-66 a body transmission tunnels. Any personal knowledge?