1983 D150 / Slant Six the story Continues

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my68barracuda

my68barracuda

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My Dad bought this Dodge D150 new in September of 1982. Dad passed in 2007 and I ended up with the truck. Dad bought it as a D150, short bed, a833 OD transmission, 2 bbl carb, HD suspension and brakes, no other option on the truck, no radio, ac, carpet.
The D150 was in decent shape, rust wise, Dad was driving when perhaps he should not have been, the truck was always garaged, but the front fender corners were bent in from him missing the garage opening. But the truck was clean.
I got it in '07, took it down to the frame, all new parts going in, added about everything that one could put on a new pick up: AC, power windows, power door locks, sound insulation, high brake light, outside temperature and compass....
My intent was to daily drive the D150 in the late spring through the fall months and also use it as a tow vehicle for the 68 Barracuda. And I did. I will dig out a towing photo and post that.
Fast Forward to 2020 and I needed to do some maintenance on the D150 and also wanted to change some things around.

83 D150 2020.jpg
 
There was a clutch issue, the finger height adjusting bolts on this B&B clutch were improperly staked, I did not know that then, but I know it now, causing real shifting difficulties as the engine warmed.
I did know there was a clutch issue, so I was going to pull the motor. With it out I decided to do a cam swap and a general clean up on the motor and engine compartment.
With the motor out, did a rebuild of the cylinder head, valves cleaned, re lapped, new valve seals

D150 Valves.jpg


D150 windage tray.jpg
 
Concerning the cam change, the cam in the motor was a 212 / 206 at .050 that I had custom ground at Oregon. It was a fine match for what I wanted, as that cam was set up to provide HP and TQ at low rpm's. I had no intention of trying to make this 4100 lb D150 a high rpm slant screamer. But I found a cam that looked like it would give a little bit more on the low end and I wanted to try it.
Certainly the replacement cam gives up HP and TQ above 4K RPM, but that is not where I drive this D150 anyway.
A chart plotted from Dyno Sim is posted below. I have a Super Flow 110 flow bench. Using real life values for port flow helps the results to be accurate. I have had the D150 on a chassis dyno and those HP and TQ curves were on line with what Dyno Sim had predicted.

cam chart D150.jpg


Super Flow 110.jpg
 
Post #2, the last photo. Did you replace the transmission mount? If so, what did you use? I'm finishing up the engine in my 82 D150, also slant and 833 OD. I can't find a correct trans mount to save my life.
 
halfafish said:
Post #2, the last photo. Did you replace the transmission mount? If so, what did you use? I'm finishing up the engine in my 82 D150, also slant and 833 OD. I can't find a correct trans mount to save my life.
Click to expand...

I used the OE transmission cross mount, for the rubber cushion, back then I was buying a lot of parts from : NAPA, Autozone, RockAuto.
Are you needing the cross brace or the rubber mount?
 
Very ,very nicely done, I must say I am digging your updated /6 and the truck.

Yep, very nizze sir :thumbsup:
 
my68barracuda said:
I used the OE transmission cross mount, for the rubber cushion, back then I was buying a lot of parts from : NAPA, Autozone, RockAuto.
Are you needing the cross brace or the rubber mount?
Click to expand...

I need the rubber mount. I've ordered them from NAPA, O'Reilly's, and Auto Zone. They were all the same, but none were correct. The legs and holes that mount to the trans are different, the cross bolt location is different, and the legs are bent at the wrong angle. I really need to get this engine back in the truck, so I'm going to use the old one temporarily. Here are a couple of pix of the one I need.

DSCN1016.JPG


DSCN1017.JPG


DSCN1018.JPG
 
halfafish said:
I need the rubber mount. I've ordered them from NAPA, O'Reilly's, and Auto Zone. They were all the same, but none were correct. The legs and holes that mount to the trans are different, the cross bolt location is different, and the legs are bent at the wrong angle. I really need to get this engine back in the truck, so I'm going to use the old one temporarily. Here are a couple of pix of the one I need.


View attachment 1715736360



View attachment 1715736361

View attachment 1715736362
Click to expand...


The Anchor 2512 Looks correct to me. Have you looked at it?

1980 DODGE D150 Anchor Industries 2512 Anchor Industries Transmission Mounts | Summit Racing
 
halfafish said:
I need the rubber mount. I've ordered them from NAPA, O'Reilly's, and Auto Zone. They were all the same, but none were correct. The legs and holes that mount to the trans are different, the cross bolt location is different, and the legs are bent at the wrong angle. I really need to get this engine back in the truck, so I'm going to use the old one temporarily. Here are a couple of pix of the one I need.

View attachment 1715736360

View attachment 1715736361

View attachment 1715736362
Click to expand...
10 years ago when I re built the 83 D150 I was buying a lot of parts from RockAuto. I looked and they have several suppliers with transmission mounts. iIRC I changed only the inner metal cased rubber bushing and reused the metal flange.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The Anchor 2512 Looks correct to me. Have you looked at it?
Click to expand...

Hmm, I have not seen that one. It looks pretty close, and Summit's fit guide says it's the right one. I'll give it a try.

my68barracuda said:
10 years ago when I re built the 83 D150 I was buying a lot of parts from RockAuto. I looked and they have several suppliers with transmission mounts. iIRC I changed only the inner metal cased rubber bushing and reused the metal flange.
Click to expand...

Good to know, and thanks. The unintended hijack of your thread is over, if I need more help I'll start a different thread.

Gorgeous truck by the way!
 
halfafish said:
Hmm, I have not seen that one. It looks pretty close, and Summit's fit guide says it's the right one. I'll give it a try.



Good to know, and thanks. The unintended hijack of your thread is over, if I need more help I'll start a different thread.

Gorgeous truck by the way!
Click to expand...

Hopefully that will be the right one.
 
dirty white boy said:
what cam did you put back in it? how you like it??
Click to expand...

the cam that I put in back in 2011 was Oregon grind 1331 on the intake and Oregon 1527 intake on the exhaust. This is a hydraulic cam.
Advertised duration 256 / 250
lift at the valve .477 I / .432 E
I was looking for low RPM HP and TQ and it was fine for that, you could feel the cam come on at 2600 RPM and it pulled strong up through 4500 RPM.

Found a NOS slant six hydraulic Mopar Purple shaft cam at the Indy Cylinder head swap meet a few years ago.
P4529340, the box was dated 1988
Advertised Duration 240 / 240
lift at the valve .396 / .396
ground on a 106 centerline, I installed it at 102 ICL.

Since I had the motor out for a clutch change and the Dyno Sim predicted a bit more TQ below 3000 RPM I put it in.
The engine is set at 8.5 static compression, comparing Dynamic compression using the UEM calculator the dynamic compression with the
prior cam, was 7.537 With the new cam the dynamic compression went to 7.979

The little I have driven the D150 it does roll out a bit easier off idle. But I also have a new clutch in the truck and had just re built the cylinder head. I will find more out about the cam as time goes on. Going smaller matches how I now use the truck as a driver - cruser.
 
circlepilot said:
The attaching bolts for your windage tray...did you drill and tap two main caps? What size are they?
Click to expand...
The attaching bolts for your windage tray...

I bought those from another slant six guy that had access to a lathe, the bolts are grade 8 hex head bolts drilled / tapped on the cap side to accept a threaded allen.
But a better solution is what I used on the cast crank motor that I built for the 68 Barracuda. For the windage tray mounts on that motor I used big block Chevy main studs that have windage tray mounting extensions formed into them. They fit fine, plenty of room for shims to get the windage tray to crank gap right. Be sure to check the screw in depth of the main studs so the cross drilled oil holes are not restricted.
 
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