That's gotta be a first.
2 destroyed starters in a row...WTH?
- Thread starter Dusterdenovo
- Start date
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That's gotta be a first.
ragtopfury
Well-Known Member
If the witness marks are in fact from starter movement, I'd suspect that top bolt in the bolt pic. The shanked part of the bolt looks pretty long - i's the bolt bottoming out in the bell housing hole, giving you a false sense of being tight on the starter?
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Yes, I'm saying that the carbon buildup is breaking starters. Your carb is probably jetted too rich causing the carbon buildup, then the carbon glows red hot when the motor warms up, causing pre-ignition. We would advise folks to pump the gas pedal at least once to the floor before starting a hot motor; the extra fuel would cool the carbon; no pre-ignition from red hot carbon. Pumping a shot of fuel in there is a pretty simple test before you go replacing ignition parts. Also, if you give it maybe thirty seconds before you crank it, the fuel has time to vaporize before it enters the cylinder.
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A couple of things. The quality of the steel used in the ring gear. Or heat treatment? I've never seen a stock ring gear tooth break off, but I've seen several teeth wear sideways from a sticky Bendix.
The old 440 HP motors came with 500 CCA batteries. I'd bet yours has much more. Too much power [torque] for one tooth to handle? ---- Combine this with a stray spark and ????
I might try a 2 second time delay for the ignition on/start system. Let the engine spin up before the spark plugs light off. I don't know how to do it, but there are some sharp minds on this site.
The old 440 HP motors came with 500 CCA batteries. I'd bet yours has much more. Too much power [torque] for one tooth to handle? ---- Combine this with a stray spark and ????
I might try a 2 second time delay for the ignition on/start system. Let the engine spin up before the spark plugs light off. I don't know how to do it, but there are some sharp minds on this site.
Dusterdenovo
Contentedly Old School
My Duster is back on the road again, so I thought I would wind up this thread with the answer to the original question.
It turns out that the source of the engine kicking back when cranking was the Distributor.
After verifying my timing marks with a piston stop, I ordered a new "Pro Billet ready to run" Distributor from @Johnny Mac over at Blueprint. It's a step up from the original Distributor, with Blueprint's usual great service.
With the new Distributor, she's an angry beast again. I took a good look at the faulty Distributor and didn't see any obvious problems with the advance mechanisms or anything, but replacing it solved the problem .
While I had the engine/tranny out, I also replaced the 727 manual shaft seal (leaked since day 1)
and put another bend at the top of the ATF dipstick tube so it now points clear of the blower motor and the fabricated valve cover. 2 more big PITAs off my list now.
Mopar life is good again!
It turns out that the source of the engine kicking back when cranking was the Distributor.
After verifying my timing marks with a piston stop, I ordered a new "Pro Billet ready to run" Distributor from @Johnny Mac over at Blueprint. It's a step up from the original Distributor, with Blueprint's usual great service.
With the new Distributor, she's an angry beast again. I took a good look at the faulty Distributor and didn't see any obvious problems with the advance mechanisms or anything, but replacing it solved the problem .
While I had the engine/tranny out, I also replaced the 727 manual shaft seal (leaked since day 1)
and put another bend at the top of the ATF dipstick tube so it now points clear of the blower motor and the fabricated valve cover. 2 more big PITAs off my list now.
Mopar life is good again!
I went through that on my HP 440, drove me nuts. Turned out when the motor was hot only when cranking the vac advance would advance and it would kick back. Went to a full mechanical distributor never happened again. Just FYI
any idea if you need to go though BluePrint to get new caps and rotors?
Dusterdenovo
Contentedly Old School
These units are "MSD inspired", so MSD parts work but the Blueprint parts are a lot cheaper. And Johnny's caps are black not red if that matters.
CudaFactHackJob
Well-Known Member
Do you have as much power as before? And a vacuum advance can advance the timing while cranking if it's plugged into constant vacuum; with the throttle closed. Off idle vacuum can do the same thing with the throttle slightly opened; just not as easily. I just always like to know the "why"..
Dusterdenovo
Contentedly Old School
Power is all there. I smile just thinking about it ha ha.
Yeah, I suspected it might have something to do with the VA, but the 2nd time it broke the Vacuum line was disconnected/plugged. Have only ever run the VA from the "Timed Spark Vacuum source" (Holley 750) but I hear what you're saying.
Stuff like this is never a bad thing if you learn something (or lots) along the way.
Before I was half way through these posts, I was thinking distributor. I had this same problem with the new electronic/ magneto replacements when they started coming out. We are talking airplanes here. They got it figured out finally, but what a cost in all of the expensive airplane starters replaced.
Hydraulicing usually bends rods.
My opinion
Hydraulicing usually bends rods.
My opinion
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