2 years of body and paint.....done!

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Very nice job. Do you have a thread that shows your step by step work? Was wondering, you said hundreds of hours blocking. Did you start at the top and work down, or front to back or just one panel at a time? I'm hoping to put down my first coat of primer on mine in the next few weeks and I've never done body and paint. Have a few guys that are giving my instruction as I go but would like to hear your method as well. Again excellent work!
Rod

Thanks Rod, I don't have a step by step. I work about 70 to 80 hours a week so hard to do things that I like. I probably did not do the body work like a pro, because I am not. Only painted about 10 cars in my life. I started to do the Dart because it looked like a circus mirror down the sides. I started by gettting the worse down with 50 grit on a large DA. After realizing that the RR quarter was full of bondo, from dents and crashes I cut it out and welded a new one back in. I then went to 80 grit on a long flexible board doing one panel at a time. Granted I did not have to do much to the new quarter except were I welded. I think I blocked it with 180. Continuing on with the 80 grit to the rest of the car. Unbelievable how bad even the factory panels, where no damage was present. Some skin coats of rage gold after the 80 grit, sand and sand more. No small DA was every used, just long flexible boards. Final touch ups with Evercoat Glazing 2 part, sand, fill....and then getting the body lines straight. Bet I spent 80 hours on all that. There is a masking tape method that works good on this. Google getting body lines straight, there are several videos. After all that then about 3 coats of 2k epoxy primer (USE EPOXY PRIMER!)....sand, sand, sand. Spray more primer where it broke thru, sand sand sand. Then on to the color base coat and the clear, about 4 coats of that. After it hardened, block wet sand with 1000 grit and then buff with 2 compounds and then glaze coat. I was limited on my budget so I did not use the most expensive paint. I used Nason products throughout. Total materials, with sandpaper, primer, paint, bondo, compounds, etc. about $2000. Sorry for the windy stuff, but if I can help someone, I will. If you need more specifics, let me know. Good Day.

Oh....forgot to mention.....Used about 4 spray cans of guide coat during the sanding. You will not get panels level without doing this process.
 
your not windy at all,more info the better.very nice work,i wish i had your skills
 
congrats on a great job! to get it perfect, lots of work. the pro guys get it done lots faster, but......... you saved all those thousand dollar bills and best of all have the satisfaction of doing a great job YOURSELF!
I am NOT a bodyman, but might I add these comments. pros might suggest noting sand scatches where anything courser than 80 grit is used on a DA. I realize you used the long broad, so those were not a problem/ some people reading your write up might not note the difference in the longboard and the DA.
also, sounds like you use the filler on the bare metal. some advantages on applying filler over the epoxy primer instead. plenty of body guys still apply filler over bare metal round here too.
like you stress the key is lots of long board work getting it straight, time and muscle power! and yes that gold and black combo is KILLER!
 
Imagine trying to get the it straight on a Duster quarter panel that has dents with all that rounding and lines
That's were I am.
At what point does someone just give up and put a large patch in?
What was the longest board you used?
 
years back ( bout 1990) I had a 70 TA challenger I was struggling trying to get that body line on the door right.
a friend that was a bodyman was cruising the country side with with beer drinking buds. they stopped by and I had him fix IT. he was drunk on his ***,!!! but HE had it perfect in 5 min. I had been working on it for hours!!!!
that was just a door ding on that body line!!! like I have said, " I ain't a bodyman!"

so many people just consider rust problems, they never think about what it takes to fix dings and small dents!!!!!
 
congrats on a great job! to get it perfect, lots of work. the pro guys get it done lots faster, but......... you saved all those thousand dollar bills and best of all have the satisfaction of doing a great job YOURSELF!
I am NOT a bodyman, but might I add these comments. pros might suggest noting sand scatches where anything courser than 80 grit is used on a DA. I realize you used the long broad, so those were not a problem/ some people reading your write up might not note the difference in the longboard and the DA.
also, sounds like you use the filler on the bare metal. some advantages on applying filler over the epoxy primer instead. plenty of body guys still apply filler over bare metal round here too.
like you stress the key is lots of long board work getting it straight, time and muscle power! and yes that gold and black combo is KILLER!

Thanks barbee, I agree with you on the primer. Should have done the primer and then on to the filler. Oh Well! Lot of folks said change the color, but before I built the engine I had sand blasted the whole engine bay and painted it the Gold Poly. I am very please with the Gold and Black. Unbeknownst to me when I bought the car that the vinyl top was changed. The build sheet stated Green and Yellow Floral. A stinking Mod Top! Another Oh Well, long gone. Thanks again.
 
Imagine trying to get the it straight on a Duster quarter panel that has dents with all that rounding and lines
That's were I am.
At what point does someone just give up and put a large patch in?
What was the longest board you used?

adriver, yeah I can imagine on a Duster. Don't know where you draw the line. I guess once you get it down to metal and see what you are up against. That's when I made the decision. Longest board I used was a 30" flexible. I also used a long 4' straight edge and a 12" straight edge to see high spots and dips.
 
Thought I would share. Finished this September. Was no rust at all on the car, but had been thru parking lot wars for years. I knew I could not get the RH quarter straight, so I chopped it out. All work by myself....just like the rest of the car. Hundreds of hours of block sanding. Original Y8 Gold Poly, but went with a BC\CC......gallon of clear.[
 
Love the car,not some much the chevy hood.Again love the car , beautiful work..................................................Jeff
 
Great job... it looks very straight in the pic's. I am in the early stages of doing my barracuda. . Thanks for the inspiration. .
 
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