225 Long Rod Build Thread

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RustyRatRod

RustyRatRod

I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday.
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So ok, here is the start to my 225 long rod build. 225 block, 2.2 Chrysler non turbo 4 cylinder pistons, 198 rods. Block is all prepped and ready for mock up. I say mock up, because I need to double check the deck to get the right number to mill the deck for zero deck clearance. I know what the math says, but I'm kinda particular. I gotta SEE it to believe it. lol So here's the block. I also have a good crank now, thanks to @Dodge72. Thanks Katie!

SLANT BUILD.jpg
 
Subscribed! I wish I had another early A to use with my modified 225/833 and triple Weber’s!
 
Looks sweet! Can't wait to see how this turns out. And no problem, glad somebody found use for that crank!
 
Here is the long rod slant that I am building. KB 2.2L pistons, K1 cast crank rods, a last year ‘87 block and crank.
I had a very light clean up cut on the block deck, look close and you can still see the discoloring at the gasket water holes. That combined with having the crank line bored, the pistons are .005 out of the hole.

and here is a tip for you, while the block is apart, cut the manufacturing lugs off the top, cup plug side of the block. They serve no purpose now and will definitely interfere if you ever choose to run Dual Dutra's.

BB02C307-B815-46B0-A0BD-8D8913FF1E1F.jpeg


3D46046D-D986-4ADF-B917-26DF2050DA95.jpeg
 
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Badvert65 said:
Jeeze, what does this make your compression ratio?
Click to expand...

with an un cut 58 cc head, 10.6

and another tip,
the number written on the front of the case looks like the stock 2.2L bore size which is 3.445
that is only .015 above the stock slant six bore of 3.430
I used the 1.0 mm oversize 2.2L pistons. That gives a bore size of 3.484 which equates to a .054 overbore.
Gives a bit more bore to side of valve clearance to reduce valve shrouding when using OS valves.
 
This should be a cool build! Should make plenty of power to move an early A!

I've still got two complete 170cuin slants in the shop. I keep daydreaming about a 210cuin stroker! Should rev to the moon, if you can get a head hogged out enough!
 
FeMo said:
You dont have any 170 pushrods laying around you want to get rid of do ya...lol
Click to expand...
If you mill the head, in the neighbor hood of .100, and or cut the deck, you will most likely need custom shorter) length pushrods. On 225 engines, I have been able to use stock length push rods, but needed shorter ones on the 170 engines, with the same amount of cutting.
 
vntned said:
This should be a cool build! Should make plenty of power to move an early A!

I've still got two complete 170cuin slants in the shop. I keep daydreaming about a 210cuin stroker! Should rev to the moon, if you can get a head hogged out enough!
Click to expand...

Or power adder. I have had some of my stock short block 170's to about 7,000 rpm on juice. But I don't reccommend that except on rare occasions. Need some good internal pieces for repeated excursions up there.
 
RustyRatRod said:
So ok, here is the start to my 225 long rod build. 225 block, 2.2 Chrysler non turbo 4 cylinder pistons, 198 rods. Block is all prepped and ready for mock up. I say mock up, because I need to double check the deck to get the right number to mill the deck for zero deck clearance. I know what the math says, but I'm kinda particular. I gotta SEE it to believe it. lol So here's the block. I also have a good crank now, thanks to @Dodge72. Thanks Katie!

View attachment 1715342518
Click to expand...

Pulling all the stops, I like it !!!
 
my68barracuda said:
Here is the long rod slant that I am building. KB 2.2L pistons, K1 cast crank rods, a last year ‘87 block and crank.
I had a very light clean up cut on the block deck, look close and you can still see the discoloring at the gasket water holes. That combined with having the crank line bored, the pistons are .005 out of the hole.

and here is a tip for you, while the block is apart, cut the manufacturing lugs off the top, cup plug side of the block. They serve no purpose now and will definitely interfere if you ever choose to run Dual Dutra's.

View attachment 1715342792

View attachment 1715342793
Click to expand...

Thanks man! Wow that's gonna have a little squeeze, ain't it? lol
 
my68barracuda said:
with an un cut 58 cc head, 10.6

and another tip,
the number written on the front of the case looks like the stock 2.2L bore size which is 3.445
that is only .015 above the stock slant six bore of 3.430
I used the 1.0 mm oversize 2.2L pistons. That gives a bore size of 3.484 which equates to a .054 overbore.
Gives a bit more bore to side of valve clearance to reduce valve shrouding when using OS valves.
Click to expand...

That's correct. Just personal preference I guess. Plus, the biggest thing is, I already had the pistons. lol
 
George Jets said:
Pulling all the stops, I like it !!!
Click to expand...

I'm gonna either build it or find out why I caint. lol

I made a little baby step today. I put the slant chain set cam gear and the gear drive cam gear together and re-marked the gear drive cam gear. Also, I discovered the slant six and big block crank gears are marked the same. <rolls eyes> So go figure. HOWEVER, if you remember, I made the big block gear drive work by flipping the crank gear over, upside down, SO that means I had to re-mark the crank gear too, since that put the timing mark on the wrong side of the keyway. So I got "that much" figured out. lol You can see the new marks in what I call Kitty's "ho red" fingernail polish. LOL

CAM AND CRANK GEARS.jpg
 
I too am subscribed.
I like this. RRR does all the work, spends all the $$, and we all get the fun to watch and see the results!!!! I bet finding 198 rods is not so easy!
 
Just curious, do you have the Offenhauser 4 bbl intake manifold and new 340 dual coil valve spings for that long rod build yet ??
 
George Jets said:
Just curious, do you have the Offenhauser 4 bbl intake manifold and new 340 dual coil valve spings for that long rod build yet ??
Click to expand...

No. My original plan was for a much milder build with a fairly hot flat tappet solid (which I still have) and a super six setup. But I suddenly realized I had some solid roller lifters left over from another project "that might work" so I tried them and I believe they will, so that's why I decided to go solid roller. I have a factory aluminum Super SIx intake and a nice 318 Carter BBD core. I MIGHT put those on the 170, since it will be some time before the 225 build is done. Then again, they might get sold. lol
 
OK, was just wondering what direction you are going with all this. Will be watching this one come together.
Thanks . . .
 
George Jets said:
OK, was just wondering what direction you are going with all this. Will be watching this one come together.
Thanks . . .
Click to expand...

Forward still......although very slowly. Slowed down 400 more bucks to get Kitty's car repaired. lol
 
Bringing this back to the top, because I was finally able to send out a core to Oregon Cam to be reground. I decided on [email protected] on a 108. I haven't made my mind up about the gear drive. Even though I've got it to fit well and I am almost certain it will work and not fail, this factory closed chamber head is not worth taking a chance on being damaged if something goes wrong. So, I will likely run the JP/Rollmaster chain set that I have. Should have the cam back after a while, so I'll update again when I continue the assembly.
 
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Rusty, just wanted to mention that I have been daily driving the long rod slant that I built, has about 800 miles on the motor and it is doing fine.
Checked the cranking compression last week and got 180-180-180-180-185-185
I used the KB Hypereutectic pistons, K1 rods, my cam is [email protected]
 
my68barracuda said:
Rusty, just wanted to mention that I have been daily driving the long rod slant that I built, has about 800 miles on the motor and it is doing fine.
Checked the cranking compression last week and got 180-180-180-180-185-185
I used the KB Hypereutectic pistons, K1 rods, my cam is [email protected]
Click to expand...
That's pretty nasty. About like what I have right now. I'm hoping the quench I am getting with the closed chamber head is going to allow me to run the smaller cam I chose. I want the power band in the lower RPM range, as that's where the car spends most of its time. Hope you and the little lady are doing well. Please lets us know if yall come back through this way again. We'll have to grub somewhere!
 
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