225 slant 6 rebuild

[concrete52]

has me a 75 dart swinger - automatic - possibly going to the a833 - looking at rebuilding the engine - getting the good quality parts first then going to the machine shop for some machine work - its a driver fellas - looking at the comp cam 64-240-4 - .020 0versize pistons cause needs cylinder wall boreing - milling the heads a bit - block to head match? - crankshaft polishing - 3 angle grind on the valves - this is as far as i am now - can you fellas recomend other things that i should follow up on as far as machine work goes - and good quality parts for the rebuild - thanks

 

[1970Duster]

Yeah, adjustable rockers and a turbo setup. Plenty of cars have a turbo setup on it for just a daily driver. My buddy's STI for example but he also takes it to the track every once and a while, though again it is his daily driver.

 

[nm9stheham]

Yep, I would get my oil pump to Doug Dutra for a overhaul and to see if anything is marginal. Best way to get it done by far IMO.

New valve springs; stock ones can hadle up to about .435" lift and costs <$2 each , and the dual coil 340 springs for more lift don't cost that much more.

Make sure the block is checked for straightness. I would not worry about block to head match on a stock rebuild. Head and block crakc checks done and a good hot tank AND acid tank too if you have a lot of rust scaling inside the water jackets.

Perhaps a bit of of port matching at the manifolds but not a big worry either. Assemble and test fit the manifolds per the slantsix.org article and then have the joined intake/exhaust assembly ground flat for a good manifold seal.

Good timing chain set; you can get the parts individually from Cloyes for a double roller set. Look at a different distributor advance curve; that can be a tune after break-in thing. Super six setup.

Do a weight check of rod/piston assemblies to makes sure they are close in weight. If the shop presses on the psitons, they should do this.

Get moly-top pistons rings; they tend break in really easily and well.

 

[concrete52]

theres got to be more to it - looking at a neat hit list of things to do and get - doing me homework a bit at a time - flat top pistons ? correct cam? litt;e extra compression by shAVING DOWN THE HEADS ? THIS KIND OF STUFF

 

[CichliDart]

theres got to be more to it - looking at a neat hit list of things to do and get - doing me homework a bit at a time - flat top pistons ? correct cam? litt;e extra compression by shAVING DOWN THE HEADS ? THIS KIND OF STUFF

There is an eBayer that sells oversized valves for the slant six.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/225-Slant-S...ies&hash=item58be04a008&vxp=mtr#ht_424wt_1295

Also 340 valve springs for your slant head.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/225-slant-s...rts&hash=item5b0c1e9704&vxp=mtr#ht_254wt_1295

I have purchased these for a head rebuild, just have not gotten off my arse and pulled the head to do it yet.

Mike

 

[Darter6]

I've had as much as .125 removed from a slant head.The pistons are down in the bore quite a bit at top dead center. The Mike Jeffery (Slant racer and builder if you didn't know already) gave me his theory,, .100 of the head,.100 off the block and bore it .100 over to get you started.This all depends on your block sonic check of course.Now I am NOT saying this is what you should do but that it "can" be done.For a daily driver .030 to .060 is not a problem
The best thing is to get the pistons as close to zero deck as possible with milling and the pistons you chose.Try to achieve a good quench in the combustion chamber.A good engine machine shop will understand and help you with this.
nm9stheham's ideas are also very good. Doug Dutra did my pump blue print, you can't go wrong. This should get your head spinning.Alot can be done to make the Slant a good performer and stay streetable.