225 still running hot

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louieie

louieie

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running hot after idleing after about 10 minutes (replaced thermostat +cap+ water pump.) is this just because i should be at speed or is there something else i am missing or be worried about? any advice or ideas?

thank you-Louie
 
Is your fan rotating in the right direction? I had that problem when I bought a reverse direction after market flex fan lol
 
Make sure that the basic tune is spot on (timing, plugs etc). And, make sure that your temp readings are correct. Perhaps a gauge problem?
 
How about some basic info? What vehicle? stock or modified? Has this been from the first day you got the vehicle, or did it start after doing some work on the vehicle? Some of us are pretty darn good at diagnosing and fixing problems, but mind readers we are not.
 
Charrlie_S said:
How about some basic info? What vehicle? stock or modified? Has this been from the first day you got the vehicle, or did it start after doing some work on the vehicle? Some of us are pretty darn good at diagnosing and fixing problems, but mind readers we are not.
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(i’m a newbie) 73 duster, stock, first time running in 40 years (for more than 10+ minutes) was a few months ago, so not sure if this was always a problem or not
 
IMG_1602.png
Get yourself a flush gun, blast the rad, blast the heater core and blast the block til the water comes out clean.
 
louieie said:
(i’m a newbie) 73 duster, stock, first time running in 40 years (for more than 10+ minutes) was a few months ago, so not sure if this was always a problem or not
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OK, that is a start. Have you checked at just idling, or have you gone down the road. Does it run hot driving? Does the car have AC? does it have a clutch fan, does it have a fan shroud?
 
ok so regardless of any degradation. id certainly flush out the radiator heater matrix and block

its set up for the kinda fuel you could purchase 40 years ago. which i guess was unleaded fuel with little or no ethanol..
these days there is a good chance that it has some ethanol in it to raise octane, help with emissions and kinda act like an oxygenator. but it does make the fuel burn slower and in some circumstances hotter. both could make you car run hotter than you would like at idle.

find out its current initial timing. record it
add on 5 degrees to that. see how it runs at idle if it doesn't overheat as quickly, you have found the problem. you need more initial advance, don't drive it like that

set timing back to where it was.

now you would need to choose a method to get more timing in at idle without there being too much at 3000 rpm

easy route, to get you running and driving would be to put the vacuum advance on a carb pipe that always has vacuum one below the throttle blades, rather than one above the plate that has no vacuum at idle. (which is what most 1960-late 80s cars had)
This will cause the vacuum advance to pull in some advance at idle and that advance will fall away quickly as the throttle blades open. it might work very well it may not....

harder method is to recurve the distributor for a more effective advance curve that fits better with modern gasoline i.e more initial and a limit on total

Obviously this is an experiment to see what might be the issue...

Flushing out the cooling system comes first


Dave
 
Dave999 said:
easy route, to get you running and driving would be to put the vacuum advance on a carb pipe that always has vacuum one below the throttle blades, rather than one above the plate that has no vacuum at idle. (which is what most 1960-late 80s cars had)
This will cause the vacuum advance to pull in some advance at idle and that advance will fall away quickly as the throttle blades open. it might work very well it may not....




Dave
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That stupid distributer does not have a provision for vacuum advance,
 
No, It is an aftermarket high dollar ignition system. It uses a Chinese mad slant six electronic (copy cat) distributer with no vacuum advance (just centrifical) with a HEI type 4 pin module, and a round oil filled coil (not even an "E" coil). In my opinion a high dollar piece of snake oil.

Dodge Slant 6 Tri-Power Distributor – Performance Distributors

performancedistributors.com performancedistributors.com
 
get it hot and feel around the radiator, if it has hot/cold spots it could be clogged.. first thing to check since it takes seconds
 
yourhigh dollar snake oil dizzy could well have the internals of a vacuum advance dizzy and no vacuum advance in which case there may be little to stop the pickup ring moving.

worth just checking that it can't be moved back and forth. i have a similar distributor and chose not to use it because the pickup is not connected to anything and can be moved with your hand or some vibration. i.e the timing i set may not be the timing i get for very long

I gave up with it and am modifying a big head HEI copy designed for a jeep
will work on my Hemi 6 probably..... but your slant six dizzy is i believe too near a load of other things for it to be worth trying.

4mm of shim washers to get the bottom end the right length
i'll have to cut off the oil pump drive and fit a slant/ hemi drive gear
i have changed module rotor cap and suppression capacitor and wires to US parts store parts BorgWarner Standard etc
need to strip down to body casting to check it fits properly before cutting anything

IMG_0931.jpg
 
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With the radiator cap OFF, start the car and let it come up to temp, paying attention to when the thermostat opens. You'll be able to tell when the water in the upper tank gets hot. After the thermostat opens, get out of the way of the filler neck and reach in and rev the engine up. If it spews water up and out of the filler neck, you have a stopped up radiator and the coolant coming out of the engine has nowhere to go.
 
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