273/ 2 barrel camshaft options

[Dale Davies]

The bottom of the bore into the crankcase. Strange.

Check into Brian Salter Racing video and David Vizard Powertec 10. Good chance top winning racers do this, but any advantage they believe they have they are reluctant to divulge. They will talk about things that are kind of obsolete or otherwise we'll known among the upper echelon group.

 

[toolmanmike]

Check into Brian Salter Racing video and David Vizard Powertec 10. Good chance top winning racers do this, but any advantage they believe they have they are reluctant to divulge. They will talk about things that are kind of obsolete or otherwise we'll known among the upper echelon group.

Deburring sharp casting edges isn't a bad idea but so far below the piston travel I have a hard time believing would be any benefit.

 

[Dale Davies]

Deburring sharp casting edges isn't a bad idea but so far below the piston travel I have a hard time believing would be any benefit.

Believe as suits you.

 

[Dale Davies]

Hello forabodies community and thank you for welcoming me and my family!

(Warning: I am NEW to ANY Internet forums/ community and I tend to babel. I don’t know when to shut up so please feel free to correct me with keeping it short and sweet or over sharing)

I do have a detailed heartfelt story explaining the backstory to my individual background and the importance of the Barracuda that I am working on if anyone is interested in reading, not sure if this is the correct outlet for any storytelling, but the offer is on the table. (This car has been a part of my fathers life since he was 7 years old, the car “disappeared” for many years and after 10+ years of VERY difficult searching and legal matters, I was able to find and rescue the car in 2018. This is a family project with my two daughters in getting it safe and road worthy to surprise my dad when the time is right)

Currently, the 273 block and heads are at a local machine shop for a very light clean up and inspection for cracks or any potential build concerns.

(A quick blueprint: The engine is original, was rebuilt in 1985 with .040 bore, .020 on rods, .020 on mains (can still see clean, clear crosshatch on the cylinders and rod caps) I have the original build badge that was on the block for this information if that’s helpful. The car was driven for a few years after the rebuild. The trans reverse went out and the car was parked for 20+ years, until I found it)

As of right now I would like to keep it as factory/ basic as financially possibly because this is THE engine that my dad learned and worked on in is developing years. We are trying to avoid any unnecessary machine work, a refresh if you will, clean up and reassemble)

I disassembled the engine (I did take measurements first. I was able to get it to run briefly beforehand. It had oil pressure and compression was roughly 120 across the board, but sounded ugly in the lower end)

I was recently told by the machine shop that the cam “got hot” and is “trash” and here is my cry for help in joining forabodiesonly. The cam does show “pitting” please see pictures.

What are my options in either “repairing” the existing camshaft or replacing it without having to take out a loan. I have not been able to find another original 273 cam. Is there a direct swap out for just a cam or will it have to include replacing everything, pushrods, lifters, rockers and so on? What’s the risk of just reusing the cam and lifters as is?

I understand and respect that quality isn’t cheap. But this isn’t going to Pomona for drags and I won’t be looking for Milner to race for pinks, I’ll leave that up to Harrison Ford. It will be driven to take the family to get ice cream on the weekends and the occasional cruise for my dad.

Any information and or experience is greatly appreciated with help regarding the original camshaft or any other challenges this may present. What can be done or should be done? I have had very little luck on eBay or Craigslist in finding another original cam for solid lifters. If I need to share more pictures please let me know. I am willing and capable of receiving constructive criticism.

(If it helps, I’m in my late 30s, I’m a mechanic in the gas/oil fields in the Midwest, my mechanical experience came from working on chainsaws in a logging shop as a child into automotive machanic work on cars and trucks from the 50s, 60s and 70s and modern as a well… if I’m being honest to help put myself in your crosshairs I’m gonna say that I enjoy watching The Waltons, Vice Grip Garage and Uncle Tony’s Garage if that helps in introducing myself.

Again I apologize for the babbling and the long story. My daughters and I are excited to be a part of this community and we look forward to your participation. (I am a working man with a schedule so if I don’t respond or communicate clearly while I figure this out in chatting, forgive me while I learn the ropes. Thanks again and Bad Fish for Life!

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Give Engle Cams a call. Got good service from them whenI got the 351W cam. Good cams for the street with fairly high lift. Get new lifters and the valve springs they recommend.
310 - 450 - 0806
Let them know your build intentions. I did a LCA calculation for +.040 bore and 1.78 intake valves. Comes out to 106.5° LCA. With a short duration of 260° advertised, idle should be acceptable.

 

[Bewy]

For about the 3rd time in this thread, if you want your cam to last, have your factory lifters re-faced & do not buy 'new' lifters because new lifters means a crap shoot....
There are only a couple of FT lifter companies & they supply the cam companies. The name on the lifter box means nothing.....
Check out the Powell Machine company you tube videos on FT lifter failures....

 

[kmccabe56]

Hello forabodies community and thank you for welcoming me and my family!

(Warning: I am NEW to ANY Internet forums/ community and I tend to babel. I don’t know when to shut up so please feel free to correct me with keeping it short and sweet or over sharing)

I do have a detailed heartfelt story explaining the backstory to my individual background and the importance of the Barracuda that I am working on if anyone is interested in reading, not sure if this is the correct outlet for any storytelling, but the offer is on the table. (This car has been a part of my fathers life since he was 7 years old, the car “disappeared” for many years and after 10+ years of VERY difficult searching and legal matters, I was able to find and rescue the car in 2018. This is a family project with my two daughters in getting it safe and road worthy to surprise my dad when the time is right)

Currently, the 273 block and heads are at a local machine shop for a very light clean up and inspection for cracks or any potential build concerns.

(A quick blueprint: The engine is original, was rebuilt in 1985 with .040 bore, .020 on rods, .020 on mains (can still see clean, clear crosshatch on the cylinders and rod caps) I have the original build badge that was on the block for this information if that’s helpful. The car was driven for a few years after the rebuild. The trans reverse went out and the car was parked for 20+ years, until I found it)

As of right now I would like to keep it as factory/ basic as financially possibly because this is THE engine that my dad learned and worked on in is developing years. We are trying to avoid any unnecessary machine work, a refresh if you will, clean up and reassemble)

I disassembled the engine (I did take measurements first. I was able to get it to run briefly beforehand. It had oil pressure and compression was roughly 120 across the board, but sounded ugly in the lower end)

I was recently told by the machine shop that the cam “got hot” and is “trash” and here is my cry for help in joining forabodiesonly. The cam does show “pitting” please see pictures.

What are my options in either “repairing” the existing camshaft or replacing it without having to take out a loan. I have not been able to find another original 273 cam. Is there a direct swap out for just a cam or will it have to include replacing everything, pushrods, lifters, rockers and so on? What’s the risk of just reusing the cam and lifters as is?

I understand and respect that quality isn’t cheap. But this isn’t going to Pomona for drags and I won’t be looking for Milner to race for pinks, I’ll leave that up to Harrison Ford. It will be driven to take the family to get ice cream on the weekends and the occasional cruise for my dad.

Any information and or experience is greatly appreciated with help regarding the original camshaft or any other challenges this may present. What can be done or should be done? I have had very little luck on eBay or Craigslist in finding another original cam for solid lifters. If I need to share more pictures please let me know. I am willing and capable of receiving constructive criticism.

(If it helps, I’m in my late 30s, I’m a mechanic in the gas/oil fields in the Midwest, my mechanical experience came from working on chainsaws in a logging shop as a child into automotive machanic work on cars and trucks from the 50s, 60s and 70s and modern as a well… if I’m being honest to help put myself in your crosshairs I’m gonna say that I enjoy watching The Waltons, Vice Grip Garage and Uncle Tony’s Garage if that helps in introducing myself.

Again I apologize for the babbling and the long story. My daughters and I are excited to be a part of this community and we look forward to your participation. (I am a working man with a schedule so if I don’t respond or communicate clearly while I figure this out in chatting, forgive me while I learn the ropes. Thanks again and Bad Fish for Life!

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If you are keeping the 2V intake manifold and carburetor, ANY parts advertised as being for a 4V engine will be money wasted. The carburetor and intake won't provide enough air/fuel to take advantage of a performance oriented camshaft. ANY camshaft from any stock 318 is what you're looking for. Check Rockauto.com

Here's what comes up when you look for a camshaft for a 1979 Dodge Aspen with a 318-2V v8. The very first entry is "Stock Cam" replacement. Use that. It'll give you decent performance, decent fuel economy and is more or less matched to the rest of the engine.

I didn't realize that your engine was a Mopar reman unit. Wow, it was really baffed for the rebuilding to bore it out .040" and take the crankshaft .020" under on the rods and mains. Best way to look after this engine once you have it back together is oil changes at 3000 miles MAX, or once/year if you use it less. Also find your local Chevy dealer and ask them for their "Engine Oil Supplement" that they used to break in rebuilt engines. Modern oils do not have the manganese and phosphate that a flat tappet engine, like yours, requires. Yes, there are lots of aftermarket oils that claim to have extra phosphate in them and they charge through the nose for it. The GM product is under $10/bottle and one bottle will be enough for four oil changes. Other than that just use good quality name brand oil.