273 adjustable rocker arms

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NM9 I do believe that is what I said. If you subtract .010 from advertised lobe lift and do your math (multiply by rocker ration then minus lash unless it is hyd. cam) this will give you "true" actual lift at the valve. Works with any cam in the small block Mopar . Try this.
 
NM9 I do believe that is what I said. If you subtract .010 from advertised lobe lift and do your math (multiply by rocker ration then minus lash unless it is hyd. cam) this will give you "true" actual lift at the valve. Works with any cam in the small block Mopar . Try this.


I always check the rocker ratio on any engine I build. I keep a block close by for testing purposes only. The Mopar factory mechanical '273' rockers are very strong and durable, I find them in the 1.45 range. Best being 1.51 and worst 1.41 . Also with the pushrod and lifter not being 'in-plane' with each other loses .10 of lobe lift . Very easy to calculate actual lift at the valve with lash. Subtract .10 from the lobe lift from the cam card and multiply by rocker ratio and subtract lash puts actual lift within .001-.002 . Works
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That is post #30 where you said .10 twice.
 
"Also with the pushrod and lifter not being 'in-plane' with each other loses .10 of lobe lift"

I din't think you meant to say the the lifter-to-pushrod angle would cost .100" lobe lift but rather .010" lobe lift. And it is indeed a pretty good lobe lift loss number for the angle.....it works out almost spot-on for a valve lift of .450-.500", when compared to the cosine of the lifter-to-pushrod angle.

That angle effect is included in my final number, just done with the cosine of the angle (typically 14 degrees IIRC), rather than a fixed amount of compensation. I didn't compute the effect of lash for a solid lifter into my measured ratios.
 
What would it cost for the machine work to have this done?

...a few pic's of the process.. Offset bored, threaded, and spot faced.
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7/16 adjuster installed... this one is right at 1.6:1
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Looks like I can do them for about $10 a rocker, $160/set. (you supply the cleaned rockers and adjusters)
 
How is that ductile iron to work with?

It's not bad.. lock down the table, good sharp tool, lube....
on the other hand, if the rockers gall-up on the shafts, due to poor oiling, that is a completely different story.
It 'work hardens' the inside of the rocker where it galls up and it will destroy your hone. You have to get in there with a carbide bit and carefully knock out the galled up mess, then hone them.
 
It's not bad.. lock down the table, good sharp tool, lube....
on the other hand, if the rockers gall-up on the shafts, due to poor oiling, that is a completely different story.
It 'work hardens' the inside of the rocker where it galls up and it will destroy your hone. You have to get in there with a carbide bit and carefully knock out the galled up mess, then hone them.
Revisiting this as I am dealing with galled 273 rocker arms. My question is this. Is the galling a transfer of of the shaft to the rocker or the rocker to the shaft?
 
When do the 273 rockers need to be ground for clearance? I just purchased some Comp 901 springs and was wondering if the factory adjustabel rockers need to be ground for spring clearance (stock 340 cam).
273 adj rockers need ground to clear that
spring/keeper.
 
Revisiting this as I am dealing with galled 273 rocker arms. My question is this. Is the galling a transfer of of the shaft to the rocker or the rocker to the shaft?

Apologies for the tarty response... not getting notifications..
Transfer from shaft to rockers. But this transfer also work-hardens the 'galled' metal, making it difficult to remove. You practically have to carefully grind out the galled material before honing. Or you'll tear up your hone.
 
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