273 advise needed

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73Charger318 said:
I don't see a cam and lifter kit with the E-4 isky cam. Can you verify what lifters you used? Also if the original was solid lifter, how come when you search by year and make all 11 of the cam and lifter kits have hydraulic cams? I found that strange with the isky website.
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Here's what mine idles like.
 
73Charger318 said:
Thanks. Already replaced the oil/filter. Aways run VR1 racing oil in my older cars for the zinc. New plugs, wires, battery, and coil.

What should the carb be? I was getting ready to possibly rebuild it, but sounds like replacing it may be a better option. Not sure how to adjust valves. I tapped the full cylinder today lightly with a hammer to see if the needle jumped but stayed right at 22psi on #3 with 100psi going in. Sounds like most of it escaping at the intake. Freeze plugs are purchased, good idea on seals.

I was told the car was running three years ago but I haven't been able to get it running. Feeding gas from a jug I know I had spark, and know it was getting gas. Distributor was loose when I got it, I just tightened it down. Car could just be way out of timing. It never even sounded like it wanted to start. My goal is to at least get it running, even if rough! lol
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What are the numbers on the AFB? Should be 3854s for 1965, 4120s for 1966, or 4295s for 1967. All will work well. Sounds like intake valves are leaking. Find TDC on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor is under the #1 plug wire. Double check your plug wire positions, VR1 oil is good. That is what I have run for 40 years.
 
OP,
The Isky E-4 cam only part # is 390144. That comes from an Iskt Catalog [ remember them.....].
Do NOT buy new lifters unless you want to risk lobe/lifter failure. Instead, have your factory lifters re-faced.
 
toolmanmike said:
#390144 is the E4 cam number. The E4 must be a grind number. I have found it listed for Ford's as well. View attachment 1716262193
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Thanks, I had the cam located. Was just confused on what lifters since this cam isn't shown in any cam/lifter kit. This lifter keeps popping up, but count me out if these are $400 each. lol

Hardenable Iron Solid Lifter [3102H] - $400.00 : ISKY Racing Cams, Do It Right

ISKY Racing Cams Hardenable Iron Solid Lifter [3102H] - Hardenable Iron Solid Lifter For Use w/Chrysler Products
iskycams.com iskycams.com
 
Bewy said:
OP,
The Isky E-4 cam only part # is 390144. That comes from an Iskt Catalog [ remember them.....].
Do NOT buy new lifters unless you want to risk lobe/lifter failure. Instead, have your factory lifters re-faced.
Click to expand...
Perfect, scratching the new lifters idea. Will get factory ones refaced. Thanks.
 
66fs said:
What are the numbers on the AFB? Should be 3854s for 1965, 4120s for 1966, or 4295s for 1967. All will work well. Sounds like intake valves are leaking. Find TDC on the compression stroke and make sure the rotor is under the #1 plug wire. Double check your plug wire positions, VR1 oil is good. That is what I have run for 40 years.
Click to expand...
My carb number is 3858. It's back on the car for now. Still have visions of getting it started at some point before pulling the engine.

AI says carbs correct for that car:
Edelbrock Performer 1404 Carburetor: 500 CFM, 4 Barrel, Square Bore, Manual Choke Inlet
Holley 4160 Series 600 CFM 4 Bbl Carburetor
Holley 4150 Series Double Pumper 4 Bbl Carburetor

Anyone else ever asked AI car questions? pi.ai is free. I did catch it making a mistake saying the 65 Barracuda had a 13 digit VIN. lol

Can anyone verify the information that the VIN is on the firewall? I've been trying to locate it.

On a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda, you can find the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) in several locations:
  • The VIN is stamped on a plate that is attached to the left front door hinge pillar, which is visible when the driver's side door is open.
  • The VIN is also stamped on the vehicle's firewall, which is located in the engine compartment between the engine and the interior of the car.
  • The VIN may also be stamped on the frame rail, which can be found underneath the car.
 
73Charger318 said:
My carb number is 3858. It's back on the car for now. Still have visions of getting it started at some point before pulling the engine.

AI says carbs correct for that car:
Edelbrock Performer 1404 Carburetor: 500 CFM, 4 Barrel, Square Bore, Manual Choke Inlet
Holley 4160 Series 600 CFM 4 Bbl Carburetor
Holley 4150 Series Double Pumper 4 Bbl Carburetor

Anyone else ever asked AI car questions? pi.ai is free. I did catch it making a mistake saying the 65 Barracuda had a 13 digit VIN. lol

Can anyone verify the information that the VIN is on the firewall? I've been trying to locate it.

On a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda, you can find the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) in several locations:
  • The VIN is stamped on a plate that is attached to the left front door hinge pillar, which is visible when the driver's side door is open.
  • The VIN is also stamped on the vehicle's firewall, which is located in the engine compartment between the engine and the interior of the car.
  • The VIN may also be stamped on the frame rail, which can be found underneath the car.
Click to expand...
Im pretty sure one of those Holley carbs would have been on the 275 273 HP D Dart engines
 
The correct carb number for a 1965 273 Commando is a Carter AFB. #3853S is for the manual transmission and #3854S is for the automatic transmission. No Holley 4 barrels were used in 1965.
 
jeff alder said:
1965 Barracuda, Dart, Valiant, Coronet 273 V8 - Carter AFB Carburetor 3854S | eBay They are still pretty easy to find. Ebay has several from this refurbished one all the way down to a hundred dollar special
Click to expand...
I saw one on there this morning that looked like it had been in a fire and they wanted $250. lol. I have a guy that can rebuild one if I can find a decent one somewhere.

Can you see a VIN on the firewall on any of your 65's? I would like to find another location before my 551 inspection at the highway patrol. Part of the process to get a bonded title on this car.
 
73Charger318 said:
I saw one on there this morning that looked like it had been in a fire and they wanted $250. lol. I have a guy that can rebuild one if I can find a decent one somewhere.

Can you see a VIN on the firewall on any of your 65's? I would like to find another location before my 551 inspection at the highway patrol. Part of the process to get a bonded title on this car.
Click to expand...
I think all of mine are 4 gear but as you know I have so much crap I might have one in one of the piles. Ill try and catch up this weekend and move it to your pile if I find one. LOL
 
73Charger318 said:
My carb number is 3858. It's back on the car for now. Still have visions of getting it started at some point before pulling the engine.

AI says carbs correct for that car:
Edelbrock Performer 1404 Carburetor: 500 CFM, 4 Barrel, Square Bore, Manual Choke Inlet
Holley 4160 Series 600 CFM 4 Bbl Carburetor
Holley 4150 Series Double Pumper 4 Bbl Carburetor

Anyone else ever asked AI car questions? pi.ai is free. I did catch it making a mistake saying the 65 Barracuda had a 13 digit VIN. lol

Can anyone verify the information that the VIN is on the firewall? I've been trying to locate it.

On a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda, you can find the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) in several locations:
  • The VIN is stamped on a plate that is attached to the left front door hinge pillar, which is visible when the driver's side door is open.
  • The VIN is also stamped on the vehicle's firewall, which is located in the engine compartment between the engine and the interior of the car.
  • The VIN may also be stamped on the frame rail, which can be found underneath the car.
Click to expand...
LOL, There is no intelligence in AI. the 3858s AFB is for a 1965, 413 cu in big block, in a C-Body. Not even close for a 273. You should be able to get it running if it is in decent shape though. It is jetted too rich and has no velocity valve in the secondary. Additionally the correct AFB carbs for the CAP automatic transmission 273's are 1966 4122s and 1967 4305s.

I do not believe the Edelbrock carbs will fit without a spacer since the secondary bores will not open fully because of the small bores in the OEM intake. the air cleaner will not fit either.

I don't like Holley carbs and they will need an adapter as well as a different air cleaner and MOPAR throttle adapter.
 
66fs said:
LOL, There is no intelligence in AI. the 3858s AFB is for a 1965, 413 cu in big block, in a C-Body. Not even close for a 273. You should be able to get it running if it is in decent shape though. It is jetted too rich and has no velocity valve in the secondary. Additionally the correct AFB carbs for the CAP automatic transmission 273's are 1966 4122s and 1967 4305s.

I do not believe the Edelbrock carbs will fit without a spacer since the secondary bores will not open fully because of the small bores in the OEM intake. the air cleaner will not fit either.

I don't like Holley carbs and they will need an adapter as well as a different air cleaner and MOPAR throttle adapter.
Click to expand...
Yes, I had to have the secondary bores in the intake machined larger and I bought a cheap air cleaner just for the base so I could use the OEM Charger 273 air cleaner.
 
I lucked out and found alum pipe that fit for an adapter perfectly for Eddy to oem Commando air breather. Can't even tell it's there. I may still have some left somewhere.
 
66fs said:
LOL, There is no intelligence in AI. the 3858s AFB is for a 1965, 413 cu in big block, in a C-Body. Not even close for a 273. You should be able to get it running if it is in decent shape though. It is jetted too rich and has no velocity valve in the secondary. Additionally the correct AFB carbs for the CAP automatic transmission 273's are 1966 4122s and 1967 4305s.

I do not believe the Edelbrock carbs will fit without a spacer since the secondary bores will not open fully because of the small bores in the OEM intake. the air cleaner will not fit either.

I don't like Holley carbs and they will need an adapter as well as a different air cleaner and MOPAR throttle adapter.
Click to expand...
Sounds like I need to look harder for a carb. I believe you're correct that the edelbrock will need an adapter. I want the air cleaner to fit for sure. Who knows when this remanufactured 3858 was stuck on the car. I'll sell it as soon as I can find a 3854S. Thanks.
 
Will watch your thread. Us 273 drivers are getting rarer.

Is this an automatic or manual trans? That makes a difference for model numbers on carb & distributor. I changed to a 4 barrel intake and put an Edelbrock 1403 carb with electric choke on my '65 273, with an automatic trans, in my van and added dual exhaust. I used a small spacer under the carb and a larger, generic air filter, but my van is not factory anyway. Make your car the way you want it, and be practical, is my advice. Remember that high octane fuel is not available anymore. If you plan on building a racer, then costs will be high.

Definitely pull the spark plugs and read them, then time it statically, and check that the vacuum advance will hold a vacuum. With the plugs out, turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the crank shaft and adjust the valves cold. Solid lifter rocker arms need to be watched and adjusted regularly. If the threads on the adjuster bolts or in the rocker arms get loose to where they don't stay put, the valve won't open correctly, and you could get a bent push rod and engine damage. Don't try to run it if it has a bent push rod. Also ensure that the timing chain is not worn out and that it has not slipped a cog. It won't run if that has happened.

There has been some good advice in this thread already. I suggest getting a factory service manual (not just an owner's manual) for your car, if you plan on keeping it. They can be downloaded online.

Best wishes, Richard.
 
Richard Sweet said:
Will watch your thread. Us 273 drivers are getting rarer.

Is this an automatic or manual trans? That makes a difference for model numbers on carb & distributor. I changed to a 4 barrel intake and put an Edelbrock 1403 carb with electric choke on my '65 273, with an automatic trans, in my van and added dual exhaust. I used a small spacer under the carb and a larger, generic air filter, but my van is not factory anyway. Make your car the way you want it, and be practical, is my advice. Remember that high octane fuel is not available anymore. If you plan on building a racer, then costs will be high.

Definitely pull the spark plugs and read them, then time it statically, and check that the vacuum advance will hold a vacuum. With the plugs out, turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the crank shaft and adjust the valves cold. Solid lifter rocker arms need to be watched and adjusted regularly. If the threads on the adjuster bolts or in the rocker arms get loose to where they don't stay put, the valve won't open correctly, and you could get a bent push rod and engine damage. Don't try to run it if it has a bent push rod. Also ensure that the timing chain is not worn out and that it has not slipped a cog. It won't run if that has happened.

There has been some good advice in this thread already. I suggest getting a factory service manual (not just an owner's manual) for your car, if you plan on keeping it. They can be downloaded online.

Best wishes, Richard.
Click to expand...
Thanks Richard,

I have an automatic. Chatting with a guy with a 3854S on eBay but he doesn't seem interested in coming off his crazy high price. I'm in no hurry, it will be at least August before I can even start the engine rebuild. No plans to build any racer for sure. Even keeping the stock 13's. lol. Did have success this morning getting the second of four drums loose. Now I can at least do the back brakes. Both fronts still stuck on.

Replaced plugs and wires already. I'll check the vacuum advance, good idea. Not sure how to adjust valves. Even trying to find TDC with a piston stop yesterday was a challenge. When I tapped the stop and reversed direction to make my second mark the crank bolt I'm turning the engine with actually came loose. Not sure what's going on there yet.

Good idea on a factory service manual. I have the parts catalog downloaded but no service manual. Anyone have a link to that download?
 
jeff alder said:
Did you see the gas tank out of that wreck? LOL...We are working out some parts issues together and with guys like you helping, me trying and a cast of thousands I bet we can all get this old girl back on the road Hero. My first car was a 67 v8 4 gear Barracuda. 43 years later I look forward to spring weather and backing old blue the 65 out of the garage for her first breath of fresh spring air and then letting her cackle that first breath out of her exhaust. She's always on a liquid diet and ready to roar. This old red gem from Missouri would be a great car to start a build thread with!
Click to expand...
Pretty sure Red is from Texas he said.....
 
73Charger318 said:
Thanks. Already replaced the oil/filter. Aways run VR1 racing oil in my older cars for the zinc. New plugs, wires, battery, and coil.

What should the carb be? I was getting ready to possibly rebuild it, but sounds like replacing it may be a better option. Not sure how to adjust valves. I tapped the full cylinder today lightly with a hammer to see if the needle jumped but stayed right at 22psi on #3 with 100psi going in. Sounds like most of it escaping at the intake. Freeze plugs are purchased, good idea on seals.

I was told the car was running three years ago but I haven't been able to get it running. Feeding gas from a jug I know I had spark, and know it was getting gas. Distributor was loose when I got it, I just tightened it down. Car could just be way out of timing. It never even sounded like it wanted to start. My goal is to at least get it running, even if rough! lol
Click to expand...
Always start timing by pulling the #1 plug on a Mopar and stuffing a rag in the hole - turn over until it pops out - look at the degree marks on the dampner and alignment pointer should be close to TDC - then look to be sure the rotor on the dist is pointing to # 1 - spark - fuel - compression and fire it up. Rings could be "closed" making no compression but there's a little fix for that....
 
stillrunners said:
Pretty sure Red is from Texas he said.....
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Yes, had Texas plates, last known registration was in Texas in 1992. Pretty sure a military guy, found an army hospital medical card under the backseat when I pulled that out.
stillrunners said:
Ross has made them but exspensive - what's wrong with yours - why not new rings ?
Click to expand...
I hope nothing is wrong with mine, I plan to use the pistons in the engine now. Read somewhere you can change out the wrist pins for 318 pins for a little upgrade while in there.
 
73Charger318 said:
I hope nothing is wrong with mine, I plan to use the pistons in the engine now. Read somewhere you can change out the wrist pins for 318 pins for a little upgrade while in there.
Click to expand...

318 piston pins are too long, besides you would mess up your balance. Commando pins are not the thick wall pins like a 2 barrel piston.
 
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