273 copper head gaskets SCE

-
toolmanmike said:
If I ever have to take mine apart I might cam up to a T-3. I have a E-4 simply because it's close to a stock 273-4 barrel cam. Mine is 10 or so years since rebuild.
Click to expand...
anyone out there building a 273 You will love this cam .. with some compression.
 
here is an up to date pic of my 65 formula S 273 4 speed Beast ! just tangled with this 67 cuda with built 340 4 speed x head and had no issues coming out ahead . If you know what I mean LOL.. " The Under Dog " !

246385562_311722616983203_7214626194564188517_n.jpg
 
I bet that Isky T3 works well in the other 3.31 stroke engines with decent compression, too!
 
Last edited:
I ran copper head gaskets with an o-ringed 273 block with a touch over 12.0 to 1 compression ratio. This was back in the late sixties and I got them from Ed Hamburger. He suggested o-ringing the block and running the copper gaskets because I was continually blowing the shim steel and composite gaskets. The reason was the SBM only has 10 head bolts per side.
 
My understanding with copper head gaskets is they must use wire o-rings in the block in order to seal. Has that somehow changed?
 
I’m guessing that it may be a little more complicated than just wire…
I’m guessing those have fire rings that are made from stainless steel tubing that are welded together in a very high pressure (I don’t remember the exact pressure, but over 1,000 psi IIRC) inert gas environment.
 
Well today I got both heads off. The driver side didn't show any really flaws but why was it steaming out that exhaust pipe? Both head gaskets were the same brand made by Mopar, some nos junk off the internet .
 
stroker402 said:
Well today I got both heads off. The driver side didn't show any really flaws but why was it steaming out that exhaust pipe? Both head gaskets were the same brand made by Mopar, some nos junk off the internet .
Click to expand...
Have them crack checked
 
I will have the heads milled straight and use Mr gasket 1121g head gaskets the black ones.
 
I had torque them previously at 95 ft lb and went back over and checked the driver's side to see what they were at and some of them didn't even register 95 foot pounds somehow they loosened up that's why I'm going heat sink the engine and then re torque the heads
 
stroker402 said:
I had torque them previously at 95 ft lb and went back over and checked the driver's side to see what they were at and some of them didn't even register 95 foot pounds somehow they loosened up that's why I'm going heat sink the engine and then retard the heads
Click to expand...
Re torque
 
I don't have any idea how the rebuild or procedure was done. Something as simple as crud build up in the bottom of the bolt holes could cause your issue. Just sayin. It's not a head gasket issue I don't think.
 
I blew all the oil or water out of the bolt holes. I did not chase the thread holes because it was just recently done a couple months ago. Also I checked the alignment pins dolls and there's plenty of room for clearance.
 
Things I'd do first to prep any old seasoned block that I was going to hotrod up some. Besides reboring that is.
  • I'd square deck the block. You may find the decks are far out of square to the crank and not as flat as you think too. So....
  • I'd mill the heads.
  • Make sure the alignment dowel pin holes are not half drilled or filled with crud. I found this on a 273 once. The heads dowel hole in the head was staggered/galled and the dowel would bottom before the head would clamp down.
  • I'd chase the threads with a "NEW" sharp tap of good quality HSS Steel. Not the old tap laying in the bottom of the tool box for the last 25 years.
  • Use ARP head bolts with their Moly lube.
So many 273's and 318's I have done, I'd never use a 340/360 head gasket. Even at 11:1 ratio I never had one fail using the OEM 318 gaskets if the prep was done well.

To me, the story reads like the PREP work was lackadaisical. The photo's in post #34 kind of show this as the heads were not clamped down on the 2 bores.

And a question for stroker 402, Why ask for help and then RED X posts #7 and #9??? You will tend not to get any more help if you do this.
 
The RED X isn't all bad. Sometimes, information isn't correct (although there are several here who's tech information I regard as empirical law, and they'll even tell you they're still learning!). But at other times, it serves for inspiration. I think I'm going to have to find out how much these old NOS gaskets can take with a set of studs holding the heads on.
 
Last edited:
stroker402 said:
anyone use these copper head gaskets for there sb mopars made by SCE ? opinions please . specifically looking for 273 high compression head gaskets to use instead of composite . or cometic MULTI-LAYER head gaskets .
Click to expand...
I've ran copper heads gaskets for many years, 25+ and never blew a head gasket. O-ring the block, use studs, and use Hylomar around the water jackets. They don't require a special RM finish like cometic ones do, better heat transfer between the block and head, nearly impossible to burn out or blow out, re-usable, can get them in any thickness you want, hold torque values better than regular gaskets. Can't think of any reason not to use them in a high compression high horsepower high rpm smallblock unless you are starting with everything brand new and can machine the heads and block for the multi layer type gasket.
 
I like that set up ... That sounds like the way to go .. but NOT now on this 273 .. maybe the next one sitting on the engine stand .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top