chrissock
Well-Known Member
This helps a ton!! I will look at the pics closer when I get to a computer but is the bottom pully two groovs or three? I know later motors had three grooves on the crank pully for smog pump right?
Yep, the 727 is overkill for your application. The Paxton is going to eat HP and so is a 727.
I would stick with 904. 727 robs to much power but stoked to see the build
How much more power does the 727 use over the 904?
You state the Paxton will eat power. How much HP is required to turn the unit?
The answer is a lot less than most people guess. But if you in fact have numbers, I'd like to know.
Same question as above. ^^^^
How much more power does the 727 use over the 904?
You state the Paxton will eat power. How much HP is required to turn the unit?
The answer is a lot less than most people guess. But if you in fact have numbers, I'd like to know.
Same question as above. ^^^^
Boring.......Where the hell is the pics?????
Chrissock, I think I'm on your page? Do what you can with what you got and skip the extra costs associated with getting a newly well built trans, drive prop shortening, etc....
Even though there is power to be found in a different trans and maybe even a rear, the list goes on and on about what could be done. Of course, the Internet spending your money and the actual reality are two vastly different pockets.
Build on brother! Build on!
Have a look at this thread and see Bill Dedman's post where he talks about what he learned from a guy who has a lot of Torqueflite experience - 273's tend to wind high, so, that bit about 'above 6000 RPM' may be relevant to your build:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-50518.html
Also, this thread is interesting:
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/archive/index.php/t-288545.html
The early 273 crank used a smaller register for the torque convertor. Better factor that in, or check it to know what you have. Otherwise I'd say go 727, especially for the street and cost difference.
This helps a ton!! I will look at the pics closer when I get to a computer but is the bottom pully two groovs or three? I know later motors had three grooves on the crank pully for smog pump right?
Hahaha well there is not much to post pics of YET. But stay tuned. My goal is to have this thing running by Christmas. And I most of the pieces just got ordered. I will though.
Not sure I follow. It's a 68' engine. Here is a pic of the casting number. From what I gather it's a cast version.
chrissock said:]I've spent most of the morning looking at head gaskets for this thing. I'm going to put ARP studs in it but I really don't need a thin gasket. Just want something that's going to hold the extra cylinder pressure. Also most gaskets say they will work for 318 to 360 but I'm assuming that's only because the bore hole is larger than my little 4" hole. Any thoughts on a good gasket before I pull the trigger?
The hole in the back of the crankshaft, that the torque convertor hub fits into, is smaller on the early 273 forged cranks. You should be fine if you are running a 68 crank. It is easier to check now than when you are trying to mate the transmission up and can't figure why it won't go together. Or worse force it together.
I believe there's only a 21 HP drive train loss between the 904 (24HP) and 727 (45HP) not a big deal for a street car, interesting plan.
Do you mean that it takes 21HP to drive the 904 & 45HP to drive the 727?