3.23 3rd Member

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R0K3_B3aRd

R0K3_B3aRd

Man with a Master plan.
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Yea i just bought a Open 3.23 3rd member for $175 to go into my 742 8 3/4 rearend housing. I was wondering should i get the suregrip or leave it as is. Putting it into my 65 cuda once i get a bigger engine. Also what does it mean by its open 3.23?? Im not racing or anything i just want a fast street car which is why I'm building the rearend. Thanks
 
R0K3_B3aRd said:
Yea i just bought a Open 3.23 3rd member for $175 to go into my 742 8 3/4 rearend housing. I was wondering should i get the suregrip or leave it as is. Putting it into my 65 cuda once i get a bigger engine. Also what does it mean by its open 3.23??
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An "open" rear end will not lock up and power both wheels as a Sure Grip will. Sometimes referred to as a "peg leg" rear end, it will put down one stripe instead of two. Note: When converting from an open to a locking rear, it will be necessary to reset the pinion/ring gear lash.
 
2 Darts said:
An "open" rear end will not lock up and power both wheels as a Sure Grip will. Sometimes referred to as a "peg leg" rear end, it will put down one stripe instead of two. Note: When converting from an open to a locking rear, it will be necessary to reset the pinion/ring gear lash.
Click to expand...
whats better??
 
open is a "one wheel peel" meaning as others said only one tire will spin. So a sure grip will spin both at the same time meaning better traction and getting down the road faster "once you get it to hook up to the road and actually move"

so a sure grip in essence is better but it dont always mean its going better than a open in ur situation.

you say ur building a bigger motor so that means more tire spinning power to the road. So at the end of the day i think its safe to say most of us would prefer a sure grip( im looking at them right now lol) and spinning both wheels at the same time.

there are many other areas of ur car to look at and upgrade to make sure you make the best possible use. And not only getting as much power to the ground but being safe and not breaking **** is equally important
 
Doing the one-wheel peel, is very hard on the cross-pin, and pinions, and even the case. Eventually theres a good chance that the cross-pin retaining bolt will fail, sending the pin out the rear, or locking the entire rear-end up. This happens more often in the 7.25, than in the 8.75. A one-wheel peel, puts that wheel spinning at twice what the speed-o says, and all that rpm can build some heat andput it right into the cross-pin and pinions. I have seen a few seized up chunks.
So what's Better?
IMO, a sure grip of some kind, for sure, is better.
 
Years ago one of the Hot Rodding Magazines did an article called $1.98 posi. It was a 9 inch Ford they were using but the principle is the same. I recently purchased a set of Ford spider shims and will soon check them in an 8.75 to see if they will work or if I have to make my own. DOAZ 4230-B is the part #. The idea is to preload the spiders enough to make them stiffer. I don't recall all the specifics but it did work for a while.
88spdrgrkit.jpg
 
Mguner, you are correct.Very OLD SCHOOL shimming the spiders to make them tighter. You musta' been around for awhile,or know someone who is, (was).
 
R0K3_B3aRd said:
whats better??
Click to expand...
It depends. For racing, straight line, roundy-round, or road course, IMO, a locking differential is best. I also think it is good for street with a big but. But...When a locking differential equipped car spins both wheels on a crowned road, the rear end will head for the curb. On a peg leg car, the transfer is not nearly as dramatic
 
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