3 random questions

-
72ScampTramp

72ScampTramp

Scamp Tramp
Joined
Jan 13, 2009
Messages
4,406
Reaction score
172
Location
Fort Dodge Iowa
First this area on the head is there suppose to be something that covers this if so what?

Second how to remove these studs without breaking them?


Last on the tunnel ram which way should it face? I notice that the carb pads one side is taller then the other?
 

Attachments

  • head.jpg
    75.5 KB · Views: 302
  • studs.jpg
    83.1 KB · Views: 293
  • engine.jpg
    88 KB · Views: 290
i usually double nut those studs and back them out with a wrench. i haven't broken one yet. just take it slow and carefully.


the higher carb plate is the rear one i believe.
 
As far as I can tell from your photo, the intake is on backwards. If the engine is sitting level on a stand, the carb mounting should be downhill towards the front of the engine.
 
Kinda what I had thought but having never owned one I wasnt sure and it looked like it would bolt up either way. Thanks fellas.
 
those studs are a *****. i just tried to remove mine and i ended up stripping one with the double nut method. i had to take a pair of vice grips to it . they go into water jackets. i would just leave them in or have a shop remove them. and Dels right , the intake is on backwards. the heat riser holes on the heads dont need anything covering them.
 
They all go into water jacket on a big block. I have broken enough old ones that I like to replace them all before starting. Soak in PB Blaster or similar for a while and you'll have a better chance of getting them out without breaking.
 
Jim Lusk said:
They all go into water jacket on a big block. I have broken enough old ones that I like to replace them all before starting. Soak in PB Blaster or similar for a while and you'll have a better chance of getting them out without breaking.
Click to expand...

I did know these led to water jackets. I do plan to run headers is it best to run header bolts or some type of stud? I can see the benefit of studs if you have to remove the headers you wouldnt have coolant running like you would with bolts?
 
bOb shingler said:
if you can get the headers on and off with the studs, leave them in the heads.
Click to expand...

Agree, unless a tube bend prevents you from using them or some of them, keep them. It's easier to hang the header on and all you have to do is notch the gaskets to drop them in place.
 
Ive broke enough of them studs that nowadays I always heat them up with my little MAPP gas torch, smack the end of the stud with a hammer, the two nut them off. Never had a problem since I started doing that.
 
I found a site years ago that did a comparison of rusty bolt removal. All the store bought stuff was outperformed by a solution of %50 acetone and %50 percent ATF. I mix it up in a harbor freight $2.00 oil can and give it away. Soak the studs with it and use a snap-on stud puller. Works every time and no drama. Try it.
 
QK TIME said:
Ive broke enough of them studs that nowadays I always heat them up with my little MAPP gas torch, smack the end of the stud with a hammer, the two nut them off. Never had a problem since I started doing that.
Click to expand...
I use the same method, works perfect!
 
Well this is an older thread. I did get them out. Had one stubborn one. I ended up using a pipe wrench to back it out.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top