Casca 2525
Well-Known Member
don't put a 2 sheave 100 amp alt on a single sheave slant six
30, 41, 46, 50 amp alternators? Yeah RIGHT
- Thread starter TylerW
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The only issues with this is the OEM wiring if you add other electronic load to the stock wiring.
Then the 100 Amp alt, can provide too much current to the existing wires if the load is there
Then the 100 Amp alt, can provide too much current to the existing wires if the load is there
The rotor will likely draw too much current for the field circuit of any factory wiring. Although in theory the 'on' time will be shorter, assuming the regulator can cycle that fast.
AFAIK there never was a 100 amp alternator option for any of these cars. I vaguely recall seeing a listing for Leece -Neville alternators for ambulances but don't recall whether that was even for a Crhysler product.
Bewy and Townsend both touch on the likely thinking. Its worth the savings in copper to make 1000s of cars with alternators that have smaller diameter wire or less windings in the rotors and stators. But when replacements are needed, the savings in production and inventory negate the savings in copper and/or the extra cost is covered by the customer.
Chrysler put Leece Neville alternators in police cars and some trucks in the early 1970's. They were much larger than Chrysler alternators, and required special brackets and a special additional harness with #8 wire. Plus an ammeter shunt. [trailer tow package or plow package]? .....65 amp. rating.
They also made a 100 amp alternator in the late 1970's. I never saw one, but it's smaller than a Leece from the picture.
They also made a 100 amp alternator in the late 1970's. I never saw one, but it's smaller than a Leece from the picture.
Years ago, back in 1976, I fried my bulkhead connector and underdash wiring when the radio was played way too long before an hour's drive home. Back then, wiring was just a junkyard away. But I did buy 8 GA wire to jump between the alternator and battery relay post which shunted most of the current away from the bulkhead connections. No problems since.
When I restored my '68's engine compartment, I was advised by the company doing my restoration work that Battery Cables USA was the place to go to get solid wiring. Battery Cables - Custom Made Battery Cables
They did a wonderful job adding new cables and ground straps to everything. The new paint was thick enough to make grounding less reliable, so we ran grounding straps to key components. Its hard to see, but here are shots of the wiring as it stands now. The dual fans are being fed directly from the alternator output and will be controlled by separate sensors.
When I restored my '68's engine compartment, I was advised by the company doing my restoration work that Battery Cables USA was the place to go to get solid wiring. Battery Cables - Custom Made Battery Cables
They did a wonderful job adding new cables and ground straps to everything. The new paint was thick enough to make grounding less reliable, so we ran grounding straps to key components. Its hard to see, but here are shots of the wiring as it stands now. The dual fans are being fed directly from the alternator output and will be controlled by separate sensors.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
The rotor contains the coil winding that is the field. This is a fairly low current circuit. The voltage regulator turns the field current on and off to control the battery charging voltage. The field wiring is fairly small wires. When you require a larger alternator to power accessories the output wire to the battery and the ammeter should be upgraded to match the greater current output. The higher current capability is in the design of the stator for the most part.
Define low current. You need to measure it, then post up your results. Add them to mine which I've posted previously.
My definition was that the current is lower or higher relative to the circuit wiring. That includes the control device, which at least in the mechanical versions, actually has three positions. The third one is through resistor.
The only reason to increase the battery wires (R6A, and the A1 wires) isif items are running when the engine is not running. That will cause (a) the circuit to see longer, more continuous loads (b) the battery to get get drawn down further and more frequently. The latter will then result in higher charging rates for any given size battery. In short, the original wiring strategy doesn't really suit electric fans, HEI, big stereo amps, or electric winches. The Heavy duty fleet option wiring splits the battery recharging load in the engine bay, as does the standard '75and '76 A-body arrangements. The heavy duty options to go with rear window grid also splits off the battery rechaging load. These all used heavier wiring, sometimes two fusible link locations, and a heavier battery.
Given a power supply with a fixed voltage, the recharge rate depends on the battery state of charge and temperature. This is the basic situation that has to be dealt with whenever recharging with an alternator. Its why one should not use the alternator to recharge a dead or nearly dead battery unless there is no other choice.
Charging Battery with Alternator - Warning
We've discussed this here more than a few times. Usually about how easy it can be to cook the battery or overloading the charge wiring. Here's another reason. "Any attempt to charge a low battery by the alternator will result in stator windings burning out" ebay item # 222689173585 This is...
www.forabodiesonly.com
Great example. Thank you for sharing.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Exactly. The thing is the field current is relatively low as compated to charging current. Similar to an ignition coil but that is volts. 12v × primary amps = secondary v × amps. Primary amps is not a lot but secondary amps is miniscule.
As Dolly Parton quipped after a notable clothing failure on stage: "its like my daddy always told me, never try to put ten pounds of flour in a five pound sack..."
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