Things to avoid in this build:
1. Ported head
2. Intercooler
3. fuel injection
4. O-rings
5. 4bbls
6. Headers
7. Race gas
Well, that is a lot of money saved if none of that stuff is necessary for a viable 300 hp, turbo slant six powerplant, but if you don't HAVE any of those items onboard, what kind of performance could you expect out of a 3,300-pound (including driver weight) A body?
And, what could you use to get it???
How about 12.95 @ 104 in a car that weighs 3,300 pounds, with driver??
Here's my suggestion:
Any year slant six block, freshly bored to 3.445"
A water/alky injector... they are not cheap, but are more insurance... and allow more boost. (This motor should see 15, maybe 20 pounds; no more.)
Six Wiseco pistons, PN PT112A45 $423.28 on ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-PT11...t-Chrysler-225-Slant-6-1-625-CH-/311238766968)
Six K-1 rods, DH7005BEH86 ebay=http://www.ebay.com/itm/K1-007BF20700-H-Beam-Connecting-Rods-Chrysler-Slant-6-7-005-in-For-Forged-Crank-/271866455377?hash=item3f4c80e551&vxp=mtr $577.00, or Molnar rods for $507.00
So, that's a lot of money, but it gives you a lot of protection from detonation... always.
The head will need to be checked for straightness, but here is where I suggest you "cheap out." Pay to have the 1.75" intake and 1.5" exhaust valves installed, but do NOT spend money on a porting job. I think, given the parameters of this engine's activities (low boost, forever,) it would be a waste of money. It would run better ported, sure, but that is $1500.00 you could save by just turning up the boost a little, I think.
NO O RINGS! Victor Rienz has a new MLS gasket that should fill the bill on cylinder sealing on this low boost engine.
Holley 2350, 500cfm carb and a Super Six intake (cheap!) with the Hangar 18 mods to the carb... a DIY job, with explicit instructions on the internet.
Stock ignition system, except for a different curve, giving a maximum of 18 degrees of boost whenever there is ANY boost present! OK to use a vacuum cannister for more advance, cruising...
Some reasonably-priced, used, Buick GN turbo, maybe from a junk yard. You're on your own here, because what I DON'T know about turbochargers, would fill several large volumes... sorry. The one on my car was given to me from a guy who said it was identical to the one on his car, a 1987 Buick T-Type (GN) that runs in the tens... It's a 66mm, Turbonetics, non ball-bearing unit. That's all I can tell you; so, Im an idiot... we knew that.
Stock lubrication system.
Stock cam, pushrods but, with 340 springs
Pishta J-pipe exhaust, with a dial-your-own 3" exhaust and tail pipe. Muffler, optional...
Stock 904 and converter.
Stock oil pan.
Stock everything else.
What do you think? Could this be done for around $2,000.00? $2,500.00??? $3,500,00?
A 300 hp motor that will have impeccable road manners (driveability,) last a long time, get decent gas mileage, and still have enough grunt to put the car into the high twelves at well over 100 mph, if you want to have some fun with it!
This is my personal pipe dream, but I honestly think it's do-able.
What do you guys think?:twisted:
PS Don't even THINK about trying this project without a wideband A/F meter.. it would be like standing a live earthworm on end... you'd nevwer get it done.... never.
One caveat; leaded gasoline is death to these meters... $91.00-worth..... don't ask me how I know... :banghead:
1. Ported head
2. Intercooler
3. fuel injection
4. O-rings
5. 4bbls
6. Headers
7. Race gas
Well, that is a lot of money saved if none of that stuff is necessary for a viable 300 hp, turbo slant six powerplant, but if you don't HAVE any of those items onboard, what kind of performance could you expect out of a 3,300-pound (including driver weight) A body?
And, what could you use to get it???
How about 12.95 @ 104 in a car that weighs 3,300 pounds, with driver??
Here's my suggestion:
Any year slant six block, freshly bored to 3.445"
A water/alky injector... they are not cheap, but are more insurance... and allow more boost. (This motor should see 15, maybe 20 pounds; no more.)
Six Wiseco pistons, PN PT112A45 $423.28 on ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiseco-PT11...t-Chrysler-225-Slant-6-1-625-CH-/311238766968)
Six K-1 rods, DH7005BEH86 ebay=http://www.ebay.com/itm/K1-007BF20700-H-Beam-Connecting-Rods-Chrysler-Slant-6-7-005-in-For-Forged-Crank-/271866455377?hash=item3f4c80e551&vxp=mtr $577.00, or Molnar rods for $507.00
So, that's a lot of money, but it gives you a lot of protection from detonation... always.
The head will need to be checked for straightness, but here is where I suggest you "cheap out." Pay to have the 1.75" intake and 1.5" exhaust valves installed, but do NOT spend money on a porting job. I think, given the parameters of this engine's activities (low boost, forever,) it would be a waste of money. It would run better ported, sure, but that is $1500.00 you could save by just turning up the boost a little, I think.
NO O RINGS! Victor Rienz has a new MLS gasket that should fill the bill on cylinder sealing on this low boost engine.
Holley 2350, 500cfm carb and a Super Six intake (cheap!) with the Hangar 18 mods to the carb... a DIY job, with explicit instructions on the internet.
Stock ignition system, except for a different curve, giving a maximum of 18 degrees of boost whenever there is ANY boost present! OK to use a vacuum cannister for more advance, cruising...
Some reasonably-priced, used, Buick GN turbo, maybe from a junk yard. You're on your own here, because what I DON'T know about turbochargers, would fill several large volumes... sorry. The one on my car was given to me from a guy who said it was identical to the one on his car, a 1987 Buick T-Type (GN) that runs in the tens... It's a 66mm, Turbonetics, non ball-bearing unit. That's all I can tell you; so, Im an idiot... we knew that.
Stock lubrication system.
Stock cam, pushrods but, with 340 springs
Pishta J-pipe exhaust, with a dial-your-own 3" exhaust and tail pipe. Muffler, optional...
Stock 904 and converter.
Stock oil pan.
Stock everything else.
What do you think? Could this be done for around $2,000.00? $2,500.00??? $3,500,00?
A 300 hp motor that will have impeccable road manners (driveability,) last a long time, get decent gas mileage, and still have enough grunt to put the car into the high twelves at well over 100 mph, if you want to have some fun with it!
This is my personal pipe dream, but I honestly think it's do-able.
What do you guys think?:twisted:
PS Don't even THINK about trying this project without a wideband A/F meter.. it would be like standing a live earthworm on end... you'd nevwer get it done.... never.
One caveat; leaded gasoline is death to these meters... $91.00-worth..... don't ask me how I know... :banghead: