A set of ported of 302 heads is fine for the power your looking for, but there’s way better heads to swap to, there a bunch of people that push these heads for whatever reason. But you got them and wouldn’t sweat it, you’ll make decent power.
302 heads-Is it worth putting them on a stock 318
- Thread starter lee g
- Start date
-
Skip fooling with the 318 and do the 5.9 swap. Will be a night and day difference.
Here we go. I would bypass the 5.9 Magnum swap and go right for the Hellcat or Demon Gen 3 Hemi swap. Geez!
Right, lets just skip all the non-sub 10second garbage, & go right to the Flux Capacitor....stop Fooking around already!!
Right to the Future!!!, oh, We did....& here we are again....
Yep, here we are.
Depends on what year your Stock 318 is?
'68 & '69 are the stock 230 hp 9.2:1 compression engines.
Same with the '89 - '91 318 roller engines 9.2:1 cr and these come from the factory with the 302 closed chamber heads.
Both of these engine years perform well and run very nice with the stock cams and the Edelbrock 1406 4 barrel upgrade. Even the '68 & '69 318s running the stock open chamber heads perform nicely. Gives them the fuel that they need for that "Extra" kick.
All stock ^^^ '69 318 with added 1406 Edelbrock 4 bbl.
Would I do it again?
In a heartbeat.
The real trick is to ditch the stock 2 barrel economy carb, and upgrade to the 4 barrel. Night and day difference.
As a side note: a fresh set of heads with the new valve job is always a good thing. As with high mileage used engines, the valves are the first thing to start loosing compression .
☆☆☆☆☆
'68 & '69 are the stock 230 hp 9.2:1 compression engines.
Same with the '89 - '91 318 roller engines 9.2:1 cr and these come from the factory with the 302 closed chamber heads.
Both of these engine years perform well and run very nice with the stock cams and the Edelbrock 1406 4 barrel upgrade. Even the '68 & '69 318s running the stock open chamber heads perform nicely. Gives them the fuel that they need for that "Extra" kick.
All stock ^^^ '69 318 with added 1406 Edelbrock 4 bbl.
Would I do it again?
In a heartbeat.
The real trick is to ditch the stock 2 barrel economy carb, and upgrade to the 4 barrel. Night and day difference.
As a side note: a fresh set of heads with the new valve job is always a good thing. As with high mileage used engines, the valves are the first thing to start loosing compression .
☆☆☆☆☆
Cam
Then you will need a torque converter
Then you will want different gears
Then you will want to replace the 302 heads with some aluminum heads
Now you will 'need' a new intake and carb(s)
Then you will want to stroke it
Then you will need a newer cam
Then you will want a big block. I suggest the 383. ;)
Don't start down the carparts highway to hell!
PRH
Well-Known Member
I’ll throw my .02 in here…….
For mild to mild-ish 273/318 combos where the desired power output is roughly in the 1hp/ci or less range, 302 heads are basically as suitable as other 318 heads.
If you’re looking for more power than that, there are easier paths to get there than using small heads on a small engine.
For mild to mild-ish 273/318 combos where the desired power output is roughly in the 1hp/ci or less range, 302 heads are basically as suitable as other 318 heads.
If you’re looking for more power than that, there are easier paths to get there than using small heads on a small engine.
A couple of posts ago it was talked about "68-9" and "89-91" 318s and their CR. Actually they advertised 9:1 from 85-91.
But I have to ask, how "true to form" are those numbers? I've cc'd a couple of different engines plus reading of others doing the same on a rebuild, and stock, unmodified they usually come out short of what's advertised in the manuals.
Between the pistons not being as close to TDC as they could be (or are advertised as being), and combustion chamber volumes actually being bigger than advertised, unless you blueprint it and machine parts as needed, you probably aren't getting what you think you are.
But I have to ask, how "true to form" are those numbers? I've cc'd a couple of different engines plus reading of others doing the same on a rebuild, and stock, unmodified they usually come out short of what's advertised in the manuals.
Between the pistons not being as close to TDC as they could be (or are advertised as being), and combustion chamber volumes actually being bigger than advertised, unless you blueprint it and machine parts as needed, you probably aren't getting what you think you are.
-
