318 2 brl to 340 4 brl conversion Whats needed?

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Suregrip391

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Hey guys, I am almost at the point where I will be dropping in a 1970 340 engine in my 69 Barracuda that was originally equipped with a 318 2 brl carb. My new setup will include a stock 1970 cast iron manifold and I plan to run a Holley 4 brl carb. Can anyone tell me what kind (exactly) of brackets or kickdown parts I may need so that I have all the parts before I tackle the job? I am sure alot of people here have been down this road and can lend some advice? Any other hurdles I may need to jump? Thanks!
 
It's a start on the basics.

Kickdown linkages come in two basic styles: The single-rod linkage and the three-rod linkage. Single-rod linkages tend to be model specific. The three-rod linkages are more generic. The easiest way to get the proper kickdown linkage is to find one in a junkyard. Unfortunately, many 1970's era Chrysler vehicles (i.e. Dodge trucks) are getting hard to find in junkyards (junkyards are full of Chevrolets for some reason) especially if you live in a rural area. You are also out of luck if your car did not come with a four-barrel option. So I put together a (not comprehensive) listing of the parts needed for the three link style kickdown linkage. (Parts are from 1983 Car manual unless otherwise noted.)

top linkages
4287 969 Throttle spring bracket
4287 969 Throttle Cable Bracket with top bellcrank
4041 548 Upper rod (carburetor. to top bellcrank)
4027 590 Spring (upper rod to carburetor)
4041 420 Middle rod from top bellcrank to bottom bellcrank (A727 transmission)

4041 509 Middle rod. (A904 Transmission)
3870 666 Linkage assist spring (middle rod to top bellcrank)
3751 531 Stud for bottom bell crank
3751 535 Bottom bellcrank (A727 transmission)
3751 529 Bottom bellcrank, (A904 transmission)
bottom linkages
3769 198 Spring, bottom rod
4027 374 Swivel, bottom rod (connects to trans. throttle lever)
4173 225 Bottom rod for 318 with A727 trans. (will for other applications with a little blacksmithing
4171 978 Bottom rod for 318 with A904 trans.
3820 193 Bottom rod for pickup trucks, 360 w/ 727, (Obsolete)
 
I went from /6 to 318. The problems I encountered were;

1; The single peice kickdown rod did not fit. The 3 peice kickdown parts are at Year One or equal resto house. The problem is there expensive. Though the soulution to the problem wasn't dirt cheap, the Lockar set up does work fine. It is alot cheaper than the OE rod and bell crank set up.

2; Your tranny, the 904 most likely is shorter than a 727. If you use the 727, you'll need to shorten the driveshat or get a new one. Places like; In example; Empire driveshaft or equal can do you a unit no problem. Just tell'em replacement shaft with what size U joint you have.

3; Your 318 motor mounts are slightly different on one side. You can use them over again by just adding washers to the extra space on the drivers side mount.

4; The Holley carb will need a small adapter bracket that sells for under $15. It moves the hook up point of the throttle cable over and back a tad. Also, the cable mounting bracket itself may not be high enough. I have noticed small differences between 2 and 4 bbl. brackets. You can get a custom made bracket @ Mancini racing, Magnum hp .com or other places.

OE parts are hard to find and can be expensive. You'll have to decide if you want the OE look or the aftermarket parts that have a bit of flash to them.

Below is a link to my Duster thread that may help you further. Throttle cable pictures at the bottom of page #4.
Any questions? Post them up and we'll be back.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508&page=1&pp=20
 
:thumbup:Stepping-up from a 318,love it..as far as the likage check out e-bay i just sold the factory setup from my '70 duster on there i;m sure they can't be too hard to find..good luck with the swap.. :thumbup:
 
very good topic i am doing the same also :thumbup: i forgot about the passengers side motor mount is different, and i also have the one piece kick down linkage, but for some reason it was disconnected, perhaps cause it has a b&m shifter in it or something.

I know its bad to run w/o it hooked up but just a though my friend has a truck(chebby) and runs w/o one he just has to downshift manual and upshift it manual, and my auto teacher says its not a big deal to run w/o one now he is a ferd guy, yeah i know i got no chrysler people around here.... :cussing: so are they they right, my teacher says you can drive w/o one....concerns anyone? if i just drive around and maunal shift will i be fine

where can i get a motor mount, i dont really like the washer idea, can you see em, i dont want anything looking rigged, i want it to look all nice and proper
 
66, GMs are not Mopars (Thank GOD for that)... You MUST run a kickdown on a mopar. at all times. Unless you have a manual valve body (means no automatic features). It only take about 50 miles of mixed driving to completely destroy and otherwise good tranny with none. And, manually shifting a torqueflight is not good for it either. Get the right governor assembly, and the right kickdown, and it will be everything you want.
 
moper said:
66, GMs are not Mopars (Thank GOD for that)... You MUST run a kickdown on a mopar. at all times. Unless you have a manual valve body (means no automatic features). It only take about 50 miles of mixed driving to completely destroy and otherwise good tranny with none. And, manually shifting a torqueflight is not good for it either. Get the right governor assembly, and the right kickdown, and it will be everything you want.

How about running a Lokar kickdown setup?? Just as good as the original stuff??
 
The Lokar set up just needs to be bolted on and adjusted. The adjustment is a quick and simple process that is done under the hood at the carbs side. Not underneath the car.
 
moper said:
66, GMs are not Mopars (Thank GOD for that)... You MUST run a kickdown on a mopar. at all times. Unless you have a manual valve body (means no automatic features). It only take about 50 miles of mixed driving to completely destroy and otherwise good tranny with none. And, manually shifting a torqueflight is not good for it either. Get the right governor assembly, and the right kickdown, and it will be everything you want.
thanks for that and finaly clearing it up i figured o they are just chebby and ferd guys :thumbup: well im gonna hook that up soon at least before i drive it, thanks really helped me out
 
You might want to check Bouchillon performance also. They sell a kit simular to Lokar. I used it when I did my a swap on a 318 and liked it. I use their throttle bracket on my 360. This thing is great!
 
340 Dart said:
You might want to check Bouchillon performance also. They sell a kit simular to Lokar. I used it when I did my a swap on a 318 and liked it. I use their throttle bracket on my 360. This thing is great!

Wow, thanks for the link. Looks like the Bouchillon kit costs three times as much as the LoKar.........
 
Holy moly! It was $127 plus $30 for the throttle holder. If the lokar kit is only $50 then go for it.

I did this 2 years ago. Back then the Lokar was the expensive one.
 
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