318/360 Crank/347 running on Dyno

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RAMM

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At long last I was able to set aside some time to test the 347 that has been together for almost 10 months now. Here's a link to bring you up to speed on what I started a long time ago...http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=211501

So instead of the roller cam I went with a Lunati Voodoo 60401 it is a flat tappet hydraulic that is a really nice and mild grind. The engine fired up within the first 2 revolutions and breakin went without a hitch. The engine idles at about 15" of vaccuum and is quite responsive for such a low compression combo. The '302 heads did exactly what I wanted them to do and that was function in the 300-350hp range on 87 octane and with minimal ignition lead. A few tests quickly revealed that 31 degrees total was the sweet spot. As you can see it made about 350 ft/lbs just about forever and peaked at about 310-315 hp @ 5300rpm. This was on Esso 87. Sometimes it is nice testing such a mild and forgiving engine.

Final thoughts: I really wanted this engine to be a go anywhere-toss the keys to my wife and come close to 20 mpg with a nice small block that could still turn the tires or merge effortlessly with traffic, (and not blow up the 5spd out the Dakota behind it). I think it will fulfill this role nicely.

'302 heads are NO match for even stock Magnum heads, unless somebody really really wanted them and could not get Magnums then I wouldn't use them.

The Offy 360 is killing HP and TQ, I am confident 30-40 ft/lbs and HP are a manifold swap away.

A little more cam could help but this isn't the cork. Magnum heads and an RPM intake would get this particular engine somewhere in the 360-380 hp and 400 ft/lb range pretty easily--Would I do it? Not just yet.

All in all I am pleased with an engine that doesn't leak a drop,no smoke, smooth idle, starts at the thought of starting it and rev's nice and clean with no drama. In fact I have someone who may want this one for a Dart originally powered by a dead 273--should be quite a bit different. Here's a blurry pic--sorry. J.Rob
 

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Here's a shot of the dyno sheet. J.Rob
 

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First off, I'll say nice little build, decent numbers with that mild cam. It ought to accomplish pretty much anything you need it to. How much timing? what's the carb type/size/jetting?

because a 318/360 stroker has been discussed a few times here in the recent past, I'll ask what pistons you used.
 
And just think, a LOT of the morons around this place wouldda told you not to bother with a 360 crank in a 318. Nice to see somebody prove them wrong. Good job.
 
Here's a shot of the power curve. I pulled it down to 2500 rpm and it was just as solid as it was anywhere else. I may pull it down even lower for curiosity's sake. J.Rob
 

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This one is a shot of the engine warmed up and idling just after a pull. Note the oil pressure and manifold vaccuum. I like it. J.Rob
 

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First off, I'll say nice little build, decent numbers with that mild cam. It ought to accomplish pretty much anything you need it to. How much timing? what's the carb type/size/jetting?

because a 318/360 stroker has been discussed a few times here in the recent past, I'll ask what pistons you used.

Thanks! Timing was best at 31 total although the first pull was at 28 total and it was only down 5-7 points, indicating its mild nature.

Pistons were modified Cast Silvolite's 1266 with a 5/64" ring pack-Here's the link
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=211501

J.Rob
 
And just think, a LOT of the morons around this place wouldda told you not to bother with a 360 crank in a 318. Nice to see somebody prove them wrong. Good job.

I just thought that since 318 blocks are plentiful and this one had burned up the crank and mains and I had an extra 360 crank that this was a logical experiment.

I wouldn't do it again unless paid to. J.Rob
 
Well, I must've missed pictures completely, but I looked up the part, and according to the math, they'd be out of the hole a pretty good bit. I'm going to guess that means you milled the slugs about .050"?
 
And just think, a LOT of the morons around this place wouldda told you not to bother with a 360 crank in a 318. Nice to see somebody prove them wrong. Good job.
Of course most of us know it works, but most would just advise if your going to go with the 360 crank, why not the whole 360 as they can be bought for about the same price as installing the 360 crank. It's like saying "I want the 360 crank, heads, but not the bore". Either will work, but you get a bigger bore for about the exact same money. If this cam, heads, intake and carb were bolted on a 360 short block, I bet the numbers would be better. I personally love the 318, but if I wanted the 360 crank I would just get a 360..... for the same money!
 
Well, I must've missed pictures completely, but I looked up the part, and according to the math, they'd be out of the hole a pretty good bit. I'm going to guess that means you milled the slugs about .050"?

.060" was removed actually. J.Rob
 
But some people just like doin stuff the way they want.
 
But some people just like doin stuff the way they want.
Absolutely! And that's the beauty of this sport! The rule of "your car, your money" dominates, and rightfully so! Just when a thread (not this one) is opened to the "best" way to achieve something on a budget, tons of opinions are going to be given, and I just don't think those that advise the "360 block" instead of the "360 crank in a 318" are morons, LOL ! :eek:ccasion:
 
They are when they are advising someone that already HAS the parts they intend to use. I say leave them alone and let them do it. Look what RAMM did. It turned out good.
 
RAMM - cool to see it all put together and running. I agree 100% on the head comments.

RRR - Having the parts means dick unless you're like RAMM and also own a machine shop to modify the parts to work together. Hence the "would only do it again if [he] got paid" comment.
 
RAMM - cool to see it all put together and running. I agree 100% on the head comments.

RRR - Having the parts means dick unless you're like RAMM and also own a machine shop to modify the parts to work together. Hence the "would only do it again if [he] got paid" comment.
Dead on, 100%
 
The last 2 posts are accurate. However if someone procured the parts themselves and brought them to me I could do this for a nominal fee. wink wink. J.Rob
 
RAMM - cool to see it all put together and running. I agree 100% on the head comments.

RRR - Having the parts means dick unless you're like RAMM and also own a machine shop to modify the parts to work together. Hence the "would only do it again if [he] got paid" comment.

He just said he milled .060 off the pistons. You don't need to OWN a machine shop. Do you just make stupid comments to start arguments or what?
 
Just to prove that this combo works depending on what you have and what you want. We all don't build max output engines. Or for that matter, why would we want to. This is a very respectable build. There is lots of room for more horsepower but it is very streetable and lots of fun over a stock 273 or 318. tmm
 
I like the fact that you can stroke your stock 273, 318 block.
And have alot of torque.
It is what makes a street car.
I might just buld one for my 4x4 truck.
 
And just think, a LOT of the morons around this place wouldda told you not to bother with a 360 crank in a 318. Nice to see somebody prove them wrong. Good job.
What do you mean? Lots of ways to skin a cat there rusty..... people would probally be more likely to say, wouldn't it be cheaper to get the same or more power out of a non stroked 360? all things equal... This is a cool build, with a nice flat torque curve, but it doesn't change the laws of pysics, nor does it make anyone a moron for choosing NOT to build stroked 318.
 
I like the fact that you can stroke your stock 273, 318 block.
And have alot of torque.
It is what makes a street car.
I might just buld one for my 4x4 truck.
You can stroke most any engine, and have a lot of torque. Its not limited to a 273 or 318. These builds make sense if you want to keep your teen block for whatever reason, or you cant find a 340/360 block as a good core.
 
Of course most of us know it works, but most would just advise if your going to go with the 360 crank, why not the whole 360 as they can be bought for about the same price as installing the 360 crank. It's like saying "I want the 360 crank, heads, but not the bore". Either will work, but you get a bigger bore for about the exact same money. If this cam, heads, intake and carb were bolted on a 360 short block, I bet the numbers would be better. I personally love the 318, but if I wanted the 360 crank I would just get a 360..... for the same money!
Well put!
 
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