318/360 swap questions

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Lelo Dart

Lelo Dart

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OK, I have a few questions maybe someone can help me out with. I am swapping a 318 LA built a couple years ago ,about 300 hp, with a XE268 comp cam and KB pistons for a rebuilt 360 magnum with a small voodoo torque cam. I want to install the motor with my new headers all at once. Would it be a good idea to use my 570 carb off the teener for the first start up since I know its a good tuned in carb so I don't burn the coating on the headers or are these two builds so different that the carb wouldn't be right for the magnum anyways?
 
Pretty small for a 5.9. If you have a roller you wont need to break in cam. What are you planning on running eventually? One thing you dont want to do is run your new engine lean as you will damage it.
 
Its gonna be a new Holley 670, new fresh out of the box. I'm expecting similar horsepower #s but big block torque. That's kind of what I was getting at, if the 570 would be too small on the 360. Won't I need to run it at a certain rpm for a while to set the rings? I'm gonna start out with break-in oil.
 
Going from a 318 with headers and intake with a 600 Eddie to a mild 5.9 Mag all I had to change was the idle mixture and it ran well.
Even the A/F reading from a gauge were almost identical.
That was my experience anyway.
 
Run the widdle cawbbie.
It will be fine for break-in, for cruising, and if you know how to tune it., you can make it go till the rods come out the side.
Obviously a bigger carb will make more ultimate power and more average power, and if you have a M/T with a DP, will smoke the tires from standstill to 80 mph. The smaller carbie is a little nicer to drive on the primaries, around town.
 
Teen is out. 5.9 Magnum is in!

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OK, about ready to start er up. I have installed the distributor (at TDC) with the rotor pointed toward the first bolt on on the intake by the #1 cylinder. How do I get my timing in the ballpark before starting the motor?
 
Lelo Dart said:
OK, about ready to start er up. I have installed the distributor (at TDC) with the rotor pointed toward the first bolt on on the intake by the #1 cylinder. How do I get my timing in the ballpark before starting the motor?
Click to expand...

Ahem.
Are you on the compression stroke? Please say yes. The #1 has to be TDC-Compression stroke. Then the rest as you say.
Then make a pencil mark on the ballancer at 10* AFTER TDC
Then crank the balancer backwards to put that mark on 10* ADVANCED
With this setting you will now be able to set the dizzy to fire off at 20* advanced
Next, push the Vcan as far back as you can, to nearly hit the firewall. Pop the rotor off. Now pull the v-can forward until the very first reluctor vane comes into alignment with the magnetic trigger sandwich.Snug the dizzy down, just tight enough that it becomes difficult but not impossible to move, so that you can quickly adjust the timing after light off.Then put the rotor back on.
Next,put a mark on the dizzy,on the side of the body, directly below the rotor tip.
Put the cap back on. There should now be a tower directly over your mark, and that will be the tower that you connect to the number one sparkplug wire. Then wire the rest according to the firing order.Connect the Vcan to the sparkport.
The timing is now set to 20* advanced, or very close to it.
I assume this engine has a flat-tappet cam in it, and you will be wanting to break the cam in.
So,as soon as the engine runs,you will be cracking the throttle to get a minimum of 2000 rpm, and simultaneously checking for a fuel leak. If you have a fuel leak, STOP! the engine and fix it. That is your very first priority.Then restart the engine, and set the idle speed to get 2200 to 2500 rpm.Then pull on the Vcan to increase the idle speed some more.If the engine slows down, push the Vcan back some. You will then reset the speed to 2500, for the duration of the break-in.
Then check for leaks of any kind.
Then continue the break-in period, watching for overheat and leakage of any kind.
After about 20 minutes, you can bring the idle down, and set the timing properly.
I keep three things handy;
- - - - - - 1)fire extinguisher rated for gasoline
- - - - - - 2)running water to spray on the rad in the event of overheat,
- - - - - - 3)a time clock
I always do this outside, away from my buildings. There will be smoke. There will be stink. There will be noise. Twenty minutes is a long time; with noise, stink, and smoke.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
Ahem.
Are you on the compression stroke? Please say yes. The #1 has to be TDC-Compression stroke. Then the rest as you say.
Then make a pencil mark on the ballancer at 10* AFTER TDC
Then crank the balancer backwards to put that mark on 10* ADVANCED
With this setting you will now be able to set the dizzy to fire off at 20* advanced
Next, push the Vcan as far back as you can, to nearly hit the firewall. Pop the rotor off. Now pull the v-can forward until the very first reluctor vane comes into alignment with the magnetic trigger sandwich.Snug the dizzy down, just tight enough that it becomes difficult but not impossible to move, so that you can quickly adjust the timing after light off.Then put the rotor back on.
Next,put a mark on the dizzy,on the side of the body, directly below the rotor tip.
Put the cap back on. There should now be a tower directly over your mark, and that will be the tower that you connect to the number one sparkplug wire. Then wire the rest according to the firing order.Connect the Vcan to the sparkport.
The timing is now set to 20* advanced, or very close to it.
Click to expand...
Yes it's on the compression stroke. This is my distributor.
PART_1466556610517_IMG_20160621_182158.jpg
 
Start with the number one plug wire in the cap where the rotor is pointing and go by the firing order clockwise.
It would be nice if you could tell where the cam in the distributor is so you can see if it's lined up with the Ignitor trigger point, but hey, ya gotta start somewhere.
I had the plugs out to crank up some oil pressure for the fireup and just checked it real quick with the timing light while it was cranking to get pressure.
10 degrees before was ok to fire up on but don't be surprised if it actually likes 15-20.
 
If you are running a roller cam and using stock magnum type rings, then there should be no need to break in like and old style LA engine.
 
Punisher66j said:
What alternator bracket did you use?
Click to expand...
Man... I see what you mean now. How do you deal with this?
PART_1466880178963_IMG_20160625_134243.jpg

Where the back of the mounts is 3/4" to 1" forward of the original spot.
PART_1466880196931_IMG_20160625_134235.jpg

Also the alternator will not fit with those raised areas on the heads. Thought all this was supposed to bolt right up!
PART_1466880207662_IMG_20160625_133908.jpg

The teen is flat all the way across the front of the head.
 
After researching a little it looks like I could get the no AC brackets and shim the alternator out away from the head to clear it. But I'm not sure if it will move the alt further down and make my clearance problem even worse. Does anyone have any personal experience with this?
 
I fabbed the alternator bracket but not sure if it is a good idea but I will find out when I fire it up. Magnum swap should know.
 
Those brackets were the answer. Didn't have to shim anything either.
PART_1467503157418_IMG_20160702_184439.jpg

Not touching. Can't get much closer than that but looks like it will work great.
PART_1467503177451_IMG_20160702_184458.jpg
 
What's going to drive the water pump?
 
Lelo Dart said:
It runs with the power steering. It is originally a AC car and there is a place for 3 belts off of the balancer pulley.
Click to expand...

Gotchya. Then I reckon you're all set!
 
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