318/8 Speed Swap

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Hey Travis, I don't have any further information. I have been doing some research on trying to get the engine mounted lower though. Since my car is apart, I don't have any direct info to try but I've been asking around. So far I know this, if using the Gen3 hemi with this trans, Holley and now Hemi Denny have options to get this in a E/B body without cutting. Holley uses mounts to move the engine forward and down about 1" in each direction which gets you the necessary clearance. The Hemi Denny subframe gets you enough clearance as well, but I am not sure yet as to how exactly. Someone on Facebook used his setup and got it in the car without cutting.

As far as the LA motor, it has been mentioned that to get the engine lower, it might be possible to slot the motor mounts that attach to the engine or even remove the rubber from the mounts and use a solid mount (which ruins the "shaker" ability and gets vibration in the car) or even try to find rubber mounts that have less height. I think maybe a combination of the two might work well. I don't know how possible it would be to actually make a rubber mount that has less height? Also mentioned was to put spacers between the k frame and frame, but I don't want to interfere with the geometry of the suspension, steering, etc....

I still need to find out what component is the closest to the engine when lowering it. Is it the steering link under the pan, the actual K under the pan, the steering box, steering shaft, or??? This is my progress so far. If you haven't guessed, I am trying to put in an ebody but for an a body, I think cutting the car is a must. What are you looking to put one in?
 
roadrunninMark said:
Hey Travis, I don't have any further information. I have been doing some research on trying to get the engine mounted lower though. Since my car is apart, I don't have any direct info to try but I've been asking around. So far I know this, if using the Gen3 hemi with this trans, Holley and now Hemi Denny have options to get this in a E/B body without cutting. Holley uses mounts to move the engine forward and down about 1" in each direction which gets you the necessary clearance. The Hemi Denny subframe gets you enough clearance as well, but I am not sure yet as to how exactly. Someone on Facebook used his setup and got it in the car without cutting.

As far as the LA motor, it has been mentioned that to get the engine lower, it might be possible to slot the motor mounts that attach to the engine or even remove the rubber from the mounts and use a solid mount (which ruins the "shaker" ability and gets vibration in the car) or even try to find rubber mounts that have less height. I think maybe a combination of the two might work well. I don't know how possible it would be to actually make a rubber mount that has less height? Also mentioned was to put spacers between the k frame and frame, but I don't want to interfere with the geometry of the suspension, steering, etc....

I still need to find out what component is the closest to the engine when lowering it. Is it the steering link under the pan, the actual K under the pan, the steering box, steering shaft, or??? This is my progress so far. If you haven't guessed, I am trying to put in an ebody but for an a body, I think cutting the car is a must. What are you looking to put one in?
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Thanks!
I have a 74 scamp. The engine and trans is a 5.7 from a 2015 rt Charger. I haven’t started mocking up the engine yet so trying to figure out the best plan!
I plan on using the complete tubular set up from qa1 up front
 
Talk to Hemi Denny's company. They may be working on a way to get that in an a body without too much cutting but since those bodies are smaller with less room, I don't think you have much of an option. I know US Car Tool has a lot of options for support structures, so check them out too.
 
How about just a paddle shifter and a 'full manual valve body' type profile? Would save on the $1000 controller if you could figure out the sequence for the shifting. Probably still take a computer to change gears We got 6sp in our minivan and its in 4th before 40 mph. Still dont like it. 3.8 VVT Motor never gets above 2400 RPM
 
Appreciate the videos as well but your installation is not behind an LA small block, which this thread is about.
 
In this video you can see a little bit of the drive shaft fabrication. I disagree with the above, this thread does talk about an 8 speed which maybe installed some day. OP does talk about it’s advantages.
 
skidmark said:
I disagree with the above, this thread does talk about an 8 speed which maybe installed some day. OP does talk about it’s advantages.
Click to expand...

I think source of the comment about this not being relevant is the fact that the guy in the video referenced that the aftermarket TCM he bought interfaces with the Mopar PCM. This makes it sound like the only way the TCM is useful is if you swap a Gen3 Hemi in at the same time.

But I am betting the manufacturer built the TCM to work with a non-EFI motor as well, if certain sensors like a TPS are added. In which case I would say it is a useful video, if not as informative as one where a guy swapped the 8 speed behind a carbureted LA.

But I haven’t check into whether the TCM needs a PCM or not. Just guessing.
 
I've been thinking more on this subject and am seeing that to lower the engine (as not to have to cut out the car, helping with clearance for the trans) the drag link is the closest thing in the way. I've thought about doing the torque tube idea through the oil pan. I've just thought about a modified drag link (make a new one out of aluminum?) that kicks down lower? This way no mods to the oil pan. How hard would it be to make a new drag link?
 
The drag links are cast iron, and they really should be iron or steel given the type of load they can take and the section area you need.

Honestly you'd be a lot better with something like the ToddRon crossmember and cutting the floor. If you lower it, everything will be jacked up, bump steer, tie rod angles, pitman and idler arms, driveshaft angle, ground clearance, exhaust, etc. An aftermarket K-frame with front steer might be the only thing that could help.

But honestly if you have 220V welder and some skills with it, you just cut the floor and make a new center crossmember IMO. You'll be done about 20x faster and everything will work right. Been 2 years on mine and its perfect, also you basically forget about the floor being cut.
 
I am not interested in cutting the floor. I see what you are saying about the drag link so probably the safest bet is to modify the oil pan.
 
Thanks Kursplat but I would like to keep all the geometry set. I am trying to find the easiest/ cost effective solution (without large modifications/changes) to make it work; thinking aloud. A modified oil pan can be replaced with a stock one at anytime; so no harm done as with anything "bolt on".
 
Been a year, anyone made any progress?

Found this today - My 8HP70 swap.

Not a 318, but it is a Mopar BB and carbureted. And references a controller I hadn't heard of.
 
DionR said:
Been a year, anyone made any progress?

Found this today - My 8HP70 swap.

Not a 318, but it is a Mopar BB and carbureted. And references a controller I hadn't heard of.
Click to expand...

In a manner of speaking. There's a facebook group focused around this swap, there's been some progress there. Mostly focused around a flexplate with the magnum tone ring for use behind a 5.2/5.9.

LA-B/RB Engines to 8hp70-90-NAG1

There's also a guy on the ramcharger forums who's doing one, using an ATI mopar to GM flexplate. It requires a crank adapter and the adapter will require some machine work.

'86 Ramcharger

I designed a flexplate that I THINK will work. I used a SB bellhousing blueprint and measurements I took from my SB and my brothers Gen3 plus info from the Ramcharger guy. My 3d printer isn't quite big enough, so I can't make a test part.

Here's a link to the model, they're stored in .STEP files, so compatible with just about any CAD software out there. It's designed to be used with an ATP ring gear, P/N ZA-507.

You can make a cheap prototype using sendcutsend, if there are any changes needed, please post back so I can update the model.

Free for personal use, but not for commercial or sales to others.

LA 8 Speed Flexplate - Google Drive

256298456_10160022399551474_6059932623460123004_n.jpg

LA Block Bellhousing with hemi flexplate.PNG
 
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TurboGLH said:
In a manner of speaking. There's a facebook group focused around this swap, there's been some progress there. Mostly focused around a flexplate with the magnum tone ring for use behind a 5.2/5.9.

LA-B/RB Engines to 8hp70-90-NAG1

There's also a guy on the ramcharger forums who's doing one, using an ATI mopar to GM flexplate. It requires a crank adapter and the adapter will require some machine work.

'86 Ramcharger

I designed a flexplate that I THINK will work. I used a SB bellhousing blueprint and measurements I took from my SB and my brothers Gen3 plus info from the Ramcharger guy. My 3d printer isn't quite big enough, so I can't make a test part.

Here's a link to the model, they're stored in .STEP files, so compatible with just about any CAD software out there. It's designed to be used with an ATP ring gear, P/N ZA-507.

You can make a cheap prototype using sendcutsend, if there are any changes needed, please post back so I can update the model.

Free for personal use, but not to for commercial or sales to others.

LA 8 Speed Flexplate - Google Drive

View attachment 1715847996
View attachment 1715847997
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Interesting. Hadn't thought about mounting the 8HP70 behind a Magnum with the stock EFI.

Thanks!
 
We are gearing up to get to it this year. My friend and I both have the transmissions and related parts. He is pulling the engine and 727 real soon. His will probably be in before mine as I am still on the road runner. If only I had more garage space....
 
roadrunninMark said:
We are gearing up to get to it this year. My friend and I both have the transmissions and related parts. He is pulling the engine and 727 real soon. His will probably be in before mine as I am still on the road runner. If only I had more garage space....
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Interested in what you're planning to use for a flexplate. Seems to be the biggest unknown, besides a trans mount.
 
TurboGLH said:
Interested in what you're planning to use for a flexplate. Seems to be the biggest unknown, besides a trans mount.
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We are using the QuickTime RM-947 plate. It needs to have the TC holes drilled into it. I was thinking of using the stock 8 speed plate, but it would need the hemi crank bolt pattern holes welded closed then drill the 6 bolt crank holes. Last step would be balance checked.. A lot of work for the stock 8 speed plate; might be same price to just use the 947. Supposedly, no spacer is needed between crank and plate. Also need the 8 speed stock crank bushing to center the 8 speed convertor.. Mopar Replacement 4736283AA Mopar Replacement Crankshaft Pilot Sleeves | Summit Racing
As far as mount, Holley sells the mounts under their hooker blackjack brand, depending on vehicle of course. Here is link... 1971 Dodge Challenger 1970-1974 E-body Gen III Hemi Swap System Parts - Holley
 
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Chevelleguy said:
View attachment 1715595778

I used a teensy controller and arduino. and some mosfets. I used oshpark to print the board. I'm no hardware engineer but it works. basically I hard wired the 5 clutch solenoids, the park solenoids, the lockup solenoid, and the pressure solenoid each to a mosfet. I used the pwm feature from the teensy to vary the current to each solenoid. crude but it allows me to put full pressure to the clutch packs which i think is partly why i get away with putting so much power through it.
I'm a software guy so i thought it would be fun but at this stage i just manually shift it with an up shift and down shift switch. I'm playing with full auto but have no desire to compete with commercial stuff.
one of the awesome features of this tranny is that any shift is simply release one clutch, engage another one. I actually engage the shift clutch before i release the other clutch, it makes for a FIRM shift :) I lock up all of the clutches for a transbrake then release the 3 that give me the gear i want.
also, and it's pretty obvious in that video above, I use the lock up converter alot. the dyno pull was in 6th gear with locked converter.
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I would love to talk to you about the transmission controller. I am in the work to make my own and it is almost done. I will run without the converter and use the big B clutch as a release clutch. I got theoretical 50ms gearshifts, clutch to clutch. It will go in a drift car so no need for comfort :D

But I got some questions I would like to ask you:

1: Which voltage are you running at the solenoids? 5V or 12V? I thought they where 12V but just read in a forum that they are 5V. Made me thinking :rolleyes:

2: Have you connected any of the built in sensors? I got the thermistor to work, but struggle with both of the 2 wire hall sensors for input and output shaft speed and the park position sensor. Any details of how to wire them up to the Arduino?
 
DionR said:
Been a year, anyone made any progress?

Found this today - My 8HP70 swap.

Not a 318, but it is a Mopar BB and carbureted. And references a controller I hadn't heard of.
Click to expand...


Thanks for posting this, I have been trying to figure out if there is a way to mount one to a BB (440). I have to pull my 727 anyway to fix all the leaks, it would be awesome to put an 8HP in its place.
 
Cope makes an adapter to go from a big block to a small block bell housing, I wonder if this would work to adapt the 8HP to it. And then some sort of spacer to fill the gap to the converter.
 
StevenL said:
I would love to talk to you about the transmission controller. I am in the work to make my own and it is almost done. I will run without the converter and use the big B clutch as a release clutch. I got theoretical 50ms gearshifts, clutch to clutch. It will go in a drift car so no need for comfort :D

But I got some questions I would like to ask you:

1: Which voltage are you running at the solenoids? 5V or 12V? I thought they where 12V but just read in a forum that they are 5V. Made me thinking :rolleyes:

2: Have you connected any of the built in sensors? I got the thermistor to work, but struggle with both of the 2 wire hall sensors for input and output shaft speed and the park position sensor. Any details of how to wire them up to the Arduino?
Click to expand...

Hi Steven, I am going to use the controller from Sound German Automotive. I've spoken with the owner, Russell, who also developed the controllers. His controller only needs a TPS, brake switch signal, RPM reference - tach signal. The controller otherwise plugs into the transmission, using the built in factory stuff. I am not that aware of the voltages and such, but I am sure Russell will answer your questions. Any questions I've had so far, he's answered them. Here is his website... Sound German Automotive
 
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