BigBlockMopar28
Well-Known Member
Where's the best places to lift a 318 with a cherry picker? Do the heads need to be on in order to lift it? Also, how tight should the bolts be? Thanks in advance
318 best lifting points?
- Thread starter BigBlockMopar28
- Start date
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xLURKxDOGx
"An angel fat, at satan's feast"
With a carb plate. Or, alternator bolt hole on the front passenger and rear drivers.
Jake
Jake
BigBlockMopar28
Well-Known Member
With a carb plate, would i be able to use regular carb bolts with washers or would i need a stronger bolt? (Aluminum 340 intake if that makes a difference)
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
carb plate 100%!
KnuckleDuster
Well-Known Member
Plate. Sooner or later someone will tell you not to use a plate. I have pulled and installed my engines AND 727's together at least 10 times with nary a squeak from the carb studs.
I shorten the chain on the picker and leave the hood on. Easy with two people, but I have done it alone as well. Hardest part is lifting and swinging the tailshaft over the radiator core support.
I shorten the chain on the picker and leave the hood on. Easy with two people, but I have done it alone as well. Hardest part is lifting and swinging the tailshaft over the radiator core support.
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I agree with the guys above. The carb plate works surprisingly well. Assuming you're not pulling the transmission and engine together as a unit, the motor will stay pretty level too.
If you are trying to pull the engine/trans out together, pull your distributor... and either way, get a couple of friends to help you guide it out.
If you are trying to pull the engine/trans out together, pull your distributor... and either way, get a couple of friends to help you guide it out.
I use an engine leveller and try to make the attachment points as far apart as possible....Usually the end intake bolts...
Dartswinger70
Well-Known Member
I have used a Carb plate with success. As I understand it, as long as the bolts are tight, there should be no problems with either aluminum or cast intakes. I also have a engine sling( chain) that could be hooked to the bolt holes in the heads(alternator/PS pump bracket holes).
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
i've never gotten around to buying a carb plate so i use a chain from the front of one head to the rear of the other head... easy peasy..
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
doubt i paid that much for it but it looks a lot like the chain i've had for many years.. Amazon.com: Motor Engine Lift Chain Hoist Lifting Chain: Automotive
i either use a carb plate, or if I cant use that for whatever reason(usually cause I dont trust aluminum intake thread), I use the front most passenger side intake manifold bolt and the rear most drivers side intake manifold bolt
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
I had used the leveler every time I pulled an engine until last year - they absolutely work like a charm - it's all about where you attach the ends of it. I always removed the intake, the distributor, the alternator and the valve covers and used the threaded holes at each end of the heads. The only "issue" it ever caused was on the back of the right head - it's so close to the firewall that if you're not careful the end of the chain (mine has L brackets on it) will hit and scratch/dent the firewall.
I like being able to tilt the whole thing as I pull it out...
I can get the engine and trans out within 10 minutes (If I don't forget to disconnect anything...)
I can get the engine and trans out within 10 minutes (If I don't forget to disconnect anything...)
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
you don't say..
That is what I do myself. I like the tilter. Engine alone or with trans connected.It makes it an easy 1 man job.
IF the heads are off, attach the chain so it can swivel. Bolt all the way down. One chain up front and one to the back or if a single chain, cross one side to the other.
If the heads are on, attach to ether the intake bolt holes in the head or the front /back of the head.
IF the heads are off, attach the chain so it can swivel. Bolt all the way down. One chain up front and one to the back or if a single chain, cross one side to the other.
If the heads are on, attach to ether the intake bolt holes in the head or the front /back of the head.
Unconventional
Well-Known Member
OMG 
another poor demented soul that has Mel Brooks moments 
another poor demented soul that has Mel Brooks moments
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
so - as you can see there are two distinct schools of thought when it comes to picking the engine out - you'll probably have to do what we have all done - decide for yourself. Heads?? on or off - but most will agree you're better off leaving them on. Bolts??? tight! Not "holy **** are you kidding me" tight, but tight - if I had to wager a guess as to where I usually get them - 30-40 foot lbs...
73Swinger18
✱ⓈⓌⒾⓃⒼⒺⓇ
I pulled my heads since I didn't have an engine stand to work with once it was removed. The leveler is Harbor Freight.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Mine looks a bit like that, the ends were made from the throttle spring bracket and maybe a kickdown bracket, they used to be "I think" the factory lift fixtures
As long as you have a good 3-5 threads engaged on intake or head bolts, it will hold for a pul...
I have never tightened the bolts to the chain. I run them right down until the touch and pull the engine. Never ever a problem.
ScampMike
Despicable Damn Yankee
When I used the carb plate - I got those 4 bolts good a dang-gum tight. When using the chain or leveler method - nothing will make your heart miss a beat like having your engine suddenly "adjust" itself while it's hanging over the front end of your car.
Just make sure it is hooked up solid, I have changed them every way, with just a chain, carb plate, engine leveler.
What makes it easy is remove the water pump and crank pulleys, for more clearance.
What makes it easy is remove the water pump and crank pulleys, for more clearance.
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