318 build up

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Is the 318 forged crank balanced itself or with damper and flexplate/flywheel?
 
The crank is balanced for the stock pistons, stock-type useage.
The ballancer is neutral ballanced,as must be the convertor.
The oem flexplate is universal to all cranks .

If replacement pistons will be of a different material or type/shape that leads to an other than stock weight, a reballance is suggested. If the engine is to be operated in an other than stock manner then a reballance could/should also be considered.
For instance, if heavy forged pistons go in, and with a 3800 stall TC , that crank was never ballanced for that appication, so ......
 
The crank is balanced for the stock pistons.
The ballancer is neutral ballanced,as must be the convertor.
The oem flexplate is universal to all cranks .

another way to say internal balanced!:burnout:MT
 
No adapter is needed to bolt the grand to the crank. You just have to make sure the back of the crank can accept the trans into it. This is called a pilot hole. A bushing goes inside of it.

When you balance a crank, you also balance the rods, pistons, rings & bearings, damper & flex plate or flywheel. Some shops I know also want the torque converter as well along with it at the same time.

All 273, 318 & 340 engines are internally balanced. (Except a '73 - 340 engine but that can be changed) all 360 engines are externally balanced. LA & Magnum engines have different external balancing weights.
 
MT
He asked"Is the 318 forged crank balanced itself or with damper and flexplate/flywheel? "
I answered the damper,flexplate,flywheel part of his question, and recapped yours.Further more, you squeezed your post between ours.Check out the timestamps.While I am typing, I cannot see that you were also blasting out an answer Not everyone could jump to the end from the beginning.
If I hurt your feelings, Im truly sorry
 
MT
He asked"Is the 318 forged crank balanced itself or with damper and flexplate/flywheel? "
I answered the damper,flexplate,flywheel part of his question, and recapped yours.Further more, you squeezed your post between ours.Check out the timestamps.While I am typing, I cannot see that you were also blasting out an answer Not everyone could jump to the end from the beginning.
If I hurt your feelings, Im truly sorry

My feeligs don't get hurt that easy! Love the info that is given here. I did kind of not hear what he asked. :burnout:MT
 
John Wayne, I forgot to mention the cam duration suggestion.

With 3.23 gears with a 235/60/15 tire I would look at no larger than a cam of 230*'s @ .050 with a manual trans for a dual purpose car. A bit less for an automatic trans. These durations work well for the street and light strip.

Knowing how much lift the heads can handle is the second part of the cam. Generally I like to use as much cam as the head can handle. If the head flows well only to .500 lift, then that is the max lift of the cam I would look at. If the head flows well to only .450, then that's it. Same idea if the head flows well to .600.

The third part of the cam is idle quality.
A cam on a 112 C-line idles nice, smooth.
On a 110 is the classic muscle car sound.
On a 108, the engine has a nice choppy sound.
I would not have a cam cut on a 106 unless it was a purpose built cam.
 
Don't forget:

treblig
 

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No adapter is needed to bolt the grand to the crank. You just have to make sure the back of the crank can accept the trans into it. This is called a pilot hole. A bushing goes inside of it.

When you balance a crank, you also balance the rods, pistons, rings & bearings, damper & flex plate or flywheel. Some shops I know also want the torque converter as well along with it at the same time.

All 273, 318 & 340 engines are internally balanced. (Except a '73 - 340 engine but that can be changed) all 360 engines are externally balanced. LA & Magnum engines have different external balancing weights.

Does all cranks fit to all transmissions then?
 
John Wayne, I forgot to mention the cam duration suggestion.

With 3.23 gears with a 235/60/15 tire I would look at no larger than a cam of 230*'s @ .050 with a manual trans for a dual purpose car. A bit less for an automatic trans. These durations work well for the street and light strip.

Knowing how much lift the heads can handle is the second part of the cam. Generally I like to use as much cam as the head can handle. If the head flows well only to .500 lift, then that is the max lift of the cam I would look at. If the head flows well to only .450, then that's it. Same idea if the head flows well to .600.

The third part of the cam is idle quality.
A cam on a 112 C-line idles nice, smooth.
On a 110 is the classic muscle car sound.
On a 108, the engine has a nice choppy sound.
I would not have a cam cut on a 106 unless it was a purpose built cam.

235/60 14 wheels, not 15 :glasses7:
 
The 273 in my Barracuda was the 2-barrel 180 hp. Now I have a Holley 600 dp, Edelbrock Dual Plane and the 714 heads. Hydralic cam (do not know any numbers) 0,30 overbore and stock exaust manifold but with a 2 1/2 " double exaust systems with flow trou mufflers.

What kind of effect may this setup have?
 
well, its all in the cam shaft. you should not use a "unknown" cam grind. JMO. cant tell output of engine without knowing what Cam is. MT
 
The 318 froged crank came from a ´68 318-3 block. These 318 block had the forged crank as stock (I have been told). But what car used this engines?
 
The crank and rods came from same engine. And if I take the TRW pistons that I mentoned, do I still need to balance it?
 
Does all cranks fit to all transmissions then?
These questions are aweful rookie like.
New to this?
I believe you need to read a book or two.
How to rebuild and how to hit rod your small block MoPar would help you A LOT.

Cranks fit into the block.
The back of the crank is ether drilled for a manual trans or not.
If not drilled for a manual trans input shaft, have it machined.
The newly drilled pilot hole will need a bushing.
The manual trans input shaft needs that bushing.
 
You always need to balance it.
The 318-3 engine is reported to be a truck engine with the forged crank being shot peen IIRC. Many many many 318's are forged cranks.
 
if you have good heads, a dual plane, 600 cfm like you said, i would make sure good ignition and enough fuel. get a custom cam ground. do the math with the ratios and weights, and get a cam thats going to perform the way you intend to drive the car. if your not going to race and rev to high rpms you may want something thats going to benefit the car at lower rpms and help out with cruising speeds.
 
The 273 in my Barracuda was the 2-barrel 180 hp. Now I have a Holley 600 dp, Edelbrock Dual Plane and the 714 heads. Hydralic cam (do not know any numbers) 0,30 overbore and stock exaust manifold but with a 2 1/2 " double exaust systems with flow trou mufflers.

What kind of effect may this setup have?

The camshaft specs need to be a know factor to even guess what the effect will be on any engine. Also, the engine it is going into will have to be understood. As in Exactly what is in it.
Your asking a question that would better be answered by a fortune teller.
 
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