318 build up

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JohnWayne said:
What is this???
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It's a small hole in the rear oil galley plug. Mopars have been known to have poor lubrication in and around the dist drive gear. Not really "poor" but slightly insufficient in some motors. Either way if you drill a very small hole (.025) in the center of the plug before you install the plug you'll get all the oil you need on the drive gear. It's a pretty cheap and easy oiling mod that will ensure a long life for your dist drive.
treblig
 

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Originally Posted by JohnWayne
Does all cranks fit to all transmissions then?

I think there may be a miscommunication here. I think John is calling the pilot bushing an adapter.
So, in that light, yes and no.
During the 60s and early 70s most if not all mopar cranks were drilled and machined for the pilot bushings (adapters). I have even taken apart (believed to be virgin)engines from automatics that had the bushings installed! But even if the crank is not machined for the bushing, NAPA, here in N.America, makes a bushing for a drilled-but-not-machined crank. Furthermore, Chrysler now stocks a ball bearing pilot that uses the convertor register to do the piloting. (very nice and recommended)
The only time you might have a problem is fitting a 67up convertor to a 66down crank, or vise-versa. The TC registers are different. But this does not concern you as you are staying with the 833.
Now heres a question for someone more knowledgeable about early LAs;
What are the chances that those TRWs, or the KB167s, weigh about the same as the stock cast 273 slugs.Then he could use the stock,steel,273 crank which has the correct pilot bushing, without re-balancing?
John I know you want that teener to be a drop-in but this might be worth considering.If you get all your ducks in a row, you should be able to fit the crank-swap, and the engine-swap, into a long weekend. Around here a re-balance is about a days pay.
 
txstang84 said:
...which also likely means his choices will be strictly budget limited. Shipping tariffs are terribly high.

Given the opportunity, best likely choice for slugs will be the KB flat tops (#167 I think) since they only require a minimal cut to the deck to achieve zero which will net you good quench and similarly healthy compression in your 318. They're also pretty light and should mate well to the lighter duty 273 rods (if that's the direction you choose).

If you can afford to put in some effort, churching up the heads will be where you can make really appreciable and felt gains. Just some modest seat, bowl, and port work will net you the spirited feel you likely want.

Just read on here...a lot. I'm pretty sure there's over 100 builds where people spruced up their 318s, and I know I've seen a couple folks on here from your part of the globe trying to do the same.
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I agree with the KB 167 pistons. They also make em forged too tho im not sure of the part number. The 167 is cast. If he goes .040" overbore it puts the bore at 3.950" that to me is close to the magical 4.000" 340/360 bore.

Being its a used block, it would likely need an overbore anyways if its high mileage. Use the 302 type castings, put in stock 360 sized valves, port em out, and open up the bowl areas to un cork the heads.

I am building a 74 318 mild hop up myself, doing something similar.

Matt
 
Mopar Tim said:
I have a nice forged crank out of a 66 318 out of a van. So not only 273s got the forged steel crank. MT

another indicator was it used a SB 727.
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From what I've been able to understand prior to '68 everything was forged. '68-up 318s and 273s could get cast. All 360s were cast, and '72-3 340s are cast. I've got a '71 built '72 cast 340 now. It seems as though sometime in the later '70s forged cranks for 318s went away.

rumblefish360 said:
All 273, 318 & 340 engines are internally balanced. (Except a '73 - 340 engine but that can be changed) all 360 engines are externally balanced. LA & Magnum engines have different external balancing weights.
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'72 340s are also external balanced. They have 1.88 intake 915s like early 360s while '73s have 587s.

JohnWayne said:
The 318 froged crank came from a ´68 318-3 block. These 318 block had the forged crank as stock (I have been told). But what car used this engines?
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In '67 the 318 was offered in Bs, Cs, and trucks. In '68 it replaced 273-4s for As. The forged cranks seems to be like the rears and transmissions- you'll see all sorts of applications it exists in and there's not a lot of continuity for the "why". 1 ton farm trucks could have cast cranks because the buyer was cheap, and an A body could have a forged crank- there wasn't much pattern once you left standard. Many later A bodies with 8-3/4s were 6 cylinder cars while it's not at all uncommon to see 7-1/4s under 318 cars as a bit of an example.

One thing you won't want is you won't want to mix a basically stock cam, with small chamber heads, with high compression pistons- the cam you run will be relevant to how well you can run pump gas as will the other factors.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Originally Posted by JohnWayne
Does all cranks fit to all transmissions then?

I think there may be a miscommunication here. I think John is calling the pilot bushing an adapter.
So, in that light, yes and no.
During the 60s and early 70s most if not all mopar cranks were drilled and machined for the pilot bushings (adapters). I have even taken apart (believed to be virgin)engines from automatics that had the bushings installed! But even if the crank is not machined for the bushing, NAPA, here in N.America, makes a bushing for a drilled-but-not-machined crank. Furthermore, Chrysler now stocks a ball bearing pilot that uses the convertor register to do the piloting. (very nice and recommended)
The only time you might have a problem is fitting a 67up convertor to a 66down crank, or vise-versa. The TC registers are different. But this does not concern you as you are staying with the 833.
Now heres a question for someone more knowledgeable about early LAs;
What are the chances that those TRWs, or the KB167s, weigh about the same as the stock cast 273 slugs.Then he could use the stock,steel,273 crank which has the correct pilot bushing, without re-balancing?
John I know you want that teener to be a drop-in but this might be worth considering.If you get all your ducks in a row, you should be able to fit the crank-swap, and the engine-swap, into a long weekend. Around here a re-balance is about a days pay.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that very informative knowledge. I will take your suggestions under consideration. Becasue it is very rare to balance engines here. Te racers take the cranks to Sweden for that operaton = a lot of money.
 
moparmat2000 said:
I agree with the KB 167 pistons. They also make em forged too tho im not sure of the part number. The 167 is cast. If he goes .040" overbore it puts the bore at 3.950" that to me is close to the magical 4.000" 340/360 bore.

Being its a used block, it would likely need an overbore anyways if its high mileage. Use the 302 type castings, put in stock 360 sized valves, port em out, and open up the bowl areas to un cork the heads.

I am building a 74 318 mild hop up myself, doing something similar.

Matt
Click to expand...

Sounds very interesting. I hope I can follow your work.
 
Infecteddog said:
From what I've been able to understand prior to '68 everything was forged. '68-up 318s and 273s could get cast. All 360s were cast, and '72-3 340s are cast. I've got a '71 built '72 cast 340 now. It seems as though sometime in the later '70s forged cranks for 318s went away.


'72 340s are also external balanced. They have 1.88 intake 915s like early 360s while '73s have 587s.


In '67 the 318 was offered in Bs, Cs, and trucks. In '68 it replaced 273-4s for As. The forged cranks seems to be like the rears and transmissions- you'll see all sorts of applications it exists in and there's not a lot of continuity for the "why". 1 ton farm trucks could have cast cranks because the buyer was cheap, and an A body could have a forged crank- there wasn't much pattern once you left standard. Many later A bodies with 8-3/4s were 6 cylinder cars while it's not at all uncommon to see 7-1/4s under 318 cars as a bit of an example.

One thing you won't want is you won't want to mix a basically stock cam, with small chamber heads, with high compression pistons- the cam you run will be relevant to how well you can run pump gas as will the other factors.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I have understand that the most important, and most complicated with building an perfromance-engine is the choise of cam.
 
Treblig said:
It's a small hole in the rear oil galley plug. Mopars have been known to have poor lubrication in and around the dist drive gear. Not really "poor" but slightly insufficient in some motors. Either way if you drill a very small hole (.025) in the center of the plug before you install the plug you'll get all the oil you need on the drive gear. It's a pretty cheap and easy oiling mod that will ensure a long life for your dist drive.
treblig
Click to expand...

Okay, it´s been noted :blob:

Thanks a lot :)
 
AJ/FormS said:
Originally Posted by JohnWayne
Does all cranks fit to all transmissions then?

I think there may be a miscommunication here. I think John is calling the pilot bushing an adapter.
So, in that light, yes and no.
During the 60s and early 70s most if not all mopar cranks were drilled and machined for the pilot bushings (adapters). I have even taken apart (believed to be virgin)engines from automatics that had the bushings installed! But even if the crank is not machined for the bushing, NAPA, here in N.America, makes a bushing for a drilled-but-not-machined crank. Furthermore, Chrysler now stocks a ball bearing pilot that uses the convertor register to do the piloting.

Do you have a part number for the napa pilot bushing, or the mopar needle bearing cup pilot bushing?
Click to expand...
 
Pulled these off the net
Chrysler part # is 53009180AB. FC69907 which is a national #..
"Threee basic types of pilot bushings exist. The standard size one "A", used to be avialable as Mopar 53298, but it went away in about 1990. Luckily, the aftermarket still carries it, some part bumbers are Federal Mogul PB286HD and NAPA-Balkamp 615-1026. O.D. is 0.941."B" is the NAPA 615-1033 undersized brushing-- O.D. is 0.914 for unreamed cranks. "C" is the current Mopar "narrow" replacement, 4338859. Avoid it."

I have no knowledge as to the correctness of these PNs.
 
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These are the 714 heads that is now on the 273 engien in the car
 

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I have read that the 714 head combustion chamber size is 57 cc. Is that correct?
 
JohnWayne said:
I have read that the 714 head combustion chamber size is 57 cc. Is that correct?
Click to expand...

I just finished testing my 714 heads. the same as 302, And they came in at average 58cc. Nice!:burnout:
 
Last weekend I purchased a block. 318 with cast number

4006730-318-4

Along came the crank, damper, oilpump, waterpump, oilpan, cam drive and valve covers.

Which crank do you recommend, the one that belongs to the block or the forged one?
 
IMO forged is better. As long as every thing is straight, should bolt right in. I have had good luck doing that. MT
 
With futher investigations of the forged crank, I belive it came out of a 273. The casting numbers is very hard to see, but the two first ones is 21. According to my books that would be a early 273 crank.

The bearings do not look very good at it. A polish would not be enough. Then, someone has been welding the balance drilled holes in it. If a real enigne-shop has done it, that would be ok, I guess. But if someone did it at home.....
 
I cant believe any one would weld on a crank at home! BUT you never know! :burnout: MT
 
JohnWayne said:
Sounds very interesting. I hope I can follow your work.
Click to expand...

Its gonna be awhile before i actually crack it apart and inspect everything, however with the .040" overbore KB flattops, and 65 cc head chambers it will put it around 324 cubic inches, and around 9.9 to 1 compression. Plenty of pop for a street engine.
 
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