318 Carter BBD 2bbl Replacement Question

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scamp80602

Life Long MOPAR Man
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I'm replacing my Carter BBD 2bbl with this unit - what's the connection on the passengers side? My original one doesn't have this. Everything else matches up. Thanks!

CarterBBD_E.JPG
 
There is also a canister connection at the front base where the original one is located on mine. I just left this one capped and it's fine. Tremendous performance improvement as a result of the carb replacement.
 
scamp80602 said:
There is also a canister connection at the front base where the original one is located on mine. I just left this one capped and it's fine. Tremendous performance improvement as a result of the carb replacement.
Click to expand...

Where did you get the carb from?
 
Uncap that bowl vent; leaving it capped will cause hot-start/hot-idle difficulties. Either connect it via hose to the "CARB" (or "BOWL") port on your charcoal canister, or leave it open to the air if your canister is absent or faulty and you won't be replacing/fixing it. The other line to the canister (under the bowl) is the purge line.
 
Thanks slantsixdan! That was the info I was looking for. I found the bowl canister port, and it was capped. I'm sure they used this same canister in previous years. The canister bowl port was never attached to the original carb. I'm getting the hose today and then I'll be set! Thanks so much for the info!
 
HemiMark - found it on Ebay. Brand new - looks almost identical to the original. I think it's closer to a 67-72 Carter BBD replacement, because it doesn't have 2 emission related vacuum connections that my original one did. I just capped those off. Unbelievable performance difference from the original. I took it out Sunday for a spin and got rubber flooring it from a stop - has 2.45 gears in a 8.25 rear. it's never done that before!
 
I have an inquiry for Slant Six Dan , pertaining to an elabouration on the 'car-came-with-an-eec-cannister-originally-but-now-it's-missing' I also have a 1971 Demon ( 318/904/8.25"/2.71's ) , which is also an "N95" ( California Emissions ) car . The EEC canister was full of vacuum leaks , so , seeing that I don't have to concern myself with emissions' inspections , I pulled the stupid thing ( but , I did keep it ) and simply ran a fuel hose from the BBD's bowl vent to the fuel tank return line ; now I think there's a problem with drive ability : low-RPM bucking , and carbon crap-prints from the single exhaust ; mid-to-high RPM drive ability is good however .
The fuel cap is the correct , non-vented cap ( and it's new ) ; the ignition consists of factory-original electronic distributor ( converted by me via salvage yard dist and
wiring , from a 1973 Duster ) , 4-prong ballast , Pertronix transformer , and an 'Orange Box' amplifier .
From reading your reply to this thread , I'm gathering that it's okay to simply leave the bowl vent open ( e.g. , non-capped ) ; but , what about the fuel tank return line
( the metal line which originally connected -- by rubber fuel hose -- to the "PURGE" or "RETURN" portion of the evap canister , can't remember which right-off ) ? Is it okay to let it just vent into nothing ? I -believe- that how the tank's were vented prior to 1970
( 1972 on non-Air Grabber-equipped cars , regardless of engine ) , but I could be wrong ...
Thanks much !
** I apologise if it seems that I'm hi-jacking this thread ; I'm not trying to , I just wanted to add to it :) **
 
I have an inquiry for Slant Six Dan , pertaining to an elabouration on the 'car-came-with-an-eec-cannister-originally-but-now-it's-missing' I also have a 1971 Demon ( 318/904/8.25"/2.71's ) , which is also an "N95" ( California Emissions ) car . The EEC canister was full of vacuum leaks , so , seeing that I don't have to concern myself with emissions' inspections , I pulled the stupid thing ( but , I did keep it ) and simply ran a fuel hose from the BBD's bowl vent to the fuel tank return line ; now I think there's a problem with drive ability : low-RPM bucking , and carbon crap-prints from the single exhaust ; mid-to-high RPM drive ability is good however .
The fuel cap is the correct , non-vented cap ( and it's new ) ; the ignition consists of factory-original electronic distributor ( converted by me via salvage yard dist and
wiring , from a 1973 Duster ) , 4-prong ballast , Pertronix transformer , and an 'Orange Box' amplifier .
From reading your reply to this thread , I'm gathering that it's okay to simply leave the bowl vent open ( e.g. , non-capped ) ; but , what about the fuel tank return line
( the metal line which originally connected -- by rubber fuel hose -- to the "PURGE" or "RETURN" portion of the evap canister , can't remember which right-off ) ? Is it okay to let it just vent into nothing ? I -believe- that how the tank's were vented prior to 1970
( 1972 on non-Air Grabber-equipped cars , regardless of engine ) , but I could be wrong ...
Thanks much !
** I apologise if it seems that I'm hi-jacking this thread ; I'm not trying to , I just wanted to add to it :) **
 
scamp80602 said:
HemiMark - found it on Ebay. Brand new - looks almost identical to the original. I think it's closer to a 67-72 Carter BBD replacement, because it doesn't have 2 emission related vacuum connections that my original one did. I just capped those off. Unbelievable performance difference from the original. I took it out Sunday for a spin and got rubber flooring it from a stop - has 2.45 gears in a 8.25 rear. it's never done that before!
Click to expand...

I realize this is an old post, but is that carb still working well for you? Just about to pull the trigger in buying the same thing for my mother's 1970 Satellite with 318.
 
Hi 70dust. I have since sold the car, but here's what I can tell you. When I 1st put it on, I was having hard starting trouble with it. I took the car to a carb shop and they found the accelerator pump to be damaged - the rubber piece on the end was folded over apparently when assembled. They replaced it, and it then started fine. Performance of the new carb vs. original carb was outstanding. I've never driven a 318 with as much pep as this car. Well worth the money for the carb, including the cost of the repair too. The carb is almost exactly like the original factory 2bbl. I was not able to find any info on the manufacturer, and the assembly quality may be a bit suspect, based on my experience. Good luck!
 
scamp80602 said:
Hi 70dust. I have since sold the car, but here's what I can tell you. When I 1st put it on, I was having hard starting trouble with it. I took the car to a carb shop and they found the accelerator pump to be damaged - the rubber piece on the end was folded over apparently when assembled. They replaced it, and it then started fine. Performance of the new carb vs. original carb was outstanding. I've never driven a 318 with as much pep as this car. Well worth the money for the carb, including the cost of the repair too. The carb is almost exactly like the original factory 2bbl. I was not able to find any info on the manufacturer, and the assembly quality may be a bit suspect, based on my experience. Good luck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the information, scamp. I went ahead and bought the carb from ebay. Car seems to run ok except for a bog after initial acceleration from a stop, when cold. Also, idle seems excessively low after a hot start. I need to play with the timing a little and see if that helps. Manufacturer of the carb was stated as "rally" which apparently is an offshore manufacturer. Thanks again.
 
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