318 complete combo suggestions...

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AJ/FormS said:
OP
IF...... my 367 felt BB strong, even just 400BB strong, that would be 400/367=Plus 9%. Applying that logic, to a stout 318+.020, would make it feel like a 1.09x323= 351cubes. While you can make a 9.2Scr 318 feel stronger than it is, with stall and gear; direct gear and 3.55s, will always reveal the truth. And for a cruiser, stall and gear is the wrong way to go. That leaves just cubes, Effective pressure, and supercharging.
The cruiser useage, throws up a wall for the 318 at about 2400 and 3.23s. That leaves just pressure, supercharging, and overdrive. IMO.
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Aluminum Edelbrock knock offs. CNC ported.
2.08/1.60, Weiand Stealth, 750 Edelbrock AFB
It actually is a tick (.2) under 11-1. The cam is a Hyd. roller. Soon to arrive, 1.6 rockers.

AJ/FormS said:
I ran a tic under 11/1, w/cam @[email protected], on 87E10, @367 cubes
aluminum heads, fresh-air, clutch, 3.55s, and in a 68Barracuda at 3650 pounds. The bottom end was, by all opinions, BB strong.

If yur doin' it with iron; kudus to you.
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PRH said:
I haven’t built a 318 in quite a few years.
KB/Icon lists the deck height for the 318 as 9.578 instead on the 9.599 listed for 340/360 blocks(and 9.585 for Magnum motors).

I don’t know if that’s accurate or not, but my recollection is that the deck heights are different between them, but I wouldn’t swear to it.

So..... 318 decks shorter than 340/360...... fact or fiction?

I don’t have a 318 block here, otherwise I’d just measure it myself.
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Boy, that is an interesting question.....Fiction from all I have ever found. I've noticed that number in KB/Icon, and have no idea how that got in there....
318 deck heights - Moparchat - Home of MOPAR enthusiasts worldwide!
 
you do not have to deck the block to zero
just to get the quench you want with available gaskets
that said I take cc out of the head and get some more flow by unshrouding the valves
first cc the heads and see what the real cc's are or did you do that and I missed that (most likely forgot)
cheers
Aj has it right
the cam should pick your rpm range
get that nailed down
then build the motor to match
not the other way around ending up with too much compression and too big a cam and starting off on tha

I WROTE THIS EARLIER AND IT DID NOT POST- NO IDEA IF IT STILL FITS IN OR WHERE IT FITS
 
Wyrmrider said:
Aj has it right
the cam should pick your rpm range
get that nailed down
then build the motor to match
not the other way around ending up with too much compression and too big a cam and starting off on that
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Oh that’s funny as heck. I say the same thing you jump on my *** for not being specific enough and write back inverse lobe solid ....
:rofl:
 
Wyrmrider said:
the cam should pick your rpm range
get that nailed down
then build the motor to match
not the other way around ending up with too much compression and too big a cam and starting off on tha
Click to expand...
and starting off on the wrong path.fixt it, I think,lol.


Just too add; it's always better to start with lots of pressure, lots of gasket, and a small cam; cuz a bigger cam with it's later-closing intake valve, will trap less pressure, avoiding detonation. But if you didn't have detonation with the small cam, you can always take gasket out, to maintain pressure. There is only a small window of effectiveness to this plan; maybe 2 or so sizes, Depending on original parameters; before the bottom-end goes soft.
Unless you start with aluminum heads and very high pressure.
Each size (7*) drops the pressure about 6 psi, so from 190psi estimated max for alloys, to 165psi (which you can do with iron), is 25 psi or ~4 sizes . Combine that with a gasket change from .050Q max to .030Q minimum, or about 4cc, you might get another 1/2 size in there. I'm too lazy today to do the math, cuz Rumble's in a good mood, and I don't want to spoil it with another long post,lol..
 
AJ nailed the way I do it. I zero deck the flat top slugs and use a gasket to drop the ratio. If there in the hole to deep, the thinnest head gasket won’t help in what you may end up lacking. Bringing a domed slug flat area to the same zero deck height and you can get a max compression return or, again, drop it down with a gasket.

If you want to build a low compression mill (9.0-1 or less) with a small cam, then the piston placement becomes more importation know exactly where it will sit.

Skip the math lessons. There not needed.
 
glad rumble is in a good mood
I said what where? He said what where?
bfd
what matters i how his 10.8 al head build goes
1.6 rockers-great idea
 
Wyrmrider said:
glad rumble is in a good mood
I said what where? He said what where?
bfd
what matters i how his 10.8 al head build goes
1.6 rockers-great idea
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I’m almost always in a good mood.
(You guys read me wrong all the time. But that’s OK.)
Even when this happened to me yesterday 20 miles from home at unknown high speeds fooling around... WHOOOPSIE!!!
image.jpg
 
sorry about that rumble
at least you had something to catch the parts
been me that drive shaft would have turned into a pole vault
 
Thanks. It just falls under that category of “Pain and woe of a hot rodders life.” It is what it is. All well!
It’ll be a year before I get this fixed. The wife’s ‘67 needs some parts. It’ll be about the same cost as the trans and converter for me. But her car will be done as far as I’m going to take it for her. If she wants more, then she can save up her money and get greasy herself.
(Which she has zero problems with.)

I got my own crap to get to. Raising a soda pop up to toast for hope! Gurgle gurgle gurgle..... belch... Ahhhhhh
 
Garrett Ellison said:
Okay, I read the last post, I was hoping you were talking about a near stock rebuild of your original block. With your goals in mind, you’re one step past a stock rebuild. All the suggestions here are really good, but here’s how I would do it. If the bores are good, reuse your stock pistons, basic rehone and re ring, reverse the pistons on the rods, get deck milled to zero. If you need to bore it, sealed power cast flat tops with four valve reliefs, install with notch to rear of block, get the deck milled to zero. It will make a little extra noise but also make extra power , i.e. piston slap. Use your stock heads, have them milled to 60cc chamber volume. Use Fel-Pro Permatorque SD gaskets. This will give you between 9.5-10:1 compression, so plan on premium pump gas. Add hardened exhaust valve seats and 1.88/1.60 valves with some extra chamber cuts during the mandatory three angle valve job. Add in some mild home porting ala’ 318willrun (bowl blending and intake gasket match). Use a Crower 3198 cam & spring kit, an edelbrock basic performer intake (available everywhere used for cheap, and it works!) with an edelbrock AVS2 650. Run a set of Dougs headers with a minimum of 2-1/2 inch dual exhausts with an x pipe. Install a complete FBO Mopar ignition kit. Add in 2.94 gears with a 27-28 inch rear tire. If you want the extra around town to interstate “romp and merge” power, run an a999 lockup torqueflite (2.74 & 1.55 ratios) with a custom converter from PTC or Ultimate. I only recommend this combination because I have a similar setup with 10:1 and a sealed power CS1143r cam (222/232 @ .050, .443/.450 lift, 112 LSA) with headers and 1.78/1.50 valves on a three angle cut. Blows stock size (215/70-14) tires off at will with 2.76 gears, 904 and factory replacement type high stall converter. It will do everything you want it to, have power you can feel just off of idle, and will surprise you with how strong a 318 can run when you do decide to air it out.
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I just posted a new thread about building a possible 318 or 360 in my 72 scamp. Torn right now but this sounds like nice recipe for what I am looking for as well. Not looking for a street screamer but a nice all around driver, with enough power to have bit of fun, but mainly to take the wife a kind out for ice cream on sundays and take to some local shows. Have a 318 in the car already so trying to decide if I am going to keep number matching or go to a 360.
 
Mgarrett88 said:
I just posted a new thread about building a possible 318 or 360 in my 72 scamp. Torn right now but this sounds like nice recipe for what I am looking for as well. Not looking for a street screamer but a nice all around driver, with enough power to have bit of fun, but mainly to take the wife a kind out for ice cream on sundays and take to some local shows. Have a 318 in the car already so trying to decide if I am going to keep number matching or go to a 360.
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Simple upgrades are easy and mostly eye candy of your flavor. Pick a 600 cfm carb you like and know how to work on. A Performer or LD4B (IIRC) is very good on the 318. Upgrade your ignition and recurve the distributor. If your not willing to spend on a new converter, your cam should stay under 218@050 & that kind of depends on what gear ratio and tire size you want to end up with.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Simple upgrades are easy and mostly eye candy of your flavor. Pick a 600 cfm carb you like and know how to work on. A Performer or LD4B (IIRC) is very good on the 318. Upgrade your ignition and recurve the distributor. If your not willing to spend on a new converter, your cam should stay under 218@050 & that kind of depends on what gear ratio and tire size you want to end up with.
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Budget really is not the issue right now. I am willing to spend the money I just am torn on what what way to go. When I pull the 318 out Plan to rebuild the entire motor with pistons rods, and all, or jump to a 360. Dont know which way to go so hearing different "recipes" that are out there helps thats for sure.
My requirements... what to build?

Above is the link to the thread I started with my requirements and what I am looking to do. Very similar it sounds to the requirement in this thread minus the 8 hour road trips.
 
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