318 crank pulley correct size??

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megavites

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So I'm looking to replace the crank pulley on my 1975 318 block with pwr steering and no A/C.
Its a two groove, 7 7/8" OD, by 4" OD on block side and about 3 3/4" deep.
This motor is in a 67 b-body, but you guys no alot more about small blocks than bbodiesonly.
(don't tell'em I said that)
Anyway, finding specs on the correct pulley size has been difficult.
I don't know where this pulley came from.
The closest I've found is 7 3/8" at Crankshaft Pulley with Power Steering w/o AC
Anyone know exactly what I need?
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This motor is in a 67 b-body, but you guys no alot more about small blocks than bbodiesonly.
(don't tell'em I said that)

We like all Mopars here, not just a-bodies... :thumbsup:

And yes, we know more than the b-bodiesonly guys... :poke:

We won't tell them that... We'll let them keep thinking they are the experts over there... :popcorn:
 
We like all Mopars here, not just a-bodies... :thumbsup:

And yes, we know more than the b-bodiesonly guys... :poke:

We won't tell them that... We'll let them keep thinking they are the experts over there... :popcorn:
I'm confused. I think I have an A/C pulley. I didn't realize it has 3 grooves and it appears the belts were on the two closest to the block. My new 2 groove (non-A/C) matches up with two outer grooves. (compare pic below)
When I look at the 3 groove pulley, it looks completly different (bottom pic)
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crankshaft-pulley-with-power-steering-ac-5.gif
 
I'm confused. I think I have an A/C pulley. I didn't realize it has 3 grooves and it appears the belts were on the two closest to the block. My new 2 groove (non-A/C) matches up with two outer grooves. (compare pic below)
When I look at the 3 groove pulley, it looks completly different (bottom pic)
View attachment 1715057524View attachment 1715057525

Are you using the proper alternator bracket??? It's different from a/c to non-a/c...

5251 alternator brackets - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

Alternator Mounting Kit

You will also need a single groove alternator pulley, not a double groove for everything to line up properly with a double groove crank pulley and single groove water pump pulley that I posted before...
 
Are you using the proper alternator bracket??? It's different from a/c to non-a/c...

5251 alternator brackets - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

Alternator Mounting Kit

You will also need a single groove alternator pulley, not a double groove for everything to line up properly with a double groove crank pulley and single groove water pump pulley that I posted before...
my current setup is a single groove alternator and water pump pulley. Motor is at machine shop, so I can't even mock up.
Do the water pump pulleys come with different depths?
 
my current setup is a single groove alternator and water pump pulley. Motor is at machine shop, so I can't even mock up.
Do the water pump pulleys come with different depths?

The one that I posted is supposed to be the correct one for non-A/C applications... That's what worked on ours...

A/C uses a double belt and double pulleys to drive it...

Non A/C only uses single pulley and belt...

If you use the proper combination, it will line up correctly with the aluminum water pump...

Cast iron water pump takes different pulleys...
 
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The one that I posted is supposed to be the correct one for non-A/C applications... That's what worked on ours...

A/C uses a double belt and double pulleys to drive it...

Non A/C only uses single pulley and belt...

If you use the proper combination, it will line up correctly with the aluminum water pump...

Cast iron water pump takes different pulleys...
Kuda, educate me. I have the 30787 water pump. This appear to be the cast iron pump (magnet sticks)
So it seems that since I'm planning on replacing the pump, going for the alum. pump would match pulley.
My problem is ...I have a drivers side lower radiator hose outlet. So with current crank pulley..I would need alum. pump, new water pump pulley and passenger side lower hose radiator.
 
Kuda, educate me. I have the 30787 water pump. This appear to be the cast iron pump (magnet sticks)
So it seems that since I'm planning on replacing the pump, going for the alum. pump would match pulley.
My problem is ...I have a drivers side lower radiator hose outlet. So with current crank pulley..I would need alum. pump, new water pump pulley and passenger side lower hose radiator.

If you're putting it into a pre-69 body, then you should go with the cast iron water pump. Then it will match the outlet on the original radiator. If you go with aluminum water pump, then you have to change the radiator to the 70 and later style so the outlet is on the proper side... They changed the side of the lower radiator hose outlet from 69 to 70. You also need to get the proper timing chain cover to match the water pump outlet, otherwise the lower hose will block the timing marks... The timing marks also changed sides with the water pump... I find it easier to match the body with the engine. Build the engine for the body that you are going to put it in...

If you run the cast iron water pump, then you will also need to get the proper alternator brackets as they changed for the different water pumps...

You need to tell me what you have and I can tell you what you need to do to get it to work...

Post some pictures of the front of the engine and the engine compartment showing the radiator so we know what we're working with...
 
Kuda
Its going in a 67 satellite. Heres pics of engine before pulling it along with water pump timing cover (marks on driver side)
and radiator with lower drivers side port.
Just realized alt. Is a two groove.
I think i just need the correct crank pulley cause it looks like this used to be an a/c car.
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29518-36 is the single groove non A/C water pump pulley you are probably looking for.
 
Kuda
Its going in a 67 satellite. Heres pics of engine before pulling it along with water pump timing cover (marks on driver side)
and radiator with lower drivers side port.
Just realized alt. Is a two groove.
I think i just need the correct crank pulley cause it looks like this used to be an a/c car.
View attachment 1715058161View attachment 1715058162View attachment 1715058163View attachment 1715058164

Ok, you have the later style timing cover which will cover your timing marks. I would find an older timing cover with timing tab for a 69 and earlier 273/3148/340...

Keep your vibration damper with the crank. If the timing marks are off, just find TDC with a piston stop, then mark the balancer where the pre 69 TDC timing mark is on the pre 69 timing marks.

You have the correct alternator brackets, but may want to consider a single groove pulley on the alt if it doesn't line up with the new water pump pulley...

i don't see any repro early pulleys, but put an ad up in the wanted section for a 67-69 water pump single groove pulley...

Then see if everything lines up....

Now you can get the proper molded upper and lower radiator hoses for the original style radiator which you are using...
 
Ok. Currently i have a single groove pump pully. I'd like to get away with just getting the crank pulley for now, so im guessing the mancini 4 groove will work. Its just odd if you look at the pic of the current crank pulley. It has its own drilled counterweight.
The new crank pulleys dont have anything like that
 
That counterweight on your 3 groove pulley is held in place with a rubber insert. It is almost like some sort of damper ring but for what purpose, I don't know. I wonder if it is off of another engine, or perhaps a supplementary vibration damper for the AC compressor vibrations.

You may want to look at CVF Racing if you are OK with aluminum pulleys. They have quite a variety.

Yeah on FBBO it's 'big block or no block' LOL.
 
Ok. Currently i have a single groove pump pully. I'd like to get away with just getting the crank pulley for now, so im guessing the mancini 4 groove will work. Its just odd if you look at the pic of the current crank pulley. It has its own drilled counterweight.
The new crank pulleys dont have anything like that

Here's an early style timing cover that's supposed to have the bolt on timing marks, but they are not in the ad... See what kind of deal you can get if you want the proper timing cover for the early style LA engines...

[FOR SALE] - 67-68 Timing Cover and Felpro Gasket Set
 
And if you change timing covers and have a later damper (which all the new ones seems to be), then you will have to make a new mark on the damper to work with the timing marks over on the passenger side.
 
just an update...I decided to stick with the 75 timing cover. Since I needed a new wtr pump, I went with the alum. pass. side exit and found a pass. lwr side exit radiator (mine was from a 63 413BB apparently).
Also, a set of CVF pulleys...cause...it was fathers day....and I earned it. :thumbsup:
kuda and nm9, thankyou for all the input! Don't worry, there be other questions coming.
 
And there will be answers..... let's just hope some of them match the questions LOL.

I would think that your original rad would be worth something for someone restoring or cloning a wedge engined B body..
 
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