318 exhaust manifolds on a 360

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. Treblig

    Treblig Well-Known Member

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    Hey RRR, How're you doing?????
    What's special about the manifold is that you can only buy one with the 2 1/4" (approx.) exit hole and the best configuration (shape) from me. If you could pick one up at the corner store it wouldn't be special??? I've also noticed that members here LOVE a mystery! Many, many members have started threads with, "What is this?" or "Can anyone tell where this fits?" or "Does anyone know what this casting number goes to", etc, etc. I was going to see how long it was going to take for all you Mopar veterans to figure it out. I've only been into Mopars for a few years (if you don't include back in the day...LOL). So I spent many months doing research and a few hundred dollars to come up with this manifold.
    I don't expect to sell very many although I already have one buyer waiting for a shipping estimate. All I know is that I don't like headers (or header prices). I don't drag race, although I do like to burn the tires off every now and then. I also know that my city had millions of speed bumps (not good for headers). I also know that it doesn't do any good to have 2 1/2" exhaust all the way back if you are choking the engine off at the manifold. So for all these reasons I came up with a solution and I'm willing to sell the fruits of my labor, investment and research.
    To be brutally honest....I thought you would be one of the first to know the casting number. What I really like about this manifold is that it is heavy cast and seasoned. My old 318 manifolds kept warping as you tighten the bolts and no amount of gasket would help. They just made them to thin. These ones that I have are super thick. I only have 3 in stock and I'm trying to get more. If they don't sell I'm stuck with them (my loss).

    LET THE GAMES BEGIN!!!!!!!

    Treblig
     
  2. Treblig

    Treblig Well-Known Member

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    Here are the pics I promised. The first and second pic are of the '76 318 manifold I have then the 3rd and 4th pics are of my '69 Barracuda 318 manifold. The '76 small block manifold is close to 1 3/4" while the stock '69 Cuda is a hair less than 1 3/4" ( earlier I had said 1 7/8", I only wish). Anyway, this shows one reason why you are very limited on power output on a 318/360. With manifold exit holes of 1 3/4" or less the poor engine can't breath (exhale)....no matter how big your pipes are!!!!
    The small block manifolds I'm selling are just a little under 2 1/4". If you run these manifolds with 2 1/4 exhaust pipes (or larger) your small block can breath pretty good without the hassle and expense of the headers.
    Of course you do have to find a 340 driver's side like I did and you have to have the 360 head exhaust surface (the one with the provision for the smog ports) or 302 casting heads. If you're not sure about the smog port thing....if you look at the 1st or second to the last pic you can see the extra metal (machined surface) just below the ports on the '76 manifold, this machined area is missing on the older manifold. This is also the area that so many members have trouble getting the larger 360 manifold ports to seal because the old 318 heads don't have enough machined surface below the port to seal against the larger 360 manifolds.


    More pics later.........
    Treblig
     

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  3. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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  4. RustyRatRod

    RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      Well that depends...the Grand Cherokee manifold didn't come with a 2 1/4" exit hole, I know because I bought one just to find out (I told you I spent a few hundred dollars searching/researching). I don't know of any newer small block manifold (70s and up) except 340 that had an exit hole that big. Did you verify/check the exit hole on the manifold you show in your ebay hot key?? Or are you saying that it just looks like the ones I sell?? I'll bet $100 it isn't as large as the ones I'm selling??? But you are getting close...I knew you were smarter than you let on earlier.

      Treblig
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      Here's some more. Seems there's several variations. With or without the O2 sensor hole. With or without the heat shield holes.

      [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/96-98-Grand-Cherokee-RH-Exhaust-Manifold-5-2-5-9-Jeep-53009376-/111205880964?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19e4631484&vxp=mtr"]96 98 Grand Cherokee RH Exhaust Manifold 5 2 5 9 Jeep 53009376 | eBay[/ame]

      [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-94-95-96-97-98-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-RIGHT-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/251384629495?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a87b108f7&vxp=mtr"]93 94 95 96 97 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee Right Exhaust Manifold | eBay[/ame]

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-94-95-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-R-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-53608-/270917545577?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item3f13f1ae69&vxp=mtr

      [ame="http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-DODGE-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-318-5-2L-V-8-ENGINE-PASSENGER-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/290906816368?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bb65bf70&vxp=mtr"]1995 Dodge Jeep Grand Cherokee 318 5 2L V 8 Engine Passenger Exhaust Manifold | eBay[/ame]

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-JEEP-G...el:Grand+Cherokee&hash=item27cb960ff1&vxp=mtr
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      Yes they did. I've worked on them MYSELF. Look at all the links I posted. The Jeep Forum link. They are showing Grand Cherokee manifolds. 2.25" outlet. I've seen a lot of them in person, up close and personal. Look at all of them in the links I posted. It's pretty evident they all have large openings, even though you cannot see the outlets head on. They are large.
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      I do plan to give out the information for everyone to use. But can't I have a little fun testing everyone's knowledge. I had no intention of keeping the information to myself. You didn't see me hide anything when I stuck that 2004R into my Barracuda did you??? I spilled my guts out and took pics to boot.
      Besides, if you had all this info why didn't you tell anyone????
      http://apicdn.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&key=508e022f256315a50e8e5af8c001704f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forabodiesonly.com%2Fmopar%2Fshowthread.php%3Fp%3D1970445847%26posted%3D1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.jeepforum.com%2Fforum%2Ff13%2F5-2-header-options-1140171%2Findex2.html&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.forabodiesonly.com%2Fmopar%2Fnewreply.php%3Fdo%3Dnewreply%26p%3D1970445836

      Treblig
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      Look at the outlet on this one. And it's the matching driver's side. Ends in a 77 instead of a 76. Sorry, but that's a LARGE outlet. Somebody oughtta try one of those on the driver's side. This really ain't new news. We already knew the Magnum Manifolds off the Dakotas and Trucks would fit and they have the big outlets too.

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/93-95-96-97-98-JEEP-GRAND-CHEROKEE-L-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/170919301169?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AGrand+Cherokee&hash=item27cb959031&vxp=mtr
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      I was trying to give you the chance since it was you who brought it up. You covered up the castin number like you were tryin to hide it, so don't act like it was me tryin to hide it. lol
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      You're absolutely correct. The manifold at the wed site you posted does have very large ports...almost as large as the ones I'm selling and they would work well on a small block. I know the exact size because I bought various manifold just to find out, including the one you posted!! But what I was hoping to do is get something that got closer to the 340 size. It really bothered me that I had to buy and expensive 340 manifold when there were so many other manifolds out there.

      Treblig
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      I was absolutely trying to hide it to see if anyone out there could figure out what it was. I wasn't trying to piss anybody off. If I wanted to make enemies I would just keep it all to myself and never tell anyone anything. If you've read any of my posts...I tell everyone everything!!
      I was hoping to give it a few days to see if anyone could figure it out but you're taking all the fun out of it!!!!! Loosen up man, I didn't spend many, many hours researching and a few hundred dollars just to keep it all to myself?????

      Treblig
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      I think you're takin this way too seriously. Like I said. I wasn't the one appearing to hide stuff. That just never looks good. I never accused you of anything.....but you're getting mighty defensive. I was poking at you with a stick more than anything. But hay, if you wanna be enemies over it, I ain't skeered. I got plenty of them already. You won't get no cherry. lol
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      Enemies!!! Are you crazy??? I'm the guy who wrote that long letter from Dewey, Cheatham and Howe, attorneys at Law, back when you told everyone that you weren't going to post anymore. I said in the letter that you weren't going to post anymore and you weren't going to post any less either. Don't you remember the "Poor little Cone Style"" controversy... I backed you up!!! I'm don't need any more enemies. PEACE!!


      Treblig
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      I found a way for RRR to keep his word and still contribute!!!:blob:. In his last post he wrote the "reason" that he didn't write anything. His reason was that "Last edited by RustyRatRod; 12-25-2013 at 05:51 PM. Reason: Cause I ain't contributing anymore." RRR is a man of his word and we would never want him to contribute "ANYMORE" just like I don't drink alcohol "ANYMORE"...I still drink the same amount I always have. We don't want RRR to contribute "ANYMORE" or "ANYLESS" than what he normally contributes. The amount of contributions from RRR has always been "JUST RIGHT"!! So I agree with RRR, he should not contribute ANYMORE than he usually contributes!! And he shouldn't contribute "ANYLESS" either.
      From the distinguished law firm of "Dewey, Cheatham and Howe"!!!


      PS - It's not what the books/experts say......It's "what works" that counts!!!! I've proved many an engineer wrong in my days , AND THEY HATE IT!!!!

      Treblig
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    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      It's all good dude. I think it's a good thing cause we're findin more manifolds that might work.
       
    • Woods74

      Woods74 Broke Senior

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      What we need is a manifold that fits the driver side, there are only so many 340's.
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      Thanks RRR,

      Treblig
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      I'm working on it but I'll have to spend more money up front, at the risk of getting banished...LOL. The only way you can figure this stuff out is to buy up any and all manifolds that you think might work. At one time I had over 11 different manifolds and I didn't get one for free..If only I owned a junk yard!!! And when it's all said and done somebody (me) gets stuck with a bunch of manifolds that don't work!! You can't tell if something will fit or how big the hole is by looking at a picture on ebay. Anyway I'll tell everyone tomorrow how I got this manifold with the extra large hole unless somebody figures it out first. There's a BIG hint in one of my first posts about the manifold so it's not as secret as it seems. I thought for sure someone would catch on. Ya'll are gonna say "Oh yea, we knew that!!". It's all good, I enjoyed doing the research and hopefully I'll break even (moneywise). I'd have to sell 4 or 5 of these to even get my money back so I'm not ripping anybody off. I mean how many of you out there would be willing to spend $300-$400 on a bunch of manifolds that don't work...I did???? RRR got pretty close, he doesn't even realize how close...

      Treblig
       
    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      Why not see if the mate to the one we're talkin about will fit? The 77 one.
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      If you mean this one...It won't fit. I bought this one last year and tried for two days to get it to fit. I even unbolted the driver's side motor mount to lift the engine just so I could try and get it in there so I could see where it was going to hit (interference). If I remember correctly, the exit flange was hitting the starter (can't hardly move the starter). With power steering it's pretty tight. I even tried mounting a passenger side mag truck on the driver's side (backwards, with the exit hole in front) but the power steering and other things were in the way. I haven't given up yet. Luckily I ran across a nice 340 driver's side for $75 (yea, I couldn't believe it either). With the 340 in there all I had to do is find a good substitute for the passenger's side. Now that I got the passenger's side nailed down I might go back to the driver's side and experiment some more but since I already have a 340 in there I would only do it for the glory (and to help out FABO members)!!!! I'm pretty stubborn so you never know. This one (77) might work with manual steering (if it clears the starter) but I don't have a car with manual steering to experiment with. The 77 kicks right into the engine/starter area leaving very little (no) room to hook up the exhaust. I'm a machinist so I very familiar with manufacturing and making things fit where they don't belong. The hard part is buying manifolds that don't work and getting stuck with them, like the one in the pics. I read about some people who have machined the exhaust mating surface at an angle to kick the manifold either toward or away from the engine and away from the steering. That might work but it messes up the angle where the head of manifold bolts (under the bolt head) mate with manifold. This in time would cause bolt failure (heat cycles).

      Treblig
       

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    • RustyRatRod

      RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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      Did you try it with a mini starter?
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      If I remember correctly the mini starter is not any narrower (horizontally) than a regular starter (not by much anyway). The main body is a much smaller diameter but the part of the starter that the manifold (77) was hitting was the solenoid. When I put the 2004R into my Cuda I found that the factory (large) starter was hitting the down pipe (because the TCI adapter kicks the starter out towards the driver's side) so I switched to a mini starter. But as it turns out the mini starter hit the down pipe in the same place (outside portion of the solenoid). Since the manifold was hitting against the starter solenoid on the large starter and the mini starter's solenoid is in the same place (space) it probably will hit the mini starter's solenoid also (especially with the starter even further out towards the driver's side). But, just in case someone else has been able to this (77 manifold in a a-body w/PS), I was never able to get the manifold in deep enough to know exactly where it would end up. In other words, there just wasn't enough room to get the manifold to seat. Since I couldn't get it to completely rest "flush" against the head (exhaust surface) I couldn't determine where I had to grind clearance. I would have had to remove the starter. I could see the bottom of manifold flange against the solenoid but if removed the starter I could never get it back in because the manifold would be right in the way. The only option is try a different manifold (there are many with the larger hole).
      As many others have found, the main problem is the size (diameter) of the power steering box (and to some degree, the steering shaft u-joints). The complementary problem is the great size of the ports inside the manifold. Because of the manifold's large ports (which makes them great for power) it only makes sense that the overall size of the manifold is larger. It's just like the pipes on your headers...the larger the ID the larger the OD except the manifolds are heavy cast iron so they are proportionately larger.
      I'll have some good pics later today to show what I'm talking about. You're asking some great questions!!!!, I'm sure others are reading and learning.


      Treblig
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      Tried to access the FABO last night after 8:45 and for some reason it would not come up. So I had to wait until this morning to tell everyone that "RRR" was correct (more or less) about the manifold. I had said that you could not buy the manifold I was selling from anyone except me. But that's because I modified the 53009376 casting so that it almost perfectly matches the 340 manifold with respect to the exit hole. The 9376 manifold (and all the magnum/Grand Cherokee manifolds I've checked) come with a 2 1/8" hole. The hole size varies a little between 2 1/8" and a little less. The one you buy from the junk yard may vary but I've never seen one that was 2 1/4" unmodified.
      All you need to make one of your own is a manifold (which you can leave as the factory cast it) or you can modify it like I did so that it flows more consistent with the 340 manifold. We all try to get the exhaust as close to the same on both sides so you get equal output from both banks.
      You'll have to buy: (If you don't already have one)
      - a Carbide burr ($12-$25)
      - a compressor ($150 or more)
      - a die grinder ( $50 (electric) at Harbor Frieght unless you use a pneumatic die grinder)
      - You can use a hand drill instead of a die grinder but you'll likely ruin the drill because all hand drills come with axial bearings which are designed to take pressure "straight on" like when you're drilling a hole. Die grinders come with radial bearing which are designed to handle "sideways' pressure.
      - a sand blaster (unless you already own one or just pay $10, like me, to clean the manifold before painting)
      - rotary sanding drums and the rotary sanding drum sandpaper ($10 -$15)
      - an hour or two of careful cutting of the exit hole and the areas leading to the exit hole.

      So unless you have all the tools and the expertise to use them you can have the same manifold I'm selling. I measure and visually check the manifold and remove all the excess material from areas that are out of round and all casting flaws (flashing, casting seams, etc). You have to do it very carefully so you don't destroy/damage the manifold. I also have an extra long carbide burr (this would cost extra unless you already own one) to reach deep into the manifold to smooth the approach to the exit hole. I'm basically porting the manifold. I know many of you have ported your own heads so you might have all the stuff you need. But just like everything else sold in the "For sale"" section, you can do it yourself or buy it already finished so you don't have to spend money on tools that you will seldom use.
      If you don't already own the tools and you can't borrow them from a friend the you'll have to spend around $125 -$175 to buy the manifold and the tools. Or you can let me do all the work and take the time to make one for you. You can also use the manifold as it was cast.
      I buy the correct manifold, pay $10 for the sand blasting, buy the high heat paint and I have already bought all the tools. I'm a machinist so I have thousands of hours of experience grinding and machining all types of metals. I guarantee the manifold to work as advertised and to be as close as to the 340 manifold as possible.
      The one you see in my previous posts is already sold and paid for I have two more in the works. If I don't get any more requests I'll simply stop making them.
      So you can spend $100 (or more) of your own money or buy one from me for $105 plus shipping. I will put these up for sale in the "mechanical parts for sale" section but since the OP was asking about a solution for his car I thought it might help if I talked about it here. Also, I don't have that many in stock so I didn't want to advertise for sale yet.
      The hint that I alluded earlier was the pic of the exit hole (where it can be clearly seen that the hole has been modified (if I really wanted to hide what I was doing I wouldn't have posted that pic). Stock manifolds are never smooth and clean on the inside.


      There's a lot more info on these manifolds but I have to take my little girl to school so I'll post more later today. The pic I just posted is my '69 Barracuda manifold next to the modified manifold....I know which one I want on my car!!!!!!!
      Treblig
       

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      • Like Like x 1
      • Treblig

        Treblig Well-Known Member

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        I forgot to mention that it would also be advisable to use a set of inside calipers (see pic) or a deep throat ball mic. With these tools you can check the wall thickness as you cut so that you don't make any of the walls too thin which would cause a weakness and cracking.
        When I remove metal from the manifold I always make sure that none of the walls are any thinner than the thinnest part of the factory casting. This way the manifold is at least as strong as it was intended to be.
        Treblig
         

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