318 has been sitting for 2 years

[ScampMike]

OK, old school time - does it have fuel and/or spark? So you have fresh fuel - check. When it back fires are you getting a flame or just a gas mist? A flame and you have spark and are probably very close to having it running - the timing is off some - *** around with the dizzy, I usually get the hold down tight-ish so it'll stay where I put it, but I can still move it as needed... no spark and you are either WAY off with the position of the dizzy or it is mounted in 180 degree off. From the conversation so far it is obviously the ignition.. you need to go back to the books and redo the ignition system under the hood.. go slow - check it twice! You took it apart, you CAN put it back together... patience my friend, patience. It ran before, it'll run again. Crazy thought/stupid question here - the rotor is in there right? Just for "fun" - how about a pic or two of under the hood so we can see...??

I turned the actual distributor input shaft not the whole assembly, just for clarification. The assembly is still at the same mark it was the last time it ran.

 

[sireland67]

Check the bulkhead connector and any wiring connector, corrosion will give your fits.

 

[red_duster74]

OK, old school time - does it have fuel and/or spark? So you have fresh fuel - check. When it back fires are you getting a flame or just a gas mist? A flame and you have spark and are probably very close to having it running - the timing is off some - *** around with the dizzy, I usually get the hold down tight-ish so it'll stay where I put it, but I can still move it as needed... no spark and you are either WAY off with the position of the dizzy or it is mounted in 180 degree off. From the conversation so far it is obviously the ignition.. you need to go back to the books and redo the ignition system under the hood.. go slow - check it twice! You took it apart, you CAN put it back together... patience my friend, patience. It ran before, it'll run again. Crazy thought/stupid question here - the rotor is in there right? Just for "fun" - how about a pic or two of under the hood so we can see...??

Originally with the old gas/starter fluid it was just giving me a mist of fuel shooting up. Now with the fresh fuel, distributor turned 180, its shooting flames out of the top. I am going to get more into it this weekend. Currently in the middle of finals week (college student).

 

[red_duster74]

don't mind my roommates comment on the flames.

 

[red_duster74]

Update: Got the carb back on and played with the timing a bit and get her running again. She sounds great and healthy. Now just time to reattach all the linkage to the transmission and bolt up the exhaust flange. Thanks for the help guys.

 

[gorgerider]

Glad to here it's off and running. Good on ya. I throw in the following paragraphs to address your question in post # 17 in case you (or someone else) run in to something like this again.

To statically time it, set the timing where it's supposed to be according to the correct timing mark with the #1 cyl. In other words, when you roll the crank around to #1 at TDC, stop the crank at the correct timing according to the timing mark (4*BTDC or whatever is proper) and not all the way to TDC. Hook up either an old needle-type multimeter or just a 12V test lamp to the coil and to ground. The proper coil terminal is the one coming from the distributor. With the distributor clamp loose and the ignition on, rotate the distributor until the light comes off (or comes on). If you're using the multimeter, the on-off indication is when the needle flips from one side to the other. The goal here is to clamp down the distributor exactly where the engine is supposed to initiate spark to the distributor, to fire.

The caveats: This method to get the timing close is great for 4-cyl. engines. With V-8's there is a lot less margin of rotational movement of the distributor (90 degrees vs. only 45 degrees). The second caveat is I can confirm this method works with points, but I don't know about electronic ignition systems. Third, this also assumes the wires are properly set in the firing order. And if you're having trouble figuring out if you're 180 degrees off, take the valve cover off and check to see if the intake and exhaust valves are both closed (all the way up and the rockers floppy). If the exhaust valve is depressed, you're 180 degrees off.

OK guys, did I get it right?