318 LA Rebuild Advice

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Bewy said:
I would say 'no thanks' to Holley & let them keep their carb......& install an Edel 650 AVS2 carb.
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junkyardhero said:
no can do amigo, those aren't CA compliant. i think they have one or two of the performer series that are 50 state legal, though.

so realistically, considering he's got to deal with the smog officials, that's kind of his best choice short of hunting down a TQ or a Q-jet that would have the right numbers on it or at least pass the eyeball test.
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Pretty much my only two choices as Junkyardhero has said. The TQ for my application had 6 or 7 vacuum ports and a bowl vent; the Holley 0-80555C fulfills that.
 
Did you say; 30" tires and 3.21 gears?
That is a match made in hell.
This equates to 2.89s with 27s. Do yourself a favor and install a Mopar overdrive trans with 4.30 gears which will equate to 3.87s with 27s, and that will punch a big fat hole in your no-performance wall. And in overdrive, it will still cruise at 65=1950. So you can use one of those stump-puller cams.
If you install new low-compression pistons in those open-chamber heads, yur looking for a very disappointing bottom end, which will require a higher stall convertor, which, I hear, are hard to come by for the lock-up transmissions. So don't give away your cylinder pressure.
What that 318 needs, is Cylinder-PRESSURE. Your first offense for pressure is to get rid of the open chambers. The Second is taller high-compression pistons, and third is a tight-LSA cam. These three together can make or break your 318 combo.
The open chamber heads can be made to work with specialty reverse-dome pistons with raised Q-pads. If yur doing pistons anyway, this is one way to keep your open-chamber smog heads. and honestly, for this combo, you do not need more head than you have.
My advice is to no-way install any wide LSA camshaft, it will only kill your bottom-end power, and make yur midrange lazy. This will be unbelievably exacerbated by the combination of 30" tires and 3.21 gears. Don't do it!

If it was my truck; I say;
If it was my truck;
1) no question she is getting an A500/518 and at least 4.30s
2) I am selecting a low-rpm cam, but of around a 106 or less Lsa
3) I'm choosing a Solid lifter cam which will give me four things; 1)more pressure than a similarly sized hydro, and, 2)the ability to fine tune the rpm of peak power (within a small range of course), and the ability to fine-tune the pressure.and 3)size for size, I may gain some lift out of the solid, and 4) she'll rpm better. and 5) If the power peaks at 4800, with my gears being 2.45/1.45/1.00/.69od, the rpm drop from First to Second is to a stinkin 59.18% so;
shifting at 5000rpm/38mph, the rpm drops to 2960, and if she don't got no cylinder-pressure, that's gonna be a stinking performance problem, even with the 4.30s.
This 318 will want to get into Second gear, someplace north of 3300.... which will require a shift rpm of about 5600 rpm (now 43mph). So the little 318 is gonna have to, occasionally I'm sure, go there. Top of Second gear in this combo is 65mph=5000rpm, about a perfect as it gets.
The 2-3 split is better. Holding Second to 5000 rpm, the Rpm drops to 69% so to 3450 this time. But I hardly care cuz at 65mph, my "race", is over.
3) I am cranking up the pressure, right up to the WOT detonation limit of 89 gas, and I will deal with detonation if it shows up. If it doesn't, I'm going to 87 gas.
4) Ima running long-tubes and dual 3" exhaust with the long Dynomax turbo 3-pass mufflers, and full length 3" tailpipes. Ok maybe 2.5zzzz
5) on this combo. I'm gonna try my Offenhauser DualPort with the big Thermoquad on top; and she is getting fresh cold air from NOT under the hood.
6) if I decide to run those factory open-chamber heads, then KB has the step-pistons I will chose and I will machine them to fit for a tight-Q. but
7) honestly, I'd rather get me some alloy heads, flat-tops, and run the cranking-pressure up closer to 190psi, these will also allow more intake duration, and more rpm, and thus have a fatter, flatter power peak.
8) I will be doing some oiling mods for long rod-life, valve cooling, and a 7-qt oilpan.
9) because the cruise rpm is so low, I will need a stand-alone ignition computer, to optimize the cruise timing for max fuel economy ..... or I might swap out the 4.30s for 4.56s .. Oh yeah. with hi-flo alloy heads I am definitely going 4.56s. Cruise will be up at about 2200rpm, which may be cruise tuneable without the computer. I may need an oil-cooler back there , so I guess I'll keep an eye on the temp.
10) because she is now capable of cruising, I'd probably install a second fuel-tank. and for me, I'd be inclined to ditch the 4wd stuff, but, maybe not, lol.
If it was my truck;
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
Did you say; 30" tires and 3.21 gears?
That is a match made in hell.
This equates to 2.89s with 27s. Do yourself a favor and install a Mopar overdrive trans with 4.30 gears which will equate to 3.87s with 27s, and that will punch a big fat hole in your no-performance wall. And in overdrive, it will still cruise at 65=1950. So you can use one of those stump-puller cams.
If you install new low-compression pistons in those open-chamber heads, yur looking for a very disappointing bottom end, which will require a higher stall convertor, which, I hear, are hard to come by for the lock-up transmissions. So don't give away your cylinder pressure.
What that 318 needs, is Cylinder-PRESSURE. Your first offense for pressure is to get rid of the open chambers. The Second is taller high-compression pistons, and third is a tight-LSA cam. These three together can make or break your 318 combo.
The open chamber heads can be made to work with specialty reverse-dome pistons with raised Q-pads. If yur doing pistons anyway, this is one way to keep your open-chamber smog heads. and honestly, for this combo, you do not need more head than you have.
My advice is to no-way install any wide LSA camshaft, it will only kill your bottom-end power, and make yur midrange lazy. This will be unbelievably exacerbated by the combination of 30" tires and 3.21 gears. Don't do it!

If it was my truck; I say;
If it was my truck;
1) no question she is getting an A500/518 and at least 4.30s
2) I am selecting a low-rpm cam, but of around a 106 or less Lsa
3) I'm choosing a Solid lifter cam which will give me four things; 1)more pressure than a similarly sized hydro, and, 2)the ability to fine tune the rpm of peak power (within a small range of course), and the ability to fine-tune the pressure.and 3)size for size, I may gain some lift out of the solid, and 4) she'll rpm better. and 5) If the power peaks at 4800, with my gears being 2.45/1.45/1.00/.69od, the rpm drop from First to Second is to a stinkin 59.18% so;
shifting at 5000rpm/38mph, the rpm drops to 2960, and if she don't got no cylinder-pressure, that's gonna be a stinking performance problem, even with the 4.30s.
This 318 will want to get into Second gear, someplace north of 3300.... which will require a shift rpm of about 5600 rpm (now 43mph). So the little 318 is gonna have to, occasionally I'm sure, go there. Top of Second gear in this combo is 65mph=5000rpm, about a perfect as it gets.
The 2-3 split is better. Holding Second to 5000 rpm, the Rpm drops to 69% so to 3450 this time. But I hardly care cuz at 65mph, my "race", is over.
3) I am cranking up the pressure, right up to the WOT detonation limit of 89 gas, and I will deal with detonation if it shows up. If it doesn't, I'm going to 87 gas.
4) Ima running long-tubes and dual 3" exhaust with the long Dynomax turbo 3-pass mufflers, and full length 3" tailpipes. Ok maybe 2.5zzzz
5) on this combo. I'm gonna try my Offenhauser DualPort with the big Thermoquad on top; and she is getting fresh cold air from NOT under the hood.
6) if I decide to run those factory open-chamber heads, then KB has the step-pistons I will chose and I will machine them to fit for a tight-Q. but
7) honestly, I'd rather get me some alloy heads, flat-tops, and run the cranking-pressure up closer to 190psi, these will also allow more intake duration, and more rpm, and thus have a fatter, flatter power peak.
8) I will be doing some oiling mods for long rod-life, valve cooling, and a 7-qt oilpan.
9) because the cruise rpm is so low, I will need a stand-alone ignition computer, to optimize the cruise timing for max fuel economy ..... or I might swap out the 4.30s for 4.56s .. Oh yeah. with hi-flo alloy heads I am definitely going 4.56s. Cruise will be up at about 2200rpm, which may be cruise tuneable without the computer. I may need an oil-cooler back there , so I guess I'll keep an eye on the temp.
10) because she is now capable of cruising, I'd probably install a second fuel-tank. and for me, I'd be inclined to ditch the 4wd stuff, but, maybe not, lol.
If it was my truck;
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Wow! A lot of big time information here. The 4WD stuff is essential because I have property in the Sierra Nevada mountain range which can only be accessed through forestry service roads/old logging routes.

Pistons found:
Wiseco - # 5529AS flat top with two valve reliefs for -5.00 cc piston head volume
KB Performance - # KB399KTM.STD which is a dome with two valve reliefs for -6.00 cc piston head volume.

I'll be looking at 9.5 CR at the minimum then and wouldn't the higher cylinder pressure you're emphasizing result in a better burn? i.e. a more efficient engine, fuel economy, and some added HP.

Smog check program: "Visual inspection of emissions-control equipment and systems. Functional inspection of the vehicle's check engine light, ignition timing, exhaust gas recirculation system, fuel evaporative system, and gas cap. Functional inspection of the vehicle's on-board diagnostic (OBD) system. Tailpipe emissions inspection."

- Well, it doesn't say anything in regards to aftermarket systems they won't be able to see.
- I intend to never see 5,000 rpm in this truck
- The current rear axle ratio being upgraded to a 3.55 is a tomorrow problem. Running to pass the test is first.
 
If you're going to run what Ca considers gasoline, and use cast iron heads 9.5 CR is about max you can go without it detonating. Even at 9.5 you may have to run premium. It'll help if you get just the right ignition advance curves. Going to aluminum heads, you can go about a point higher.
 
Koadhen said:
What is the reasoning to running a split pattern cam when using stock manifolds?
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Because they have more exhaust lift and duration to help with poorer flowing manifolds. ...as long as it's not a reverse grind and you don't need "that".
 
Two things that I didn't see mentioned here, the use of a curve kit and converting to a hei ignition system. Run a gm 4 pin control module and matching coil, this will provide a hotter spark and the plug gap can be opened up to 0.050"- 0.55" by doing so will make for a better burn of the intake charge which helps power and emissions.
 
Dan the man said:
Two things that I didn't see mentioned here, the use of a curve kit and converting to a hei ignition system. Run a gm 4 pin control module and matching coil, this will provide a hotter spark and the plug gap can be opened up to 0.050"- 0.55" by doing so will make for a better burn of the intake charge which helps power and emissions.
Click to expand...
with the smog test, there is a visual inspection so they'll want to see the stock components under the hood. it's *highly* unlikely that a testing station would even know what a 1982 dodge distributor, ECU and coil even look like, and as such would reference the official data they have access to, which naturally, would be pictures of stock stuff.

so then, them seeing something that is not stock, give you an automatic fail.

the exception to this rule, would be a emissions legal MSD HEI type distributor which has an executive order that specifically allows for them, but also has a near $600 price tag.

all of this is to say that the OEM chrysler EI is fine for this application.
 
junkyardhero said:
with the smog test, there is a visual inspection so they'll want to see the stock components under the hood. it's *highly* unlikely that a testing station would even know what a 1982 dodge distributor, ECU and coil even look like, and as such would reference the official data they have access to, which naturally, would be pictures of stock stuff.

so then, them seeing something that is not stock, give you an automatic fail.

the exception to this rule, would be a emissions legal MSD HEI type distributor which has an executive order that specifically allows for them, but also has a near $600 price tag.

all of this is to say that the OEM chrysler EI is fine for this application.
Click to expand...
I forgot about him living in California. What about the curve kit?
 
junkyardhero said:
with the smog test, there is a visual inspection so they'll want to see the stock components under the hood. it's *highly* unlikely that a testing station would even know what a 1982 dodge distributor, ECU and coil even look like, and as such would reference the official data they have access to, which naturally, would be pictures of stock stuff.

so then, them seeing something that is not stock, give you an automatic fail.

the exception to this rule, would be a emissions legal MSD HEI type distributor which has an executive order that specifically allows for them, but also has a near $600 price tag.

all of this is to say that the OEM chrysler EI is fine for this application.
Click to expand...
All 100% valid
 
Dan the man said:
I forgot about him living in California. What about the curve kit?
Click to expand...
as long as it's out of sight and you pass the sniff test, they're not gonna give you static.

a long time ago, i had a 73 buick with a 455 that i had rebuilt with rivera heads (higher compression) and a crower cam. it had 2.5" exhaust with a cross over all the way to the bumper. when they started it up on the rollers for the test everybody in the shop stopped what they were doing to look. the guy at the desk looked at me, smiled and said: that's not stock...

after i got my passing grade, i went home and put back in the GM HEI unit, dialed the timing back in and swapped my "other" q-jet and aircleaner back on. the stock stuff went back on the shelf till the next time i had to go in.

thing is, smog check here is BIG business. it used to be that some of the shops would squeak you thru if it wasn't too egregious, or there used to be "smog hook ups" where you paid some ungodly amount and just got a cert. from some shady so and so.

but now, with the repercussions and penalties for the shops-- fines in the tens of thousands of dollars, plus fees for investigation, plus getting bounced off the BAR, it's basically play it straight. so for older stuff, they just go straight to the book. and if your stuff don't look like the book? too bad, so sad. here's your F and try again.
 
Update:

Plastigauged the main and all connecting rod bearings:

Mains = all .002 marker
Connecting Rods = #1 was slightly a bit larger than .0015 but not .002, #2-8 were all .0015

Then measured main and connecting rod journals with a micrometer, making an X with instrument placement.

All looks good within the service manual limits

Connecting rods are all numbered #3418645
Pistons # 1266 with a 20 on the top of each piston
- So this means the pistons are all .020 large than STD bore of 3.910?
- Thus means that all my cylinder bores are already .030 over?
I do not have a bore dial gauge (yet), but did use my Starrett caliper and they all measure 99.62 mm (or within a .02" deviation) = 3.922"

Therefore would I be able to reuse these pistons with a "stock" rebuild kit or am I looking at oversize or a trip to a machine shop?
 
No it means the block is .020 over. The block is what is bored to the number. The pistons are always small to achieve the required clearance.
 
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