318 LA Timing

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I have a 1967 barracuda with a 318 LA block and I feel that my timing is off and was wanting some help. I have set the timing chain up dot to dot with the crank at 12 and the cam at 6 o'clock positions with the distributor pointing at number 1 cylinder. The car has fire, compression and fuel but will not start. I read that on some of the older LA blocks that once the timing marks were set the crank has to be turned 360 degrees then the distributor dropped in. I have done this, and it cranks and runs but very rough. other than that, it will not run. any help would be appreciated and tested. I am at a loss at this point.
 
If I am understanding you correctly. Your distributor is 180 out not 360 degrees out and all that if you oil pump drive gear is in the correct position. Did that get removed?
Did you do just a gears and chain or a camshaft and lifters too.
Syleng1
 
after I had set the initial timing crank at 12 and cam at 6 the rotor was pointing at #1. at this point I had a crank no start condition. I had found a video that said that the current setting was for #6 and that the distributor was 180 out. I did not move the oil pump gear just turned the rotor 180 and it fired up, but it is very rough.
 
If the cam has been increased in duration/overlap over stock, it can have a rough idle. What are the cam specs?
 
first, check make sure balancer ant slipped and top dead center is true!, 2nd check timing chain gears are marked correct, theres a bunch of timing chains out there thats marked wrong! friend had a new chain on a chevy last week that was marked a 1/4 turn of the crank off! if it runs 180 off but ruff it probably ant 180 out, maybe a tooth off!! cant be 360 out, thats a full circle!
 
To set your distributor up:

1. It needs to have the rotor pointing to the #1 spark plug terminal at TDC.
2. You have to be on the compression stroke. Pull the #1 plug and rotate the engine by hand. It will push air out as you near TDC on the marker.
3. Check step 1 above.

It is easy when you are rebuilding an engine to check true TDC and the centerline of your cam. It is a lot of work to check them once it is together.
 
Here is info straight from the Factory Service Manual:
Just click on the links.
 

Attachments

  • TIMING MARKS ALIGNMENT LA ENGINE.pdf
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  • 318-340-DISTRIBUTOR-DRIVE-GEAR-ALIGNMENT (1).pdf
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Last edited:
1..There is no such thing as 360 out.
2.. An engine WILL NOT fire or run 180 out. It WILL backfire violently up through the carb sometimes.
3....The easiest way to set up a cam is dot to dot, AKA cam dot "down" and engine dot 'up." You really should degree the cam. Now, with that setting, if you do not rotate the engine, it is ready to fire on no.6. In order to set the dist in on no1, rotate the crank ONE turn. Now the dots will both be up
4...As said above you must be on the compression stroke. There are only two ways to tell. IF you have the rocker covers still off, you can bring up the marks to TDC, and look at the no1 and no6 valves, One set will be partly open, and the other set will be closed. That is the cylinder that is ready to fire.

Usually, I use the "finger in no1 hole" method. Bump or wrench the engine until you start to feel compression AND THEN STOP. Now carefully bring up the marks NOT TO TDC, but rather, "where you want" initial timing, AKA 8-10 BTC or whatever. Set in the dist so the rotor is pointing "just coming to" the no. 1 contact in the tower. Now rotate the dist CW to retard the dist. If you have points, slowly rotate it CCW (advanced) until the points just break open. If you have breakerless, bring it slowly around until the reluctor and pickup are aligned. Not install the cap, snug down the clamp so you can still move it, and STAR IT UP.
 
to clarify I didn't say it was 360 out, I mentioned a video that said that you set the timing up and turn the crank 360 and it puts the cam at 180. the crank turns two times per the cams one time.
 
1..There is no such thing as 360 out.
2.. An engine WILL NOT fire or run 180 out. It WILL backfire violently up through the carb sometimes.
3....The easiest way to set up a cam is dot to dot, AKA cam dot "down" and engine dot 'up." You really should degree the cam. Now, with that setting, if you do not rotate the engine, it is ready to fire on no.6. In order to set the dist in on no1, rotate the crank ONE turn. Now the dots will both be up
4...As said above you must be on the compression stroke. There are only two ways to tell. IF you have the rocker covers still off, you can bring up the marks to TDC, and look at the no1 and no6 valves, One set will be partly open, and the other set will be closed. That is the cylinder that is ready to fire.

Usually, I use the "finger in no1 hole" method. Bump or wrench the engine until you start to feel compression AND THEN STOP. Now carefully bring up the marks NOT TO TDC, but rather, "where you want" initial timing, AKA 8-10 BTC or whatever. Set in the dist so the rotor is pointing "just coming to" the no. 1 contact in the tower. Now rotate the dist CW to retard the dist. If you have points, slowly rotate it CCW (advanced) until the points just break open. If you have breakerless, bring it slowly around until the reluctor and pickup are aligned. Not install the cap, snug down the clamp so you can still move it, and STAR IT UP.
Awesome! I will run this down.
 
I don no...in my experience ya drop the distributor in, it either fires or it pops through the carb and carries on, at that point I flip it 180 and it fires...its sorta go or no go really...
 
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