318 missing and stalling once warmed up and at cruise

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My buddy had a 360 (in his '65 A100 truck) that ran well until it warmed up (15-20 minutes). After lots of investigating I discovered the harness to the Electronic Ignition module had been pinched/smashed when the engine was installed (by the previous owner). I made/installed an overlay harness, to the module, and the problem was gone.

DSCN7092-John's A100.jpg
 
DartGTDan said:
My buddy had a 360 (in his '65 A100 truck) that ran well until it warmed up (15-20 minutes). After lots of investigating I discovered the harness to the Electronic Ignition module had been pinched/smashed when the engine was installed (by the previous owner). I made/installed an overlay harness, to the module, and the problem was gone.

View attachment 1716003528
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Okay... Thanks for that, I will check it, however, seems strange that after approx 10k miles and coincidentally after the carb got refreshed that the problem surfaced... See how we go!
 
Which MSD coil did you buy? Is it supposed to be used with a ballast resistor? Some are not.
 
DartGTDan said:
My buddy had a 360 (in his '65 A100 truck) that ran well until it warmed up (15-20 minutes). After lots of investigating I discovered the harness to the Electronic Ignition module had been pinched/smashed when the engine was installed (by the previous owner). I made/installed an overlay harness, to the module, and the problem was gone.

View attachment 1716003528
Click to expand...
Very cool truck!
 
TT5.9mag said:
Which MSD coil did you buy? Is it supposed to be used with a ballast resistor? Some are not.
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MSD Blaster 2, came with a Ballast resistor, but I didn't bother replacing the existing one and the guys I bought from said nothing about deleting a resistor for that coil...
 
[1] Pretty sure the Blaster 2 requires a 0.8 ohm bal res. Stock is 0.5 ohm. However, I doubt this is the problem, though possible.
[2] Vac adv. Is it connected? If yes: every time it operates, it flexes the p/up wires & eventually they break. This could explain why it fires up ok after stalling: wires have moved & contact has been restored. To test: disconnect 2 pin socket; measure resistance while wiggling wires; should be 100-400 ohms.
[3] Whistle; while it is whistling, dribble some engine oil onto the t/shaft & see it the noise changes. To confirm where the air leak is.
[4] I would p*ss off the Holley & fit a Edel 625 AFB or AVS2.
 
Bewy said:
[1] Pretty sure the Blaster 2 requires a 0.8 ohm bal res. Stock is 0.5 ohm. However, I doubt this is the problem, though possible.
[2] Vac adv. Is it connected? If yes: every time it operates, it flexes the p/up wires & eventually they break. This could explain why it fires up ok after stalling: wires have moved & contact has been restored. To test: disconnect 2 pin socket; measure resistance while wiggling wires; should be 100-400 ohms.
[3] Whistle; while it is whistling, dribble some engine oil onto the t/shaft & see it the noise changes. To confirm where the air leak is.
[4] I would p*ss off the Holley & fit a Edel 625 AFB or AVS2.
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Hey Bewy, thanks for your input... Vac adv is connected and I shall check that out. I will also test the throttle shaft with some oil (so far I have only tried spraying the shaft with car cleaner, which only very slightly lowers the idle when doing so, and I have tested everywhere else on the carb, with no effect)
You're not the first one to suggest that I should go Eddy, and that was going to be my initial plan... What's your thoughts though , if I was to stroke my engine in near future to a 390, keeping the iron heads?
 
If you use a single plane intake man, I would use the 625. If dual plane, then a 750 AFB or 800 AVS.
 
Jason Maitland said:
MSD Blaster 2, came with a Ballast resistor, but I didn't bother replacing the existing one and the guys I bought from said nothing about deleting a resistor for that coil...
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Like bewy said above, I doubt it’s the problem, but it might be worth throwing the correct one on for a test though. That coil needs a .8 ohm resistor according to MSD.
 
Did you adjust idle mixture after rebuild, normally they do a base setting after rebuild. Did you overtighten the carb nuts? Loose it and check if the carb rocks on the intake, it should feel solid! Are all vacuum fittings closed and proper sealed? Check vacuum leaks with a water spray gun or carb/brake cleaner ( fire danger )
 
Jason Maitland said:
Hey Bewy, thanks for your input... Vac adv is connected and I shall check that out. I will also test the throttle shaft with some oil (so far I have only tried spraying the shaft with car cleaner, which only very slightly lowers the idle when doing so, and I have tested everywhere else on the carb, with no effect)
You're not the first one to suggest that I should go Eddy, and that was going to be my initial plan... What's your thoughts though , if I was to stroke my engine in near future to a 390, keeping the iron heads?
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Interestingly I just pulled the plugs and no 8 looked
plymouth4onthefloor said:
Did you adjust idle mixture after rebuild, normally they do a base setting after rebuild. Did you overtighten the carb nuts? Loose it and check if the carb rocks on the intake, it should feel solid! Are all vacuum fittings closed and proper sealed? Check vacuum leaks with a water spray gun or carb/brake cleaner ( fire danger )
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Thanks, I've already checked all of the above...
 
to detect whistling noises i use a stethoscope like a hazet 2151 and remove the front part. You can listen just with the hose. High noises are hard to locate without aid.
 
Bewy said:
Jason,
Do you have a genuine LHD Dart or is it a VF/VG Valiant coupe?
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Hey Bewy... I just saw you are local! Here is the Ad to the Dart I bought -
[SOLD] - 1968 Dodge Dart GT
Perhaps you could send me your number and I could reach out direct, if you're interested as opposed to messaging etc :) (if appropriate) ...I'm gonna go out now and fire her up to test the oil on t/shaft you suggested...
 
Looks nice & sounds nice! I will PM my number, happy to talk. I had a VG coupe, with a 383 block/440 crank.
 
Tried to PM you, says I have 15 conversations [ the limit] . Do not know how to get rid of them. I am in Sydney. PM me your mobile, I will ring you. Cheers.
 
Update...

WHISTLING NOISE - I just happened to bump into an expert at the motor parts store earlier, who had a good look/listen at my Carb and said the whistling noise is literally coming from the carb internals itself, just normally sucking it's air, and it's perfectly normal... I'm curious to know what others on this forum think about that? I'm still skeptical myself, as I've never heard a carb have a "normal" whistling type noise at idle/high vac, but I'm no expert...
The original issue I posted here actually returned with a vengeance today, after disappearing/not happening at all yesterday. So, I decided I would high tail it to the parts store and maybe try changing out the leads, as when I grabbed the coil lead I got an almighty zap!... Anyways, long story short, after swapping out the coil lead, and just for the fun of it, the ballast resistor, the issues seems to have gone/hibernating again... So, lets see what the nexrt few days of testing brings, especially Wednesday as I will attempt a 80km round trip via freeway driving!
On another note, I have noticed my coil is getting exceptionally hot, so tomorrow I will try and modify the mounting bracket on the intake manifold, so that the coil sits vertically VS horizontally, and perhaps incorporate a thermal "break" to alleviate as much heat transmission as possible!
Another issue I have realised is that when declining, or on level ground, if I brake suddenly/hard enough I can make the vehicle stall. However, this seems not to be the case if climbing... I checked float levels and they seem spot on... Any thoughts? thanks again, and will update as we go!
 
Jason Maitland said:
Update...

WHISTLING NOISE - I just happened to bump into an expert at the motor parts store earlier, who had a good look/listen at my Carb and said the whistling noise is literally coming from the carb internals itself, just normally sucking it's air, and it's perfectly normal... I'm curious to know what others on this forum think about that? I'm still skeptical myself, as I've never heard a carb have a "normal" whistling type noise at idle/high vac, but I'm no expert...
The original issue I posted here actually returned with a vengeance today, after disappearing/not happening at all yesterday. So, I decided I would high tail it to the parts store and maybe try changing out the leads, as when I grabbed the coil lead I got an almighty zap!... Anyways, long story short, after swapping out the coil lead, and just for the fun of it, the ballast resistor, the issues seems to have gone/hibernating again... So, lets see what the nexrt few days of testing brings, especially Wednesday as I will attempt a 80km round trip via freeway driving!
On another note, I have noticed my coil is getting exceptionally hot, so tomorrow I will try and modify the mounting bracket on the intake manifold, so that the coil sits vertically VS horizontally, and perhaps incorporate a thermal "break" to alleviate as much heat transmission as possible!
Another issue I have realised is that when declining, or on level ground, if I brake suddenly/hard enough I can make the vehicle stall. However, this seems not to be the case if climbing... I checked float levels and they seem spot on... Any thoughts? thanks again, and will update as we go!
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Hello! Have YOU Personally, Chased the ENTIRE fuel system? Drained tank? Blew lines w/ air? Ect?
 
Ironracer said:
Well, I didn't re- read the entire thread. Was it determined it was spark, timing, a carb issue, or....?
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Undetermined at this stage... Latest is that I swapped out the resistor and coil lead and issue has disappeared for now....but, this also happened a few days ago, only for it to reappear, and today I tested braking suddenly, on incline, decline and flat ground. I can get it to stall on decline, flat ground but not incline... Brakes are non-assist for the record...
 
Jason Maitland said:
Undetermined at this stage... Latest is that I swapped out the resistor and coil lead and issue has disappeared for now....but, this also happened a few days ago, only for it to reappear, and today I tested braking suddenly, on incline, decline and flat ground. I can get it to stall on decline, flat ground but not incline... Brakes are non-assist for the record...
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I'm about to change the Power disks into Manual in my Duster... I like to FEEL my brake pedal... I had a 63 Dart Gt 440, /6, couldn't get her to stay runnin' after sitting 7 years at Grandpa and Grandma's... but I did!! You could Blow through the front to the back, sounded like a bong... pulled the tank , cleaned, ect.... I ended up driving from Tampa to Orlando and back with the gas can in the back seat in the long piece of fuel line coming through the firewall into the cabin we were sitting in. My brother that was with me had cystic fibrosis and I was just pretty kind of much crazy at the time so we didn't really give too much of a **** if we crashed an got on fire.. point I'm trying to make is the rubber line between the tank and the metal hard line I did not check because I was a young *** kid I also did not check mowing through the sending unit the other way towards the carburetor I don't know if this applies in your situation
 
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