318 or 360? That is my question...

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As far as a 318 or a 360, there will be a lot of debate. Bigger is better, I say. The swap is easy. My '92 360 magnum block bolted right up to my '73 318 mounts in my 73 Dart. No issues at all as both are small blocks.
 
I'm going to grab a copy of that book... sounds like it’s worth its weight in gold.

I think what I'm going to do is find a running 318 or 360 that I can drop in for now since it IS my daily driver and I'd rather not spend the money on a beater.. Then I can really take my time rebuilding MY 318 from pan to carb the way I'd like to and not worry about rushing to finish. I like the idea of doing everything myself with the exception of a good machine shop.

I get the feeling that the shop that did the bearings (TWICE) wasn't really experienced in diagnosing with Mopars or at all for that matter. I don’t want to do the top end when there may, in fact, be recurrent bottom end trouble as well.

I appreciate all the feedback! Progress and pics will be posted! (I'll probably have more questions as well)
 
Really! $500 for a junkyard Magnum engine? Really!?!?!
That would make a trip into Canada worth the fuel if I could purchase a few for resale.

I could probably find one for about $700 in Abilene as long as I pulled it from the vehicle myself. $500 though...eh...might be missing some stuff...cash talks though.

That being said, the flex plate and torque converter would have to be matched up and you'd need the correct engine mounts. The oil pan is easy-plain jane $50 360 LA pan from Jeg's or Summit worked great in mine.
 
What do you want to do with it other than daily driver. If its daily driver, stick with the 318 for economy. They are both reliable once built properly. If you want the power bigger is always better. I learned a stock 360 is way torqier than a 318. But mileage will suffer. I used to run a hot 318 in a duster that ran 13s, I love 318s, but power wise 360s built the same far outperform. My built 318 still got great mileage. It required a lot more rpm and cam to get it done though. Good luck with the build.
 
::UPDATE::

Hey Guys,
As an update, I’m purchasing a 74’/75’ 360 from a gentleman out of Troy, NY complete from carb to pan (minus a starter) for $450 (newer crank, rods, pistons, valves, springs, 288/454 cam, performer intake and 600 Holley). As far as what I’ll need for the swap, I want to make sure I don’t miss anything before I pull the old motor, does this look accurate?
1.) Order an oil pan since it was out of a truck.
2.) Throw new mounts in just to be safe.. (stock ones from the parts store should work? I’ve read different things)
3.) He says he’s 99% sure it is internally balanced. Is there any possible way to know for sure and should I still order an externally balanced flexplate? What type is recommended? (3 Speed Automatic trans)

Anything else I’ll need to do? Thanks for the help guys.
 
If it's internally balanced the harmonic damper will be neutrally balanced (no offset weight). Also when you have the pan off, it will likely have Mallory metal slugs in the counter weights if its a stock crank. If its an aftermarket crank such as an Eagle it wouldn't require Mallory metal to internally balance.
 
x2 Quite a find.

If you're tossing the truck pan, plan on tossing the oil pump pickup tube, too. Get one that is compatible with the pan you get.
 
The car probably had a 904, the truck a 727. The 904 is lighter, the 727 is stronger. How much stronger, I can't say. I haven't messed with a 360/904 combo, yet. About 5 years ago, the SS/A record fell to a Hemi/904 combo. I'd feel comfortable with a 904 and 350 rwhp.
 
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