318 power

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iggys68dart

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need opions on rebuilding 318 for a little extra horses on the cheap its still a daily driver 68 dart but would like it a bit more peppy
 
What is it like now? Stock 2 bbl?

You could get a normal edelbrock performer, a little more aggressive cam, 4 bbl and dual exhaust. That should give it a nice bump in power and improve overall drivability.
 
What is it like now? Stock 2 bbl?

You could get a normal edelbrock performer, a little more aggressive cam, 4 bbl and dual exhaust. That should give it a nice bump in power and improve overall drivability.

Exactly!

Now I wonder, do yo plan to change your gear ratio or converter?

IF not, then I'll assume the gear rtio is a normal Hwy. gear @ 2.76 and you have stock small tires.

Look to get a 9-1 ratio with new pistons, Edelbrock's Performer intake and carb are excellent street parts. Couple it with a Comp Cams XE series cam. A XE262 would work well in this case.
For headers, they all stink except the expensive Doug's or the more pricey TTI's into a 2-1/4 exhaust.

You can get the Edelbrock parts used here , swap meets or possily E-bay/Craigs list. The exhaust you can find very cheap @ Summit or Jegs. They have there own offerings. I used a Jegs 2-1/2 for my Duster @ a tip over $200 and it went from headers to the bumper. Tips from Headman can be as cheap as $20 each. You'll need to trim the exhaust pipes ti fit equal at the bumper and then just cap them with the tips.

E-Z, P-Z, nice and easy.
 
i have the edelbrock and 4 barrel but not sure if back barrels open up i am a good parts changer but not a mechanic and see it has a vaccum line hooked up but i never hear it kick in also have 2 and ahalf duals already
 
The Carter/Edel. carbs are mech. secondary in operation. They open up no matter what.

The vacuum line should be for the distibutor's vacuum advance line.
 
Rumblefish is right on the money.

Just to let you guys know. I let a chevy guy drive my 318 powered dart today. I was laughing my *** off in the passenger seat the entire time. He was taking it up to 6K was screaming holy &^%$ the entire time. He couldn't believe it was a crappy little 318.
It goes to show you what 9-1 compression, decent heads, good cam, intake, headers, 3K convertor, gears and a properly tuned carb will do. It was a hoot.
 
Whats the budget?

I'll give you several methods.

Cheap= 302 heads and home porting,maybe a valve size bump,cam in the .460ish range.Cast iron 4 bbl intake.Log manifolds and duals

Mid range=magnum heads redrilled for la intake.Air gap intake,better than .480 lift,Header like dougs etc.
 
on the carb being mechanical it would seem to me if i pushed the linkage far enough i would see the rear barrels open forgive me if this is a stupid question but i think the only stupid ones are not asked .if you dont know. and thank you for all other info i will try to start gatherin parts for rebuild
 
carter are not mechanical...the throttle blades do open with the linkage..but the air valve does not open until the flow is high enough...so the carters are more like a vacum carb.

as far as the 318....I would look at the summit brand cam...lifter...timing gears...intake manifold and eddy 600 carb...i would change to electronic ignition..and a good flowing dual exhaust ...with header being an option...
 
look on the air horn...for List number of holley..

like 0-1850 or 3310-xx
 
You will know when those 2 extra barrels kick in. Listen to the engine when you stomp on the gas. The best way I could hear mine open up was when driving up a long fairly steep hill. At about 40 mph, stomp on the gas. It will kick down into second, but once it gets into third play with the throttle a bit. You will hear the difference in the tone of the engine when the secondaries open and close. I'm sure you could hear the same effect on a straight stretch of road, but going up a hill doesn't make you look like your speeding or trying to be a hot rod (lower profile).
 
carter are not mechanical...the throttle blades do open with the linkage..but the air valve does not open until the flow is high enough...so the carters are more like a vacum carb.

OH MAN! Look at the Carter carb. From underneath, Operate the throttle arm, watch as both primary and secondary sides open when you operate the arm from rest to W.O.T position.

This is called mechanical operation at it fullest. The carb is a mechanicl secondary carb. Period.

Operation of the secondaries are velocity actioned via the air velocity door that is counter weighted on the AFB's, spring loaded on the AVS and T-Q's.


as far as the 318....I would look at the summit brand cam...lifter...timing gears...intake manifold and eddy 600 carb...i would change to electronic ignition..and a good flowing dual exhaust ...with header being an option...

A big thumbs up there. Cheaper brand spanking new parts by Summit.


i got you on the sound but evidently i am missing kickdown cable so no 4 barrel sound

The MoPars use a rod on the tranny for pressure to the internals of the tranny to kick it down, not for 4bbl. operation. If you do not have a kickdown rod on the car, STOP DRIVING THE CAR NOW BEFORE YOU DESTROY THE TRANNY!

The tranny needs this line pressure to operate normally or with performance. Failure to do so will destroy the trans in a few short miles.

Been there done that in less than 20 miles.

Lokar or other such companies have a cable for this issue of missing or custom linkage parts, There easy to instal and set up. Very adjustable.

IF you have an OE carb, beaware that there is no provision for this cable and you'll have to fab up a bracket for there use.
(Yes, I know you have a Holley, just making mention to the other guy that's reading this inthe future.)

Heres a picture of what I did to make it work, nice and easy.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showpost.php?p=91931&postcount=81
 
i guess i will need a new trans as it is my only car right now and i have drove at least 35 miles a day to work for 3 weeks not hard on car but my options are limited thanks for warning
 
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