318 problems

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Unprovoked

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Chicago, IL
Hi,

I own a '73 duster with a 318, but I am having some issues with it. I was driving down the highway when I heard a loud bang and my engine shut off. I pulled over to the shoulder and turned it over, it started right up. I got off highway and looked under the hood, but I didn't see anything wrong so I drove side streets home. Every few miles my engine would start to bog down and pumping the gas was the only thing that kept it from shutting off. I got home and let it idle in the garage but it just shuts off after a few minutes.

Does anyone have any ideas? I'm not the best guy at troubleshooting...
 
you might want to start by checking the fuel pump...fuel filter...also see if gas is pouring into the carb while running..
 
ignition box getting ready to fail . any stuff running out the back of the box . mine did it he same way for about 10 miles then we coasted of to the side of the rd an waited for tow truck . put new from napa in 35$ an away we went
 
ignition box getting ready to fail . any stuff running out the back of the box . mine did it he same way for about 10 miles then we coasted of to the side of the rd an waited for tow truck . put new from napa in 35$ an away we went

There is a lesson to be learned. I never leave home without a spare ballast resistor and ignition box. Back in the 80's, while cruising I parked in a lot with other cars. Went to leave and it wouldn't fire up. A fellow Mopar came over and loaned me a ballast resistor and it fired right up. Nothing more embarrassing than having people eyeballing your car; black 70 duster, rear end narrowed and tubbed with 15" wide Cragars and circle track slicks tucked into the wheel wells and it won't start.
 
I never leave home without a spare ballast resistor and ignition box. Back in the 80's, while cruising I parked in a lot with other cars. Went to leave and it wouldn't fire up. A fellow Mopar came over and loaned me a ballast resistor and it fired right up

Thats exactely the reason i run nothing but msd systems in my cars...
 
Probably ignition like others said. If you have never changed the pick up filter in the tank put that on the list of things to do.
 
Check your timing. I agree with edbux, I ALWAYS carried a spare ignition box and ballast with me before I switched to msd.. Also after that bang(backfire) if you are running a holley carb you might have a blown power valve now. That would explain some of the rough running...

Bob
 
Either the box or the coil. If you need a box, get a "Standard Ignition" brand LX-101. It's a better box that the M.P. Orange box and costs less.
 
Thanks alot guys, I'm going to check out my ignition box, hopefully tomorrow. I do have a ballast resistor in my tool box, so I'll knock that out too. I run an edelbrock carb, but would the back fire still indicate a blown valve or something in my carb?
 
Edelbrocks don't have a power valve. I'm not a carb expert but I the same function is handled by the metering rods on an Edelbrock carb.
 
So do I have to replace rods? To switch to MSD, do I just change out the ignition box or is it a little more involved than that?
 
Could have been the timing chain jumping and the car backfired out the pipe(s) too. Check the timing... If you can;t see the timing mark on the balancer, I'd put money that's it.
 
Thanks for the welcome. This is my first post, but with as many problems as I get with my Duster and as much technical knowledge as you guys seem to have, I'm sure it won't be my last.
 
Changed my ballast resistor, ignition box, and fuel filter and the problem still persists. I have to run a really rich to keep it running. It hasn't backfired since the first time though. I guess the next step is to change the ignition coil.
 
go buy a cylinder pressure gage. (compression testor) It's about the same money or less than the coil, and might save aditional expenses. It does not sound like ignition.
 
I agree with Moper, I believe it's in the timing. How many miles are on the engine at best guess? Sounds like the chain and gears are wore out and has alot of slop in it causing the timing to be retarded, late timing will do the same thing.
 
I bought the car 2 and a half years ago and I was told the engine was rebuilt 3 years prior. Of course, two months after I bought it, I had a head gasket blow. I put 5000 miles on it, so at best guess I'd say 30,000... but really I have no idea. I'm going to go get a loaner compression tester from Autozone, but I've never done one of these, so is there something particular I need to look for?
 
nope. Just look for what the gage reads after 5 revolutions or so. Also, remove all the spark plugs and wire open the throttle for the test. Do all 8, and post the results.
 
I finally found the time to conduct a compression test and all of my cylinders were between 130 and 140. That's normal right? So should I still suspect an ignition problem?
 
I finally found the time to conduct a compression test and all of my cylinders were between 130 and 140. That's normal right? So should I still suspect an ignition problem?
 
yeah thats comression test is good, you want the engien warm befor you do the test i was told thet it lets the stuff epand. and rock the piston arount with the crank to get a good read on the rings and a good seal.you sead you herd a loud bang befor it shut of like a back fire out the carb? i hade this pro befor it was mt timing to advanced? some one on hear would know better. AND FOR THE EDELJUNK!:angry7: FIX IT WITH A HOLLEY:thumblef:
 
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