LA rollers are a LOT closer to spec than earlier engines.
I recall a FABO member calculating his out at 9.18:1.
318 question
- Thread starter Hoyt1234
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LA rollers are a LOT closer to spec than earlier engines.
I recall a FABO member calculating his out at 9.18:1.
Dang George, get rid of that air filter.
It's out of the vehicle and torn down, just really looking to see if better parts than stock that could get me a pretty snorty street motor that I can do myself.. thanks for info
This is a solid recipe for a teen.
Find that people who have had problems with the air filters are the ones running the more aggressive cams, where both intake and exhaust valves are open at idle.
One little hiccup and the timing being off just a tad, and well you know.....
Picked up a couple 10" steel plate air filters for future projects.
Like these, shows off the 4 barrel carb, intake, and engine.
☆☆☆☆☆
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Well as to the rev-limiter;
If you build a nice hi-pressure engine like I did (has been to 195psi and more)
and drive it on the street, with street tires, then
it's really hard to not spin the tires.
I mean with the line-loc set, my 367 will almost idle with the tires spinning. If I then nail it, the Rs will flash to the rev limiter almost faster than I can lift. Now; my engine goes to 7200 and beyond, without pumping up the lifters or loosing rod bearings, so I installed an adjustable rev-limiter to limit the revs, cuz the limiter is faster than is my big right foot.
Plus, I use the rev-limiter, which has an adjustable shift light on it, as a cruise control, at 65mph, cuz if I get a ticket, it won't be for speeding.
In Manitoba Canada, we get "demerits" when we get tickets. The more demerits you have, the more it costs to continue your driving privileges, and your car insurance goes up. But, every year that you drive without getting a ticket, you get a merit, to a maximum of five, and a reduction in the cost of your Driver's license. Every merit is worth two demerits.
So then, Notta chance am I gonna waste my merits on speeding tickets, which, depending on the speed, costs a minimum of 1 merit, or two demerits if you don't have merits. But one wreckless-driving ticket, can cost a minimum of 2 merits to as many as 5 merits, depending on thechit you got caught doing. Since I drive thechit out of my car, I need the merit-cushion, to keep the cost of my driving privilages down. The rev-limiter is a key player.
In over 20 years of driving this car, it has never received even one speeding ticket.
Don't ask me how many wreckless-driving tickets I received behind that steering wheel; or imprudent-driving tickets; or excessive spinning of tires, etc. Since I still have a Driving License, I attribute that to being made possible by not speeding.
Sometimes I even use the rev-limiter in the city, set at 4100 which is 30mph in First gear. Well it will be when the tires stop spinning....... lol.
Now, it's true that my car has a Manual trans..... in the summer..... But there were many years in the beginning, that in winter, it had a 318 auto. The rev-limiter was instrumental in keeping it alive, as well..... cuz you know, when yur used to 7200, then 5000 with a 2800 stall, on spinning snowtires, comes up pretty quick.
The thing is, I bought a nice, standard diameter, Autometer, 270*, 8000rpm tach, that has both an adjustable rev-limiter, and a shift-light that comes on about 200 rpm before the limiter. Very nice for street-duty. I installed it on a bracket that I fabbed up, that slides left/right on the dashpad. So then, I can bring it over to my line-of-sight when I'm misbehaving, AND then, slide it back to the right, out of the way, when not.
Oh yeah, it also has an adjustable needle on it, that I set to 5200, which is near to the powerpeak of my 230* cammed 367. But other people don't know that; so when they see that modest shift rpm, they rarely fail to inform me that I shouldda built a 340 cuz everybody knows 340s were greased lightning..... and reved to the moon; which, having had five 340s since 1970, I can safely say, is just not true. All of mine, had crappy factory 114* cams, tiny carbs, and a junk valve train that started going away at 5500 or sometimes less, which was not that big a deal, cuz the factory cam was done anyway. And, in factory tune, they were just mid-14 second cars, which really is nothing to brag about.
and No, I'm not angry any more. Since the bore in my 367 is ~4.044, I just starting calling it a stroked-340, and that was the end of it.
The adjustable rev-limiter is a fine tool, and notta chance would I leave home without it. Besides, it came with the tach...... and I needed a tach to map out my ignition timings.
to Rumble;
As to spinning tires;
Does anybody build a 400 hp engine to idle around with?
There is absolutely no street engined A-body that needs to have 400hp.
A better street engine, would have the footpounds of a 400hp engine, but 300hp is already excessive. In fact; a well thought-out, hi-torque engine with just 250hp could be a satisfactory set-up.
so gimmee a break.
I built 400hp cause my car was built to effing smoke the tires in two or even three gears, which is also why it rides on the BFG/Cobras..
Had I wanted a mundane grocery-getter, I wouldda built a more appropriate engine.
Which s exactly why I made the recommendation that I did .....
and besides all that, did you even read Post #1?
If you build a nice hi-pressure engine like I did (has been to 195psi and more)
and drive it on the street, with street tires, then
it's really hard to not spin the tires.
I mean with the line-loc set, my 367 will almost idle with the tires spinning. If I then nail it, the Rs will flash to the rev limiter almost faster than I can lift. Now; my engine goes to 7200 and beyond, without pumping up the lifters or loosing rod bearings, so I installed an adjustable rev-limiter to limit the revs, cuz the limiter is faster than is my big right foot.
Plus, I use the rev-limiter, which has an adjustable shift light on it, as a cruise control, at 65mph, cuz if I get a ticket, it won't be for speeding.
In Manitoba Canada, we get "demerits" when we get tickets. The more demerits you have, the more it costs to continue your driving privileges, and your car insurance goes up. But, every year that you drive without getting a ticket, you get a merit, to a maximum of five, and a reduction in the cost of your Driver's license. Every merit is worth two demerits.
So then, Notta chance am I gonna waste my merits on speeding tickets, which, depending on the speed, costs a minimum of 1 merit, or two demerits if you don't have merits. But one wreckless-driving ticket, can cost a minimum of 2 merits to as many as 5 merits, depending on thechit you got caught doing. Since I drive thechit out of my car, I need the merit-cushion, to keep the cost of my driving privilages down. The rev-limiter is a key player.
In over 20 years of driving this car, it has never received even one speeding ticket.
Don't ask me how many wreckless-driving tickets I received behind that steering wheel; or imprudent-driving tickets; or excessive spinning of tires, etc. Since I still have a Driving License, I attribute that to being made possible by not speeding.
Sometimes I even use the rev-limiter in the city, set at 4100 which is 30mph in First gear. Well it will be when the tires stop spinning....... lol.
Now, it's true that my car has a Manual trans..... in the summer..... But there were many years in the beginning, that in winter, it had a 318 auto. The rev-limiter was instrumental in keeping it alive, as well..... cuz you know, when yur used to 7200, then 5000 with a 2800 stall, on spinning snowtires, comes up pretty quick.
The thing is, I bought a nice, standard diameter, Autometer, 270*, 8000rpm tach, that has both an adjustable rev-limiter, and a shift-light that comes on about 200 rpm before the limiter. Very nice for street-duty. I installed it on a bracket that I fabbed up, that slides left/right on the dashpad. So then, I can bring it over to my line-of-sight when I'm misbehaving, AND then, slide it back to the right, out of the way, when not.
Oh yeah, it also has an adjustable needle on it, that I set to 5200, which is near to the powerpeak of my 230* cammed 367. But other people don't know that; so when they see that modest shift rpm, they rarely fail to inform me that I shouldda built a 340 cuz everybody knows 340s were greased lightning..... and reved to the moon; which, having had five 340s since 1970, I can safely say, is just not true. All of mine, had crappy factory 114* cams, tiny carbs, and a junk valve train that started going away at 5500 or sometimes less, which was not that big a deal, cuz the factory cam was done anyway. And, in factory tune, they were just mid-14 second cars, which really is nothing to brag about.
and No, I'm not angry any more. Since the bore in my 367 is ~4.044, I just starting calling it a stroked-340, and that was the end of it.
The adjustable rev-limiter is a fine tool, and notta chance would I leave home without it. Besides, it came with the tach...... and I needed a tach to map out my ignition timings.
to Rumble;
As to spinning tires;
Does anybody build a 400 hp engine to idle around with?
There is absolutely no street engined A-body that needs to have 400hp.
A better street engine, would have the footpounds of a 400hp engine, but 300hp is already excessive. In fact; a well thought-out, hi-torque engine with just 250hp could be a satisfactory set-up.
so gimmee a break.
I built 400hp cause my car was built to effing smoke the tires in two or even three gears, which is also why it rides on the BFG/Cobras..
Had I wanted a mundane grocery-getter, I wouldda built a more appropriate engine.
Which s exactly why I made the recommendation that I did .....
and besides all that, did you even read Post #1?
Nothing elaborate........ what could be less elaborate than leaving a Magnum practically alone, except for un-handicapping it?
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What KB pistons are decent? Or just stock replacement that are good quality?
It’s the difference between a hero and a dud, Mileage and power verse a slug and crud mileage. Also, IF tail pipe emissions are an item needed to pass a test, it’s a big factor.
100% on the mark! Ya gotta know for sure.
Charlie Servedio has a YouTube channel where you should be able to pick up a few things on porting a 318 head. Having never ported one before, this maybe an expense worth paying for. It’s up to you and your wallet. I don’t believe the as cast head is up to task while using a small cam and I believe the above quote is accurate for sure. Some work should be done.
I agree with 273.
Same reply as above would fit this build.If he needs new pistons…. That’s what I’d roll with.
KB-167. A hyperutectic piston from Kieth Black. It’s a better piston. If you went with a stock replacement piston, from let’s say Badger or Federal Mougal, just due to the overbore there is an ever so slight increase in compression. You’ll need the specs of the piston to know where it’ll be end up.
Rat Bastid
Dunamis Metron
Im building my engine to be 500 HP on the street. The next one will be 600 HP on the street, both on pump gas.
Thank God you don’t make the laws otherwise we’d all be driving a Prius or some **** because that’s all the power NEED.
I damn sure don’t need you telling me what I need for the street. My wife and my mom both know better than to try that idiocy.
Just because you can handle more power doesn’t mean there are those of us capable of doing it.
If you can’t hook up a measly 400 HP on the street your chassis tuning is horrible or you run junk tires to impress yourself and the rest of the bubble gummers out there who think smoking the tires equals horsepower.
FACT: it doesn’t mean **** other than what I said above.
Sing it brother.
I am just amazed how he over and over again ha this thing about the inability of others not be able to control there right foot into spinning the tires as if there is no other choice BUT to spin the tires.
I was just saying this the other day to someone. I went to school with a guy pulling the wheels off the floor and needed the wheelie bars to keep things right in his ‘67 Ford Galaxy.
Yes! Regular asphalt- pulling the wheels off the ground and making prodigious use of the wheelie bars.
And AJ just proudly announced he just spins them.
WTH?!?!
I am just amazed how he over and over again ha this thing about the inability of others not be able to control there right foot into spinning the tires as if there is no other choice BUT to spin the tires.
I was just saying this the other day to someone. I went to school with a guy pulling the wheels off the floor and needed the wheelie bars to keep things right in his ‘67 Ford Galaxy.
Yes! Regular asphalt- pulling the wheels off the ground and making prodigious use of the wheelie bars.
And AJ just proudly announced he just spins them.
WTH?!?!
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
swap out them 302s for some stock magnum heads and cam it right i dont see 425+ HP being hard to do....DWB!
I don’t see it with a reasonable street cam.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
250 at 650 lift is reasonable ant it?? lol,..reasonable is subject to personable opinions...
(Whiny speech) Oooooooooooohhhhhh, I don’t know, ….
(Cheery bright idea tone) I think I gotta go with @RustyRatRod ’s go to cam.
.750 solid roller!
Whoooooo-PAH!!!!
BAMMMM BABY!
(Cheery bright idea tone) I think I gotta go with @RustyRatRod ’s go to cam.
.750 solid roller!
Whoooooo-PAH!!!!
BAMMMM BABY!
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
425 hp ant reasonable for a street car if we being real here...lol
All he knows how to do is seemingly give "advice" when in fact every bit of his "advice" ends up being bragging about his car. Nine times out of ten, it has very little to do with the point at hand.
Well, depends on point of view, personal experience and how well you get the power to the ground with how many forward gears.
4 sod better than 3, 6 sod manual better than a 3/4 sod manual. Followed by…..
A 425 hp 318 and a 425 hp 440 are two worldly animals apart.
Sooooo many ways to skin a cat…. And cook it.
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