318 rpm drops to 400 in gear WHY???

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Parts mismatches. Too small an engine for that 484 cam. If you have to idle it that high, you need a convertor. But, if you have to idle it that high, it's not making any torque anyway. Was the cam degreed? What is the cylinder pressures in it?
 
I think Crackedback has a good point that at 1200 rpm at idle the centrifugal advance is probably coming in and when you drop it in gear the rpm's go down so the centrifugal advance goes away and the timing drops. You can verify that by checking the timing with it in gear idling making sure to disconnect the vacuum advance. I doubt seriously that it would even start if the timing is truly 32 degrees before initial. Mine kicks back on the starter at 22 degrees before. It's probably more like 12 degrees initial and by the time it's idling at 1200 rpm it's advanced to 32 degrees. If this is the case you'll have to install a heavier spring on one side of the centrifugal advance to slow the centrifugal advance coming in. It shouldn't come in before 1500 rpm.

Also 8 INCHES of vacuum is decent for that cam in a 318. I say INCHES because vacuum is measured in inches, not lbs.

I should have caught that, inches is correct. Also, believe it or not, I have had a 340 set at 32 initial timing, and it started and ran fine. Not sure its a good idea to leave it there though.
 
I've got a similar issue with the 318 in my Duster. Having the same issue where it idles fine and then as soon as I put into Drive it stalls.. I have to re-look at the timing and vacuum levels which I havent done yet and also check for vacuum leaks as well... Damn frustrating...

I am curious what the specifics are on the type of stall in these cases? Just dies, floods, stutters and dies? Is the engine easy to restart? Would be worth measuring vaccum and timing at idle and the changes when put in gear. Also worth asking what RPM the engines can survive being idled down to in park or neutral?

I don't have a lot of experience with different converters and have never really thought about the load speed of a converter vs. the stall speed, so anyone feel free to educate me on the following... Is there a rule of thumb on load rpm (or "drag rpm") for a converter based on flash stall speed? I would think that if you can idle an engine down to 800rpm in neutral then most converters that stall at 2000+ should not cause them to die unless other fuel/timing/vaccum changes are affecting things. I had always thought that the higher stall converters were intended to let engines jump into the best power bands quicker and had not considered the issue of them dragging a big cam'd motor down below a reasonable idle speed.

As I said...I never had trouble with my similar 318 combo using a converter rated for 2000-2200 stall. The idle would drop some when put in gear but the engine never stalled. . Interesting issue.
 
The stall ratings on convertors are kind of like saying "it's blue" when you look at a blue car. Which blue can be unique to that specific car. In that respect, a convertor is so affected by the engine and the package, that in most cases, the stall will change from vehicle to vehicle unless they are compeltely identical cars. The brake stall is the speed the convertor lets the engine reach when floored and the output shaft is held still in 1st gear. This is typically lower than the flash stall. This is also what a lot of convertors advertised stalls are. The other is flash. Which is the same thing, max engine speed, but without the outputshaft held, and in high gear. Teh way to find it is cruise at lower speed/rpm than you think it is in drive (3rd gear). I use around 20-25mph in high. Then floor it. This is not easy as if you floor it in a typical auto, it downshifts and that will not read right. So give it enough throttle to bring the engine up i power but no downshift.

The part about low vacuum and that cam, vs idle rpm, is why i asked about cylinder pressures. Vacuum has nothing to do with how much power the engine is making at idle. Most performance engines can idle as low as 400rpm. But not well. I dont call anything over 900 idle, as for the most part, you are off the idle circuit in the carb by that point in the throttle opening.
 
distributor feeding mechanical advance in at idle, because its 1200rpm, and when it pulls into gear that mechanical disappears when idle speed drops. Possible?

Need to sort out the timing first before worrying about anything else. It will likely need at least 18* initial is my guess. Setting total timing is an absolute waste of time at this point.

484 cams need lots of convertor and initial timing. They aren't particularly friendly in smaller LA engines.

Vacuum leaks?
X2
i had the same problem i went to a heavier spring in the dist and it made a world of difference
 
Good old Holleys Gotta luv um.
Actually I hate them and hate tuning them lol

IDK as much as a lot of these guys do but might I suggest you pickup the Holley tuning DVD, it can be very helpful. Also your timing doesn't sound right to me either I'd start there, maybe have your buddy help you and set the timing with the car in gear at idle, see how that effects idle speed.
Also, if it comes down to getting a new cam as MP's quality has really fallen off these days, Comp Cams has a series for mopars called the "Purple Plus" cam, it's similar cam specs but with higher quality and some numbers are improved. just trying to give a lil advice, good luck.
 
Good old Holleys Gotta luv um.

My guess it's not a carb problem, it's an ignition timing issue.

Timing changes affects carb settings, carb setting rarely affect timing.

Most all the problems I run into when tuning idle that others have attempted are:
1. people set total timing and try to get it to run. Back-asswards approach on a street driven car.
2. set it to factory spec, like 5 BTDC when running big cams.
3. pull a number out of mid air and don't let the engine tell them what it wants for initial.

Holleys are not difficult. Ede's with large cams can be a lot of fun too!

The holley site has a pretty good set of videos available on line to watch regarding tuning. IMO, They don't stress the necessity for proper ignition timing enough in them.
 
It should not be idling at 1000rpms. You're not on the idle circuit any more. The cam is a bit too large unless the long block was blueprinted to get that compression. It's more than likely closer to 9:1 and the cam is too big. What are the cylinder pressure readings for it? Hot, all 8 plugs out, throttle wired wide open...
 
are you useing a double roller timing chain i have seen guys put the key in the wrong slot on the cam gear need to know that you put it in the right slot i know because i did it myself look at the marings on the gear to be sure you used the right mark
 
Hmmm, this makes sense on my problem- not hijacking, just adding.
Mallory only mech; 340, 10,2, purple.
It wont'd idle under 30 advance
So, the springs are too light, coming in too soon.
 
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