318 Street/Strip build?

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My question was more rhetorical than anything--I KNOW how to relocate them--I wanted to know why Wyrmrider thought it was worthy of a good luck statement.
 
txstang84 said:
My question was more rhetorical than anything--I KNOW how to relocate them--I wanted to know why Wyrmrider thought it was worthy of a good luck statement.
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Wyrmrider said:
Thanks for the link and reminder rumble/ ratrod
OP you can overpower that chassis with a stock 360
do the chassis first
if strip stock or 6 cylinder bars
if on the road the largest you can find
good luck on that 8 3/4 width/ spring perches almost easier to build a 9" Ford mustang or find something else that fits
thanks for being on board with the connectors- we bent more than one of those up
even with the 413 we had to keep a wide torque band with the stock big heavy three speed even more so than the TF we switched to
stock cam was too long so we used special Isky then Racer Brown
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To me, this makes sense except for the Ford 9 thought. IF you have the funds and your going big, then fine.

Chassis first? Good. Simple additions work and are cheap and easy.
Sub Frame Connectors
Thinner T-bars if you don't already have a /6 bars
Drag shocks
Better springs. In order, S/S springs, Cal Tracks, Asassin bars.
Then go to lightening the car and your fat and skinny wheels / tires.
 
rumblefish360 said:
To me, this makes sense except for the Ford 9 thought. IF you have the funds and your going big, then fine.
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That's why I asked...he mentioned having an 8 3/4 available...something about a bird in the hand being worth two in the bush.
 
txstang84 said:
That's why I asked...he mentioned having an 8 3/4 available...something about a bird in the hand being worth two in the bush.
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I don't remember him saying so but good you remembered and if he does, he is basically done, save high strength axles and what ever other upgrades to the rear he may deem.
 
rumblefish360 said:
I don't remember him saying so but good you remembered and if he does, he is basically done, save high strength axles and what ever other upgrades to the rear he may deem.
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You are correct...I inferred...

Jonnylightening said:
My goal is upgrade brakes to disc in front, 8.75 rear, my A230, 318 screamer-ish, sub frame connectors at least, beefier rear springs...etc
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Me either, man...I guess we should probably wait till the OP gets off work and actually has the chance to put his thoughts out on the keyboard
 
Jonnylightening said:
I have 1 currently out of a 68 wagon with 3 speed, possibly 2 more from 67 wagons, and 1 from a 75 d100. At the moment don't really have a budget .just getting ideas on tried and true combos.
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Your plan on the car is good and solid, the three speed manual is going to be like a two speed power glide though. It’s going to like more gear than you may want, depending on your intended usage. They do work pretty good for an out for a quick blast adrenaline hunt raise hell car if that’s what your looking for. An overdrive a833 is the same way, but the overdrive makes it more livable for regular usage. Supposedly, there was an a230 close ratio “challenger” three speed, reminded me of the red stripe 2nd and 3rd ratios, but I only know it as an internet rumor.
 
Let me start over. I was on my 15min break so I was rushing through the posts. Basically I want to ditch the bench seats and replace the fronts with lowback buckets. Remove the back seat and throw up a sheet of aluminum. Relocate my battery to the trunk along with a fuel cell. Ditch my 7.25 rear and replace that with an 8.75 which I DON'T have. I have a line on a few out of 68-70 B Bodies. I have did a swap before on my Aspen so I'm familiar with relocating the perches. I believe the B Body 8.75 (68-70)are roughly 3" longer so about 1.5" on each side. My first choice is one from an A Body but... Also I want to get a set of SS springs if possible. For the brakes I'd like to find a kit or piece one together to get discs up front. Drums are fine for me in the rear. As for the chassis id rather not go roll cage if possible if I can get away with connectors that would be a plus for me. As for trans I want to run my A230. I'd like to get the 833 but they're getting expensive and harder to come by. I'm not all sure on gearing, it won't see slot of highway but want something that will work with my engine combo. This brings me to the start of my thread. I'm wanting to see what everyone else is doing engine wise to make these little A Bodies a warrior. I'd like to compete with the fox body 5.0 and SB Chevy Camaros that everyone has and think they are the cats a$$.
 
IMG_20190209_175103794.jpg
 
well, I'll tell ya this much...take a look at how cheap it is to build any of the ones you mentioned...as long as the specimen isn't a clapped out POS, it doesn't take a whole helluva lot to make them formidable track vehicles. For as much hate as I've received being a Mustang guy first (look at my screename-that's my first car and one I still have), lots of chevy guys will buy a fox (much to the chagrin of folks like me) because it's cheap light and fits their favorite power plant handily...
 
Your going to get a lot of opinions here on this build. Get 68 block sonic tested, check it and your 75 d100 block for a steel crank. Odds are in your favor to have a block that can safely bore to 4.04 340 size. What’s your budget and what kind of fuel are you planning on running? I noticed you mentioned aluminum heads, sounds like we are going balls to the wall with this one!
 
If they’re in the budget, I def do the EQ CH318B heads.

Solid cam? Absolutely.

You’re going to want to scope out the early a body header situation, and cam accordingly.

The 3 speed will hinder your performance some, but they’re really not bad at all as far as driving around goes.
Just make sure the combo is built to have plenty of mid-range grunt.
I’m thinking for street duty....... 3.91’s.
 
Okay I re read your first post, pump gas, Iron heads. If you have the block and can go to 340 bore size, there is a set of 587 heads on here that would do anything you needed to for a good price. They would work very well on a 318 zero decked to 10:1 as well.
 
For chasing down fox and f bodies with a three speed, and not much highway driving, big solid cam, strip dominator or victor intake, 4.30 gears. I have ran 11.7:1 on the street before, but I don’t recommend more than 10.5 unless you budget in VP Octanium. As stated, finding headers will be an issue.
 
Warning!

Sonic check your perspective 318 block for the machinist to OK boring the block period. Seldom does a 318 lend itself to be able to be bored out to a 340 size. The meat in the cylinder sleeve is 99% of the time not available to go to the 4.00 mark, which is .090 overbore. Never mind another .050 in addition!
 
The overbore to 340 is attractive because you can tone it down 9.8:1, moderate solid cam, 3.91-4.10 gears, and give everything else a fit with that lightweight combination
 
Garrett Ellison said:
The overbore to 340 is attractive because you can tone it down 9.8:1, moderate solid cam, 3.91-4.10 gears, and give everything else a fit with that lightweight combination
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The .130 amount of cylinder sleeve is normally not available for this type of endeavor.
 
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