318 stroker

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sleepyswinger

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Trying to find a semi hot street 318/390 stroker combo,starting with a 4" scat forged bottom end,INDY/RHS heads with 2.02/1.60 valves,maybe some light porting ?Would like to use the mopar M1 single plans intake and have a 770 street avenger w/vac. Sec. And elec. Choke. Not sure of a cam, would like a fast idling cam 1200 to 1500 rpm ( the wow factor )power disc brakes, auto 904,will get a stall to match combo,any thoughts or questions,thanks for your help !Mike
 
not sure what you mean by a fast idling cam.....

went engine idles too fast the carb throttle blades are opened too far and the idle mixture screws do not work
 
Talk to MRL from this site. That way you can get a bolt in with no problems for you to DIY.
 
sleepyswinger said:
power disc brakes
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Mike, while a 4" stroke engine with some compression can take a lot of cam. I can't think of any that would require a true idle of 1200+ that will work with the above quote? Cams like that just don't make the vacuum required to operate them properly on anything but a "show/fairgrounds" car. I'm pretty hardcore and have run PB's with 8/9" of vacuum before.....but it's not something I would ever recommend, even with a reserve tank.

I like where your basic thinking is with the combo, but the details of what you're using it for, and the rear gear you plan on running will help the discussion among most of us here.
 
Might wanna PM member CUDACOX,I think he has a 318/402 stroker kit for sale.Do a search under his user name.
 
.090 over bore would not thrill me to much. Cant be much left to the cylinder walls
 
This was my 390 combo
1988 318 roller block .030 over
scat 4"cast crank and I beam rods
Icon pistons-IC847 9.4:1 static comp
Indy LA-X heads 1.92x1.62 valves bone stock
custom HR 516/516 237/241 @.050 on a 109 LSA in at 105
LD 340 intake with 2" open spacer
Quick fuel SS-830 carb
mopar dist with 24deg initial and 34 total
hooker 1 5/8 headers with 2.5 inch full exhaust
3500 converter
3.73 gears with 275/60/15 drag radial

This motor was in my street car F-body aspen that weighed 3600lb with me in it and ran 11.70's at 115 on pump 93. There was nothing fancy just a good combo. This car also has power steering and factory water pump which was robbing a few horsepower.

I hope this helps if you have any ?' feel free to pm me.
 
OldmanRick said:
Mike, while a 4" stroke engine with some compression can take a lot of cam. I can't think of any that would require a true idle of 1200+ that will work with the above quote? Cams like that just don't make the vacuum required to operate them properly on anything but a "show/fairgrounds" car. I'm pretty hardcore and have run PB's with 8/9" of vacuum before.....but it's not something I would ever recommend, even with a reserve tank.

I like where your basic thinking is with the combo, but the details of what you're using it for, and the rear gear you plan on running will help the discussion among most of us here.
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Very good point, Rick. Mine pulls about 11" of vacuum at idle, but I have manual brakes, so I don't care.
 
My 390 combo is as follows:

318 Magnum block
4" Eagle forged crank
Eagle Forged H-beam rods
Diamond Forged 11:1 pistons
Magnum R/T 1.92 heads pocket ported
RPM Air-Gap manifold
Flow Tech Headers
Quick Fuel 750-AN carb

Cam:
.588/.588 lift, 236/242 @ .050" (1.6:1 Magnum roller rockers)
 
I think overall it's a good plan - but - I'd spend some money and lose the power brakes. You don't need them (I prefer the pedal feel of non-power) and the idle you want is not conducive to good vacuum and power brakes. Personally - I wouldn't over cam it just for noise but it's amazing how many people actually want to. The reason they idle that way is they have no low end torque. They don't have to - they're in race cars. I'd look at a cam in the 255-260° @ .050 if you want the noise, 240°-245° @ .050 if you want a nice running & fast car.
 
Power brakes are good for when the wife wants to drive,so a cam that has good vacuum is best,are those heads to much or is there something as good for less money ?Would like to stick with a LA block ? .30 over is as far as I would go, Thanks Mike
 
Well, a good brakes cam will be smoother at idle. I like this Crane: 691191 It's a solid flat tappet, 238°/248° @ .050, .480/.500 with 1.5s on a 114 LSA. IN terms of heads - the RHS are good, but heavy, and picky in terms of the rockers you use (I hear Hughes makes the ones that work). I'm a fan or RPMs but that's just me. I think by the time either head is ready to bolt on you'll be within a few hundred bucks of each other - with RPMs being more, but also giving a huge weight savings and able to run pretty much any rocker. Look at the "RPMs are junk" thread and consider everything before you make a choice.
 
That brakes cam sounds small,maybe I should rethink power brakes,how much vacuum is needed ?Thanks all for the imput, it all helps !
 
It will only work if the block can take it. Not all 318s can and year or use have nothing to do with it. Sonic testing is the way to cut the odds against you to "0". Otherwise it's a crapshoot.
 
CUDACOX said:
Ask Indy Cylinder Head.That's where I bought the kit.They build and sell that complete engine!It must work..No?
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I guess if you don't mind boring the snot out a block for a few extra cubes. Last 318 my father did was getting thin @ .060 over. Im sure some are thick enough, but I have yet to see one. Would be a good kit for an X block on the other hand. BTW... the last Indy 402 I see was a std 4" bore 360 block. looked at them in Carlisle last July. If I did a 318 it would be a 390, leaving plenty of cylinder wall and it would be less likely to overheat. For a 402 or bigger buy a 360 or 340 block, and not have to bore the snot out of it. JMO
 
Runor has it early 360 blocks had 340 water jackets so can take a larger overbore but its a 360 to start with so 4.00 X 4.00 is a ~402. look into a mother thumper cam, all the noise, none of the bad manners.
 
swinger340 said:
I guess if you don't mind boring the snot out a block for a few extra cubes. Last 318 my father did was getting thin @ .060 over. Im sure some are thick enough, but I have yet to see one. Would be a good kit for an X block on the other hand. BTW... the last Indy 402 I see was a std 4" bore 360 block. looked at them in Carlisle last July. If I did a 318 it would be a 390, leaving plenty of cylinder wall and it would be less likely to overheat. For a 402 or bigger buy a 360 or 340 block, and not have to bore the snot out of it. JMO
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The 402 Indy had in Carlise last year was a 318.That's when I got my kit.
 
Guys...a 318 bored .030 over, and with a 4.125 stroke is also a 402 CID.
 
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