318 value

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Better photos very soon !
House restoration and other non mechanic family members projects has me behind schedule !!!

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MOPAROFFICIAL said:
More than 3.58 stroke 318/340 main would cost.
Bore size is it's handicap.
You can't fit valves in it. Though it can make power, beyond a point thats where the issue lies. So finding one you can get to 4" or more is key imo. All the big boy heads need 4"+ bore size.
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Theres always roadblocks with a 318. Fitting the big valves is one...
 
Dan the man said:
I recently found a 318, year, condition is unknown by the individual who has it. What makes it tempting is that it has a 340 intake manifold on it. It's complete except for the carburetor and distributor. The owner said make me a offer, but honestly I have no idea what to offer him. I don't think that he'll let me pull the oil pan either
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Have ever owned a 318 ?
What's the obsession ?
Have no problem with you wanting to do a 318, just people usually are doing them cause their car has one or they got one sitting around which you don't seem to have neither.

As for the 318 a couple hundred.
 
273 said:
Have ever owned a 318 ?
What's the obsession ?
Have no problem with you wanting to do a 318, just people usually are doing them cause their car has one or they got one sitting around which you don't seem to have neither.

As for the 318 a couple hundred.
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I've had four 318's. I've always liked the ones that people say that nothing can be done with them performance wise, 318willrun is a good example of what can be done with the 318's.
 
Dartswinger70 said:
Theres always roadblocks with a 318. Fitting the big valves is one...
Click to expand...
Since my personal goal is not making a bunch of power, I'm thinking around 300 @ the flywheel, but mostly improving the throttle response and low to midrange torque. I don't think that I have to be concerned about bigger valves and such. I think that port velocity will probably be more of what I need. I've read up on the use of mopars swirl port 302 heads and everything that I've read that pertains to what I'm looking at doing says that port velocity is it. Valve size has been discussed and most agree that 1.880" intake and 1.600" exhaust valves are the way to go for those heads along with a good competition valve job and bowl clean up
 
Dan the man said:
Since my personal goal is not making a bunch of power, I'm thinking around 300 @ the flywheel, but mostly improving the throttle response and low to midrange torque. I don't think that I have to be concerned about bigger valves and such. I think that port velocity will probably be more of what I need. I've read up on the use of mopars swirl port 302 heads and everything that I've read that pertains to what I'm looking at doing says that port velocity is it. Valve size has been discussed and most agree that 1.880" intake and 1.600" exhaust valves are the way to go for those heads along with a good competition valve job and bowl clean up
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2.02 will fit 3.91 bore
 
SS Lancer said:
Don't go small unless u already have valves etc
Not that u need a 2.02 to make 300 HP but they will certainly aid in your goals.
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I'm some what confused here, I've been reading as much as I can about this and from what I've read 2.02 valves hurt port velocity and that's what I read to get to my goals. The engine will probably never see more than 5,000 rpm's.
 
Dan the man said:
Since my personal goal is not making a bunch of power, I'm thinking around 300 @ the flywheel, but mostly improving the throttle response and low to midrange torque. I don't think that I have to be concerned about bigger valves and such. I think that port velocity will probably be more of what I need. I've read up on the use of mopars swirl port 302 heads and everything that I've read that pertains to what I'm looking at doing says that port velocity is it. Valve size has been discussed and most agree that 1.880" intake and 1.600" exhaust valves are the way to go for those heads along with a good competition valve job and bowl clean up
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300 hp is a very achievable goal, even with a stock untouched heads but probably need around 225-230 cam and mild cr bump, or to do it with a lot less cam need more cylinder head. My guess a 5.2l magnum with 4bbl and headers is probably only 15-25 hp shy of 300 hp. There's many ways, I'd go with the best head you can afford and or build within reason.
 
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Dan the man said:
I'm some what confused here, I've been reading as much as I can about this and from what I've read 2.02 valves hurt port velocity and that's what I read to get to my goals. The engine will probably never see more than 5,000 rpm's.
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Big valves if you want but the 2.02's probably aren't necessary for a mild Teen build. Keep those for 340, 360, and Stroker builds. Port matching and a little massaging should make more difference on a teen build.
 
Dan the man said:
I'm some what confused here, I've been reading as much as I can about this and from what I've read 2.02 valves hurt port velocity and that's what I read to get to my goals. The engine will probably never see more than 5,000 rpm's.
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Well
U can certainly achieve your goals with smaller valve u mentioned !
A good valve job and street compression with the PROPER cam will get u to your goals camshaft is the brain get the right one.
 
Dan the man said:
I'm some what confused here, I've been reading as much as I can about this and from what I've read 2.02 valves hurt port velocity and that's what I read to get to my goals. The engine will probably never see more than 5,000 rpm's.
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Cause some people think you need to strangle your engine to make torque. Aka everything tiny.
 
Just cause things help over 5000 rpm don't mean they can't also help under 5000 rpm.

I'm not recommending you to build anything like this engine but look at the power it makes between 2500 to 5000 rpm at 2700 it's already making as much or more than stock 318 by 3900 it's making more than you want by 5000 rpm it's making over 400 hp a 1000 rpms sooner than those 400 hp 318 builds, they didn't do it by strangling the engine. Obviously not saying always go big but doesn't mean you got strangle your engine either.

On The Dyno DTS Dyno Data Performance Crankshaft 323CI Small-Block Mopar
RPMTQHP
2,500337161
2,600350173
2,700357183
2,800357190
2,900356196
3,000351201
3,100345204
3,200339207
3,300343216
3,400356230
3,500371247
3,600385264
3,700396279
3,800404292
3,900410305
4,000415316
4,100418327
4,200420336
4,300422345
4,400421353
4,500420360
4,600421369
4,700425380
4,800426390
4,900427398
5,000427407
5,100427414
5,200426421
5,300425428
5,400423435
5,500421440
5,600419446
5,700417453
5,800415458
5,900412462
6,000407465
6,100401466
6,200397469
6,300393471
6,400390475
6,500386477
 
273 said:
Just cause things help over 5000 rpm don't mean they can't also help under 5000 rpm.

I'm not recommending you to build anything like this engine but look at the power it makes between 2500 to 5000 rpm at 2700 it's already making as much or more than stock 318 by 3900 it's making more than you want by 5000 rpm it's making over 400 hp a 1000 rpms sooner than those 400 hp 318 builds, they didn't do it by strangling the engine. Obviously not saying always go big but doesn't mean you got strangle your engine either.

On The Dyno DTS Dyno Data Performance Crankshaft 323CI Small-Block Mopar
RPMTQHP
2,500337161
2,600350173
2,700357183
2,800357190
2,900356196
3,000351201
3,100345204
3,200339207
3,300343216
3,400356230
3,500371247
3,600385264
3,700396279
3,800404292
3,900410305
4,000415316
4,100418327
4,200420336
4,300422345
4,400421353
4,500420360
4,600421369
4,700425380
4,800426390
4,900427398
5,000427407
5,100427414
5,200426421
5,300425428
5,400423435
5,500421440
5,600419446
5,700417453
5,800415458
5,900412462
6,000407465
6,100401466
6,200397469
6,300393471
6,400390475
6,500386477
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That's awesome. Wish I knew what combo they used
 
Dan the man said:
I'm some what confused here, I've been reading as much as I can about this and from what I've read 2.02 valves hurt port velocity and that's what I read to get to my goals. The engine will probably never see more than 5,000 rpm's.
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As you may notice not everyone agrees or puts different value on it, everyone agrees velocity is important but some super focus on this one aspect and willing to sacrifice everything else for this one component of performance.

Do you actually know how much velocity you need? Or if any of these things like 2.02 valves are exceeding this velocity, and if are is the another benefit that might out weigh this loss if there is one?
Not saying you need 2.02 but I definitely wouldn't afraid of using heads with them.
 
RAT ROD AL said:
I have 1 on the scrap trailer and another just pulled from a parts car. It's a 67 318. I think the going price is about 29 cents a ton. How many you want ?
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Wonder how many you'd need to put in a container to ship over here (Australia) at a profit?

Rebuilders sell for $1500AUD ($USD950 +) at the moment.

Send me some A518s too, and we can go into business...
 
I noticed that this post is almost 2 years old. The 318 in question is long gone. If my memory serves me right, the guy who had it wanted like $800 for it and I wasn't going to pay that much for it with out being able to inspect it. The classic car dealer who had the 318 is no longer in business, he sold everything. Last I heard he was doing one or two cars on consignment only.
 
dan, you keep worrying about port velocity and valve size and all this bullshit that won't matter one bit in what you're trying to build.

zero. nada. zip. zilch.

you're not going to buy a 318 and splash the pot for 340/360 valve heads, or edelbrocks, or anything like that.

you're looking to build a stock motor. quit spiraling down the rabbit hole of magazine builds and theoretical engine subjects rather than focusing on practical application.

i get it. really i do. research is important. but maybe just get a car first.
 
Dan the man said:
I made him a offer once but never got a solid response.
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When you see a potential good motor, you need to make a solid offer. When I did my big move a couple years ago, I had a couple early 340 motors to sell. I wanted $2500.00 each, both were low mileage rebuilds at a cost of $4,000 each. Had a few low ballers, but I held my ground. Two guys have a couple good motors now, the low ballers have no balls or motors.
 
Swinger 340 said:
When you see a potential good motor, you need to make a solid offer. When I did my big move a couple years ago, I had a couple early 340 motors to sell. I wanted $2500.00 each, both were low mileage rebuilds at a cost of $4,000 each. Had a few low ballers, but I held my ground. Two guys have a couple good motors now, the low ballers have no balls or motors.
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all this ^^^

and, on top of that, don't be a flim flammer, tire kicker, waffling, time pirate.

don't offer half, that's just rude. and be ready to pony up the dough if the deal rolls. none of that "i gotta go to the bank" or "let me move some money around" or "i get paid tuesday" horseshittery. money talks and bullshit walks, amigo.

also, be realistic. are you really going to drive 4+ hours to go get a motor? if somebody doesn't explicitly state in their add that they're willing to ship, don't nag them about shipping. and if they say they're willing to ship, the rest is on you to figure out. after it's on a pallet, it's not their problem.

on top of all of this, you don't even know if your hypothetical new car is even going to need a motor.
 
Swinger 340 said:
When you see a potential good motor, you need to make a solid offer. When I did my big move a couple years ago, I had a couple early 340 motors to sell. I wanted $2500.00 each, both were low mileage rebuilds at a cost of $4,000 each. Had a few low ballers, but I held my ground. Two guys have a couple good motors now, the low ballers have no balls or motors.
Click to expand...
The seller had no real history of the motor, he didn't know how it ran before it was pulled out of the vehicle, no idea of its actual condition and I wasn't allowed to pull a valve cover or anything. I wasn't going to pay $800 for taking a gamble. You had rebuilt motors you knew what you had. He didn't
 
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