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lead69 said:
Your vaccum advance is coming in and out,depending on your total advance curve and where it comes in,then in relation to engine vaccum.You can do alot with tuning a vaccum advance-even on a radical street car,I always run them to full vaccum port on the manifold and usually only add about 10-13 degrees to help idle and drivability and even a little better gas mileage.Its in at idle and at very low load situations but out the minute I gave it some more throttle.The vaccum advance operates by the plate being advanced by vaccum,so a fixed plate just eliminates the movement and the vaccum advance,it also gives you a rock steady platform for timing.I have to say I dont even mess with vaccum advance on my cars anymore lol,too lazy and theres no improvement in e.t. and I dont mind my car being a little nastier at low speed anyway.
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I've never thought of hooking to full vaccum. I'll try it out one day when I've got caught up.
 
You could do as you said just unhook it and run more initial and let the mechanical advance take it from there. By hooking it to a full vacuum port basically does the same thing your just eliminating the movement.
 
BJR Racing said:
You could do as you said just unhook it and run more initial and let the mechanical advance take it from there. By hooking it to a full vacuum port basically does the same thing your just eliminating the movement.
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Yeah that's the way I have it now and it works fine.

BJR I'm going to build a 360 stroker as I PMed you before but was wondering if you had a recipe for a 360 like you do the above 318.
 
Yep sure do,
KB 107 pistons
587 heads fully ported with 1.88 and 1.60 valves
heads flow 285 @ .500 int.
198 cfm's exh @ .500
168cc intake runner
M-1 intake manifold
Comp. cams .540 lift 255 @ .050 duration
1.5 roller rockers
1 7/8 hedders
heads cut .040 on the deck and .050 on the intake face
timing set at 35* total @ 2500 rpms


I would do the same in your stroker engine, it's just getting the right pistons for your stroke.
 
BJR Racing said:
Yep sure do,
KB 107 pistons
587 heads fully ported with 1.88 and 1.60 valves
heads flow 285 @ .500 int.
198 cfm's exh @ .500
168cc intake runner
M-1 intake manifold
Comp. cams .540 lift 255 @ .050 duration
1.5 roller rockers
1 7/8 hedders
heads cut .040 on the deck and .050 on the intake face
timing set at 35* total @ 2500 rpms


I would do the same in your stroker engine, it's just getting the right pistons for your stroke.
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Wow I hear ya!

Do you know what horses it will produce?
 
Hey Bobby,

I notice in a lot of your builds you go with the 1.88 intake valves, even in the higher HP engines. In your opinion, when would 2.02 or bigger valves be an asset? You and I have talked about the fact that I have 2.02 valves in my Magnum heads and you think they actually hurt them a little. I am just curious about the size of the intakes in relation to the port velocity or lack thereof.

Jack
 
Jack,
Generally a larger valve is needed when the RPM's go up and a 2.02 valve doesnt really help til you get up to 7000 or higher. And as for flow they actually loose flow in the low lifts where most people really need it up to .500 lift. So the small valves are the better choice and this is why I use them as I dont turn my engines over 6500 RPMs anyway. And most of the time they only see 6000 RPMs.
 
BJR Racing said:
Jack,
Generally a larger valve is needed when the RPM's go up and a 2.02 valve doesnt really help til you get up to 7000 or higher. And as for flow they actually loose flow in the low lifts where most people really need it up to .500 lift. So the small valves are the better choice and this is why I use them as I dont turn my engines over 6500 RPMs anyway. And most of the time they only see 6000 RPMs.
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Both Mopar and Edlebrock have 2.02 intake valves far as bolt on heads. The difference are 63cc or 65cc. They don't have 1.88 intake valves far as searching through Summit.
 
mullinax95,
They are the factory valves as you know in the late 340 and all 360 heads. The factory valves are good as long as you keep the spring pressures reasonable. I've been buying them for about $10.00 ea. from the aftermarket suppliers, and they seem to be a better quality piece than what they use to have. And I dont have and havent had any problems with them so far, but I'm sure theres always a first time.
 
BJR Racing said:
mullinax95,
They are the factory valves as you know in the late 340 and all 360 heads. The factory valves are good as long as you keep the spring pressures reasonable. I've been buying them for about $10.00 ea. from the aftermarket suppliers, and they seem to be a better quality piece than what they use to have. And I dont have and havent had any problems with them so far, but I'm sure theres always a first time.
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I was refering to heads that are for sale on Summit. They only have 2.02 heads. When I build (I really don't know exactly when because of $$$) my 360 it looks like I will have to do lots of work to the stock heads. IF I get the 1.88 heads with the long block in which I hope to find. I have or had a chance to get a 73 360 here recently but didn't have the money. I'm not to far from you which I live in Anderson SC so you might be the one to work on the motor. LOL.
 
That sounds good to me heck I can come and get it if you would like. Finding the heads around here is a bit of a challange also that are unmolested, but I tend to come up with them when needed. The same with engines.
 
You ever thought about the cheap mopar 3.51" cranks on ebay,,cheap way to go 342" with a .030" 318..this gives a steel crank on the cheap with added stroke,,wayne
 
Wayne,
I havent seen them and was just on E-Bay looking for cranks.
With one of these cranks and a 1.72 compression height piston and you would be somewhere around 10:1 or better, as I havent calulated it but should be close and then if it's more use the open chamber heads and get what you want.
 
waynebo,
Most pistons can be cut .200 at the deepest point but you'll have to measure the difference from the bottom of the piston to the top of the piston to start with. Generally .200 is the safe point for racing or street and .250 - .300 depending on the piston material for supercharged or turbo engines. This should be the thickness thats left in the valve relief in the pistons.
 
pulled a 318 out of a 73 coronet yesterday and tore it down tonight. Unmolested, bearings still stamped 5/72. I also found a 86 dippy with a 318 at the same yard, so I'm going back to get those heads if they're 302's. I think the 322 is the way to go for my dart's next engine, and I hope to make it run as good as the 360 that's in it now. I don't suppose there are any porting templates for the 302 heads, are there? And if want to turn it to 7000, should I look for some 308 heads off a 360? Thanks Bobby for the great tech stuff.
 
66,
The 302's will go 7000 on a 318 engine with some work done to them, mine can do it easy, but it only makes power to 6500 so the need to go to 7000 isnt needed. But this is more of a combination of parts thats the restriction than heads. The limiting factor being the cam.
 
Of there 302 heads port work,the bowls,intake and exhaust ports?I would post some pics of my work,but im an ametuer,learning as i go,i am alredy getting ragged pretty hard by the professional porters that i dont know what im doing,but my motors seem to run good to me.Im sure there is room for improvement on what im doing,but the pros arent gonna help,in fear of losing some money,or they just dont want to offer there expertise.I think,in fact i will post pictures of my prot work,and once the car goes down the track,ill post my ets,and let you guys decide if i know what im doing is worth it or not.
 
Hey I really like this 322 build you did. I plan on doing a similar build only using pump gas only I have not decided on a few things yet, like maybe to make a stroker. I already had 302 Heads running on my car right now, and they are basically factory with very mild port work that I did myself. Anyway How much would you charge to port my heads to the specs that you did on the 322 build? Or do you know anyone out here in California that knows about this stuff enough to sucessfully port them because shipping back and forth would be quite a lot. Also I was thinking about using a forged 273 crank(If I could find one), around 10.5:1+ compression and maybe a slightly bigger cam to run pump gas and just stretch the power band to ~6500-7000, which I kinda perfer anyway. Am I on the right track??
 
DB52,
The cost of porting the heads would be about $1,300.00 but this includes a valve job, setting up the spring heights, surfacing the heads on both the deck and intake sides, flow bench porting and seals. The springs are extra as everyone uses a different cam and the springs need to match the cam, and theres not one spring fits all. Also allow 3-5 weeks to get them done, depending on how busy I am at the time. PM me if you need more info.
 
how do these ported 302 compare to unported edelbrocks obviously ones a close and ones a open chamber but I was curious about the flowing aspect
 
1 moparman, welcome aboard.

Each head has it's place and would do well on certain displacements over the other one.

If your in the middle of a build, give a quick listing of whats going on with it.
(Specs specs specs specs !!! )

The Edelbrock heads unported should be able to handle a (.060 over 360 ) 372 inch engine preety well.
 
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