340/360 intake choice for high 11s

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LXguy said:
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Is that your handiwork?
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Yes about 25 hours worth, milled divider, & plenum wall work, plenum to runner transition worked, corners radius, gasket matched etc.. etc...
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
Yes about 25 hours worth, milled divider, & plenum wall work, plenum to runner transition worked, corners radius, gasket matched etc.. etc...
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Thats exactly what my stock ported intake looks like. I have alot of time into it, but not much $$. Its on my super low budget 318 and runs really well.
 
goint to use this on a stock appearing 340 stoker or maybe stock stroke, still a few years away, Anyway the real bottleneck in my opinion is the exh manifolds and not the intake
 
Locomotion said:
OEM cast iron intakes can run in the 10's in the "Stock" class!
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While the tricks employed to do so are interesting and very probably, an able person could do at home, the rest of the combo is not what most people would do or call street freindly like the high converter, rear gear and cubic inch size increase. This is more than likely something over there head and/or to deep for there pockets.

Though I love the idea......... MOney issue are my short fall for such things.
 
EL5DEMON340 said:
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I would go back and cut that sharp edge off the dividers. This is probably not what you want. You need air to easily run back and fourth from runner to runner. There are pulses caused by valve opening and closure events as well as piston speed changes that change the speed of air needed to go by the valve. It would be different if 2&4, 6&8, 1&3, 5&7's valves opened together as the air would travel from the plenum to both runners together making a sharp divider necessary. It just does not work that way. The pulses in the intake manifold follow the firing order of your engine. 5&7 are 90 degrees apart this is as close as it gets. More air flow can be acheived if you have nothing that causes spikes in the airflow.

Not claiming to be an intake manifold guru but, this is something you do not want to do.

Leon
 
leon441 said:
i would go back and cut that sharp edge off the dividers. This is probably not what you want. You need air to easily run back and fourth from runner to runner. There are pulses caused by valve opening and closure events as well as piston speed changes that change the speed of air needed to go by the valve. It would be different if 2&4, 6&8, 1&3, 5&7's valves opened together as the air would travel from the plenum to both runners together making a sharp divider necessary. It just does not work that way. The pulses in the intake manifold follow the firing order of your engine. 5&7 are 90 degrees apart this is as close as it gets. More air flow can be acheived if you have nothing that causes spikes in the airflow.

Not claiming to be an intake manifold guru but, this is something you do not want to do.

Leon
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el5demon340 said:
yep in stock form they are week, i put a lot of work into mine also, they also have core shift and the runners needed a bunch of work to "line up"
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ok
 
This may be a dumb question, but what benefit is cutting out the center divider?
 
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