340 build No POWER need help w tune

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Huh ford guy. Confused with that comment. I guess I'm just not in the mood for jokes.
There's no vac. Advance because for one. My engine builder ( who is very very reputable) said ditch it.
And secondly my new MSD pro billet dist Dosent even have one.

My 3rd mopar build. Never had this much trouble tuneing one in. But like I said this engine is more radical then the previous.
 
340Duster247 said:
Huh ford guy. Confused with that comment. I guess I'm just not in the mood for jokes.
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#1 cylinder on Fords it on the right side of the motor, Not the left like mopars. He just wanted to make sure you have the timing light on the right wire.
 
AdamR said:
You said it doesnt spin the tires which isnt a surprise seeing your running 315-60-15 M/T drag radials. Isnt that they idea behind them ? Throw some 215-70-14s street tires on it and see how it spins them.

How does it pull once you get moving ?

Also, Send the TCI converter back and save for a good one. Dynamic, Turbo Action, Ultimate etc.
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agreed on the converter! TCI is junk, i havn't heard people even having luck with the rebuild kits!

i'll throw in Edge for converters

crackedback said:
Are you an old ford guy?

Is the timing light attached to the most forward plug on drivers side?
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boy FABO is clicking tonite! i was going there or MSD like AdamR said
 
It is not that TCI converters are as said JUNK....it is because you basically bought a off the shelf converter...that was build for who knows what....

unless the converter is made for your car....engine size...cam..carb...weight...gearing.....

then it is going to be Junk...you always hear ...I bought a 3000 rpm converter......stalls 3k behind what?...a 440..a /6...
 
I had my 340 timed this way;
Mr. Gasket fast advance springs in stock Mopar distributor, vacuum advance disabled, timing set for full advance (1500+). When my tuner first told me to try this I was skeptical. Until I saw how well it worked...
 
Captainkirk said:
I had my 340 timed this way;
Mr. Gasket fast advance springs in stock Mopar distributor, vacuum advance disabled, timing set for full advance (1500+). When my tuner first told me to try this I was skeptical. Until I saw how well it worked...
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it how we do our hemi's and how i did my slant... my slant is all in after cranking
 
I'm no wizard when it comes to tuning but could you have used the wrong keyway on the timing gear crank sprocket. It's really easy to get the multi keyways mixed up.
 
Sorry cracked never looked to see it was you that posted that. Thought it was one of Thoes posters that just adds there "funny" 2cents that Dosent help at all

Just wanna make it clear to everyone I'm on the right number 1
 
don't think your engine or any other small block with run with 55 degrees of initial advance......because then you have the mechanical advance that is build into the distributor that will add additional advance as the engine is rev up.....giving you around 70 degrees or so total....
 
340Duster247 said:
Can you please tell me how " I check my timing light"
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check to make sure your on #1 plug
check on a bone stock something and see if its where its supposed to be
try another timing light

for where ever reason timing lights are very troubling and can cause all kinda of head aches...

also just a quickie pull number one plug, rotate motor to TDC compression (stick a thin dowel in and wait for the stick to stop moving). then check the balancer to make sure its at 0* TDC and see where the rotor in the distributor is in relation to tower number one.

pics would be great and write what you find.
 
70aarcuda said:
don't think your engine or any other small block with run with 55 degrees of initial advance......because then you have the mechanical advance that is build into the distributor that will add additional advance as the engine is rev up.....giving you around 70 degrees or so total....
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Yah I know. That's what boggles my mind and were trying to figure out.
 
what harmonic balancer are you using.?

and it is possible that the outer ring has spun?
 
805moparkid said:
check to make sure your on #1 plug
check on a bone stock something and see if its where its supposed to be
try another timing light

for where ever reason timing lights are very troubling and can cause all kinda of head aches...

also just a quickie pull number one plug, rotate motor to TDC compression (stick a thin dowel in and wait for the stick to stop moving). then check the balancer to make sure its at 0* TDC and see where the rotor in the distributor is in relation to tower number one.

pics would be great and write what you find.
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Thanks. We double checked today. All good
 
340Duster247 said:
Thanks. We double checked today. All good
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put the stock one back in for now... do you know the curve of the stocker? start out with initial at 18* and see what happens. as said dont rev it to high as we dont know where your total is yet
 
Don't know the curve On stock one. I feel like I'm going backwards. I was just told last week my problem was the factory distributer and I had to get my new one and change the springs to what I have now.
I was told there is no way I can use my stock dist. to time it correctly with that camshaft.
 
340Duster247 said:
Don't know the mech. On stock one. I feel like I'm going backwards. I was just told last week my problem was the factory distributer and I had to get my new one and change the springs to what I have now.
I was told there is no way I can use my stock dist. to time it correctly with that camshaft.
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well they are idiots... we use stock dizzy's in 9 second/775hp race hemi's...

also notice how the stock dizzy lines up? so who's the idiot? you can have a stock one recurved very easy...
 

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340Duster247 said:
Don't know the curve On stock one. I feel like I'm going backwards. I was just told last week my problem was the factory distributer and I had to get my new one and change the springs to what I have now.
I was told there is no way I can use my stock dist. to time it correctly with that camshaft.
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you can use the stock...just need to limit the mechanical advance in it so you can dial in more initial advance....you have to weld up the slots...

i think some people gave you links on how to do it also...

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/engine/mopp_0301_mopar_electronic_ignition_system/
 
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